ok, set aside some time tomorrow to polish my 2.0 fuchs, which many people have told me need it (thanks all)

I used the search function, and couldnt find too much...so, what is the best way??? I dont want to remove the anodizing, so should I go with the "mothers" power ball, and metal polish, or the actual mothers wheel polish??? I want the non-anodized parts to be nice and chrome(y)

thanks all in advance.... -JON

can't polish the wheels without removing the anodizing...

it coats and protects the alloy....

to polish you need to remove the anodizing to get to the metal to use abrasives and polishing compounds on the actual alloy...



If you are talking about just the rim and paddles, then you can use sand paper, depending on the depth of any scratches.

I used started with 800 grit sand paper, used some scuff pads, 1000 grit, 1200 grit, 1500 grit and then lots of metal polish with a buffer.

i currently have this stuff on my shelf... Click to view attachment

could i use this with the mothers powerball, just to get it on there (easier than by hand) ??? thanks -JON

I know search will turn up fuchs polishing stuff...

Like this:

yes, that was what I used with my buffer...but depending on how bad your wheels are you may not see much improvement just using polishing cream, with or with out the power ball.

Any tips on removing paint from the recessed areas? What about media blasting?

I guess my question would be how to remove the anodizing. You will polish yourself to death without progress trying to get through it...

The recessed area is not painted. It is anodized also but because the underlying metal has a different finish, it appears to be a different color.

Paul

paul i believe he's talking about wheels that have been painted black

try some brake clean it took the paint right off a set i had

Or, he could fly me out there to bleed his brakes. That's ALWAYS good for lost paint in my hands!!!!!

Paul

Yup, that's what I was talking about. Thanks for the tip.

BTW, how DO you remove the anodizing if you wanted to polish them? Chemical strip process similar to removing chrome?

I found a link that tells DIY'ers how to remove and re-anodize aluminum parts.

http://www.atmsite.org/contrib/Newman/anodize/

Looks like lye will remove it. Another site said to use caustic soda.

Sounds like some pretty nasty stuff to be messing with and the need for a big ass tank to put it in.

Or oven cleaner, which I think is basically lye.

I would send the wheels to Al Reed. Pretty tough to beat his work for the $ Unless you are a stubborn DIY'er.

I also think you can get through some of the layer with the wheel etching compounds at your FLAPS. It's for nonanodized wheels. Try it on the back of a wheel first to see how (un)happy you are...

Also, search:

+refinishing +fuchs

on this site's engine. Brings up lots of good threads about individual experiences.

Paul

So does...

+polish* +fuch*

...and if you search for these terms in titles only...

You could also try +anodiz*

When I did a set I just sanded through the anodize that was pretty messed up anyway.
removed all the nicks and gouges and then polished them up. about 4 hours per wheel.

Just in case you were to pay someone to do them, I started investigating. Prices are what I found recently from communication but obviously I cannot speak for the individual vendors!

jamagro@juno.com
sales@magrowheels.com
Magro is a member of this site. Really easy to talk to, great reputation. He's done many of the Fuchs 914 wheels. I believe he polishes the spokes and paints the background a color similar to the patina of the original.

Al Reed's Polishing, Inc
3010 E Coronado St Ste A
Anaheim, CA , 92806-2615
Phone: 714-632-3907
FAX: 714-632-8101
Al has a great reputation, very friendly on the phone also. Will do anodization for 130 per wheel.

Weidman's Wheels
Harvey and Sue Weidman
1675 Wyandotte Ave
Oroville, CA 95966
530 - 534 - 7903
Harvey's a perfectionist and assures me the wheels will look exactly like the original. Has some type of dual anodization process, goes through twice. Says other processes involve ?media blasting? the new anodization in the background to get the different finish. And he spends lots of time on the spare because you're constantly looking at the back of it. 300 per wheel.

Wheel Enhancement
5901 Blackwelder Street •
Culver City, CA 90232 •
(310) 836-8908 •
Fax: (310) 836-8924
Formerly Robert Wood. Hard to find out that they even DO wheels on the website, seem to be much more interested in selling new wheels. But, I did speak to a gentleman on the phone on a Saturday who seemed quite knowledgeable. Yes, the reanodize and it's 240 per wheel.

Damn! Makes me wish I could just go and paint a set of Mahles!

Paul

Dan, those wheels look nice. Do you have a closeup pic? Did you also do the background or just the spokes?

Paul

I only worked on the paddles and the rim...left the anodized part alone...came out pretty nice for a total time of about 4+ hours for all 4 wheels

and

not as nice as the professionals job, but for the time and money I spent to do them for a track car, they are just fine.
If I were to do them again, which I probably will do in the winter, I will spend more time on each wheel and use some heavier compound on the wheels after the sanding before I go to the metal cream (polish)
here they are on the car.