Hi All.

I just thought I would share this experience with everyone.

I was experiencing the problem of frequently touching reverse when I shifted from either 1st to 2nd or from 3rd to 2nd. It was very annoying especially when I was doing a quick down shift and sometimes would hit reverse hard evern though I thought I was being careful.

I read on one of the forums that Weltmeister sells a kit, the Shift Lockout Kit, will help fix the problem so I decided to give it a shot.

Well, I got the kit that consists of a drill bit (specially designed to cut through the very hard metal that makes up the reverse lock-out plate), two springs, to shafts for the springs, and some instructions.


What the kit does is add two more springs to the two existing spring in the shift assembly.

At first I didn't realize that I had to drill holes in my shifter assembly but I quickly got over that and following the intructions started marking off 1/2" inside from the existing spring locations on all four locations.

I then set up my drill and proceeded to drill the holes. The first hole went well only having to penetrate the stamped metal of the shifter housing, the second hole I made it through the housing and thanks to the special drill bit supplied cut through the harded metal.

I decided to stop there and install the spring and shaft into the newly created holes. This was a problem. The instructions say "press the spring on the shaft...it's going to be hard..."

It was hard. So hard in fact it was impossible. Was I discouraged? Read on.

I had to build a special spring compressor tool to get the job done. I went to the local hardware store with my spring and sourced out a bolt that would fit down the center of the spring.

I then go a nut that would fit on the end of the bolt with a washer.

I cut off the end to the bold so all that was left was a threaded shaft.

I bought a bunch of e-clamps to fit over the bolts threads.

The spring compressor works like so:

I put the bolt through the hole I just drilled, put the nut /washer on the end outside the shifter harness/plate.
I then put the spring over the bolt then pushed an e-clamp onto the bolt through the spring at the very end. The e-clamp secures the spring to the bolt.

I then started to tighten up the nut at the other end which compressed the spring. I had to make sure that the bolt didn't rotate other wise the e-clamp would screw itself off.

After some tightening the spring compressed enought to fit into the space between the two holes. Now I took a pair of pliers and removed the e-clamp (make sure the spring lines up with the holes ).

At this point I carefully slide in the shaft that came with the kit and at-the-same-time removed the bolt . This has to be done at the same time otherwise the spring will buckle and snap out causing one to start the whole process again.

So, after that I got one spring in it started to drill the other two remaining holes to put the spring in. To my suprise the drill bit that came with the kit had broken. The special cutting edge that was bonded to the rest of the drill bit had snapped off and was useless.

I didn't think this was a big deal and went to get another drill bit, a carbon super duper cutter. Well it cut through the normal metal but not the hardened steel. I was pissed!!

I couldn't do anything at the time to get the rest of the kit installed so I put my car together with half the kit in and tried it out.

What a difference it makes!! I highly recommend this kit. Even with half the kit in I don't touch reverse at all and my shifts are way better. I was skeptical at first but the trouble is worth it.

BTW. I phone the kit supplier and they sent a replacement bit and I installed the second spring.

It's great. No more vague shifts at all.

I just thought I would share my experience and help out anyone if they were planning to do this very cool and cannot-be-without addition to the 914 shifter.

Tools neeeded: Electric drill, pliers, stuff to disassemble the shifting parts.

Regards.
Olav

Olav, had you posted this story before on the PP BBS? I swear I've read it before, or a story just like it.

Yes, I posted it on Rennlist but I didn't think it got that much exposure.

I thought it was valueable enough to post again here so I edited it and did a follow up on my ongoing experience with the kit installed.

I thought it might be a candidate for a DIY project.

I could take pictures of the spring compressor etc. if it generates any interest.

- Olav

With some photo's you could submit it as a tech article. I'd like to see your compressor. I made the mistake if taking my shifter apart once. I almost tossed it out and bought a used one.

Sure, I'll take some pictures of the spring compressor and the various parts.

I'll have to visit the hardware store to get the official names of the bits and pieces too.

I'd like to hear/see more too.

I actually have this issue with my current shifter. The trans and entire linkage has been gone thru and is as good as it ever was or will be (in stock 901 form). But I have 3 shifters and the one in the car now definitely has very weak springs.

I remember that even the standard springs, when they're in decent shape, are a real beotch to remove & replace. Mostly replace. I can only imagine what stiffer ones are like to get installed.

My 1/15 event coming up is on a big track (minimal 2nd gear use) but I would definitely love to get the springs installed before my next short-track event. There are lots of 3rd-to-2nd downshifts at the Streets of Willow.

I was having some of the same problems discussed earlier in the thread. I took a page from John Larson and changed out the rev. lock out plate.
#901-424-017-00 $14.60.
Made a huge difference. I did refresh all of the bushings and I am very happy with the way it shifts and haven't had anymore touching reverse on a down shift.
Craig C. Laughlin CAMP 914

Yep. The plate wears out. Great article Olav. Let me know when your ready to do the suspension. I'm open after this weekend (brother is getting married in Morgan Hill on Sat.)

B

No doubt refreshing the shifters parts, essentially rebuilding it ,plus changing the bushings will help enormously.

Eventually, after about 30 years all those parts get tired and need freshening up.

The springs get weak, the lock out plate gets worn, the bushings get cracked from a lot of use over the years.

I found the springs just push/pull the shifter right to the middle without having to "steer" it to the desired slot/gear.

I'll look into freshening up my lock out plate too and see what effect that has.

Brad,

I'm ready, I got all the parts together. The weather needs to hold out though. Jan 18/19 would be great for me.

- Olav

Put it on your calender for that weekend.

B

Olav,

Nice write up!
we'll use it for the tech-articles section of this site
thanks

Jeroen

Thanks guys.

I'll post some pictures of the spring compressor this weekend.

I might be useful.

Olav

Nice write up. I too would like to see pics of your spring compressor. One question though; do you have a tail or side shifter tranny?

That's kinda personal isn't it?

Well, since we're all friends here, I have a side shifter.

Conversion by "Brad".

Were there ever photos posted for this process? I'm having trouble finding any tech article write up.

to simplify things a bit, you can just swap out the stouter kit springs for the stock ones. no need to layout and drill new holes. do inspect the lockout plate for wear along the contact edge. it should be straight. don't use the old bushings that cradle the ball on the shifter. new ones are relatively cheap.

k

That sounds a much simpler. Is it necessary to actually remove the shifter to replace the lockout springs? What about the lockout plate? Is there a photo anywhere of this set up so I can see what to expect when I get in there?

Thanks for the info.

My method for getting the springs in was pretty easy. I put the spring up against one of the holes, and inserted the shaft 2-3 coils into the spring. Then I bent the spring upward into a U shape, so the other end of the spring lined up with the hole on the other side. I then inserted the tail end of the drill bit into that hole, and up 2-3 coils of the spring. This way you have both ends of the spring help by "pins". I was then able to push down on the U part of the spring, and push the shaft in. The spring kind of pops down as the shaft goes through. Then use the shaft to push the drill bit out, and you are all set. This was the easiest way I could find to get the spring in, and keep it from flying across the room.

Just followed this technique today and also used Banger's method which made the install a breeze. But since the car only had 65K original miles, the new springs made little to no difference. Perhaps if I had drilled the new holes and doubled up on the springs there would have been a significant difference. Hard to say since kinking reverse was never a real issue. My goal was to have the shift lever automatically home in the 2-3 gear plane like Siene. It was not to be.