http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=468906

As stated. Any comment on this model year and price?
thanks,
will

3.0 w/CIS is a good motor. Need to see maintenance records. Price is a little high. I'd offer about $10k and go up to $10.5k (assuming everything checks out).

I paid $12k for my '79 w/136k mi.:

wow. now that is a beautiful car. what shoudl I look for in this model year?

Will,

I have owned a number (7) 911’s and in this series I had a 78SC,79SC 81SC and currently have a great 86 Carrera Cab, with 67,000 miles.

I know money may be a very big concern here but I would look for an 84 Carrera or any Carrera that you can afford. I say 84 because that was the 1st year of the standard line up for all 911 as Carreras and you may get the best deal on one. You still need the right car or you have no deal. You must get it CKed out real good because if you need an Engine it may cost you 5,000 -8,000 to get rebuild it if you do not do the work. Not to scare you but these are just the realities of the 3.2.

Look on EBay at closed auctions starting with 84 Porsche Carrera. Highest first and work your way down and see what has sold. Just to look. Some times there are card that have very low documented miles. It may be more that you can spend and if that is so then look at SC and look for the lowest mile car with the best history with the least BS.

One closed on Jun 21st for $13,500. For an 84 Carrera with 91,000 Miles Says Stunning Example of A Porsche. You get the idea., A 84 with 50,000 Miles Buy it now $18,000.

For $18,000. You can get a 86 car. Work it.

Bob

Biggest (common) problem is broken head studs. Not sure if they went to the Carrera type chain tensioners by '80. Those would be a plus. There are typical leaks. Compression/leakdown is a must. Generally, the 3.0 is a very solid motor if maintained properly (regular oil changes & valve adjustments). CIS is reliable, but when it goes bad, expect to spend $$$. However, unlike my MFI, parts are readily available.

thanks for the info Bob.

the guy offfered it to me for 10k. I wanted to get it checked out first as you stated. here is what he said about the car:
"It does leak a little oil. I have had the same oil pan in my garage for the last two years and it has very minimal. There have been no accidents or any signs of rust. The body and pan are galvanized so there is little chance of rust ever occurring. The motor is very solid. I just tunned it up a couple months ago and it is running very strong. I don't know if you have experience with the 915 transmission but it tends to be a bit "notchy". I replaced the shift bushings a year or so ago. The only negative that I can say about the transmission is that I do have to "double clutch" to get it into first gear occasionally"

I like to get it to Ottos in venice so he can do complete check up on it.
If things check out good, 10k is not a bad price, right?

$10k is good. But, like Bob said, buy the best car you can afford. A newer car with lower miles for $6k ~ $8k more will save you that much (or more) in repairs. Rebuilding a 911 tranny/clutch is about $4k.

I lucked out...I got an 80SC Targa with only 80k miles on it, no rust (needed a paint job) for $8500. The deals are out there if you take the time and look (I looked for about a year).

Jim

p.s. here it is now repainted and a few metal goodies added to the sides...that all added about another 8k to my investment price!

Ditto on the broken headstud problem. Have them pull the valve covers during PPI to check for it. One of the reasons so many 911s with 125K - 150K miles are for sale is the reality of a $6-8K engine rebuild.

There is thruth to the quote: They are all 20K cars. You either pay up front or later.

Below is a pic of my old 78SC, Heidi. Sold to TRE Motorsports in N. Hollywood. It was rumored to be used for a new TV pilot with Holly Hunter as a private detective.

Ulrich

I have hade a bag of M&M of 911 of colors. My 1978 -911SC in 1981 was the red /cork like Ulrichs. The truth is if Otto’s can do a complete CK up on it and gives you a clean bill of health and you put a back fire valve on the CIS box (I forgot to mention this) you should be good to go. If he says no than it is no. You must hear him. $10,000. Is not bad at all if the car is a good one and does not give you problems. Ottos can only CK so much, past that there is some element of luck, but he will see a bad one for sure.

My 1st. Porsche I bought was a 73 T Very nice super clean car but it had just a few very (6) dots of rust at the bottom of the doors. I was young and the man looking the car over said to stay away from the car because it was from NY. He was a wrench from NY. It all CKed out fine on the tests and it ran great. I bought it. 5,000 miles it got a rod nock. No reason. The point I am making is things can happen even if compression tests are good. The wrench said I told you so. No one can predict a rod nock coming in 5,000 miles. The fuel pump went out also.

At 24 a bought a $9,500 car and then I had to rebuild the engine 5,000 miles later. My world was turned upside-down. This was 30 years ago and my parts and machine work was around $4,000. As a turned the T into an S. I build the Engine myself. I was strapped to buy the car. Then the $4,000.

Parts are very expensive. I just had my Carrera Serviced. Needed to change the A/C to the new Freon type/ change the oil/ trans fluid/ brake fluid/ filters/ had a leak in the front a/c cooler $1,300.


This 86 Carrera 67,000 miles. I paid $18,500. Needed to do $3,000 in work to primo it out. Carpet/ Faded, top replace, Stereo, Refinish wheels, Dented Valance, 930s Steering wheel.

Bob