Full Version: Hand cranking 4 cyl
So today I did all the fluid changes and stuff to see if my 72 914 would turn over. got a new battery and all that good stuff. Turn they key and nothing happens but a click from the starter. Doesnt sound like it is trying to turn or anything. Is there anyway to hand crank the engine while still in the car to be sure it isnt locked up??
Put it in Fifth gear and turn the wheel with one wheel in the air. DON'T have the ignition on! 
QUOTE(JPB @ Jul 15 2007, 05:26 PM) 
Put it in Fifth gear and turn the wheel with one wheel in the air. DON'T have the ignition on!
Tried this the other wheel spins the other way. and the engine does not turn. Tried in 5, 1 and R Ill put the other one down and try again.
I think you have to spin the wheel with only ONE wheel in the air. sounds like you have both up off the ground.
Good Luck
Good Luck
Yup Yup Yup. Only one wheel in the air brother.
WOOHOO!!! ENGINE ISNT SEIZED!!! Engine turns by rotating the wheel!
So next step is to find out why the click rather than a wrrrrrrrrr
Two possibilities. Power loss through the cct because of contact resistance or problems with the starter/solenoid. The brute force method of testing the starter is the 'Screwdriver trick' You should be able to find threads detailing it by searching '+starter +screwdriver'
Basicly you use a screwdriver to short between the main starter power supply (big red wire) and the solenoid wire (smaller wire).
Somewhat more elegant approach is to use a volt meter to measure the voltage between the yellow wire and ground. Compare that when cranking to the voltage across the battery when cranking.
One of the standard responses to this situation is to remove the groundstrap from the transmission to the body and clean the connections. Ditto from the body to the battery. Corrosion here can limit the current flow to the solenoid/starter. That is what the voltage measurements effectively check
Two possibilities. Power loss through the cct because of contact resistance or problems with the starter/solenoid. The brute force method of testing the starter is the 'Screwdriver trick' You should be able to find threads detailing it by searching '+starter +screwdriver'
Basicly you use a screwdriver to short between the main starter power supply (big red wire) and the solenoid wire (smaller wire).
Somewhat more elegant approach is to use a volt meter to measure the voltage between the yellow wire and ground. Compare that when cranking to the voltage across the battery when cranking.
One of the standard responses to this situation is to remove the groundstrap from the transmission to the body and clean the connections. Ditto from the body to the battery. Corrosion here can limit the current flow to the solenoid/starter. That is what the voltage measurements effectively check
screwdriver trick
I'd suggest cleaning the grounds and connections first... then go to any other method. Even on jack-stands, I'm a bit wary of starting the car that way with my head beneath it. Try the low-risk stuff first. 
Besides, cleaning grounds and connections is just good preventative maintenance.
Besides, cleaning grounds and connections is just good preventative maintenance.
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