I've got a minimal set of hand tools, just enough to do some maintenance on the 944 over the years. Now I'm getting into the 914 and looking to do more work on the car myself -- think suspension work, engine rebuild, etc.
Are Snap-On or SK tools worth the money for a non-professional? Are an assload of Craftsman tools good enough, especially if you can walk into Sears on a Sunday and leave with a replacement? Better to mix and match groups, sockets and wrenches from here, but use these guys for pliers and this other brand for cutters?
I'm also looking for a solid floor jack w/ low clearance and good lift height. Are those fancy-pants $600 models at Pelican worth it, or is the $150 deal good enough?
I'm not awash in money or anything, I just want to figure out what to shoot for as I try to populate the garage in manageable chunks.
Thanks!
Full Version: What tools would you buy?
You'll have a hard time beating the value and quality of Craftsman. Snap-On are great tools, but $$$.
I don't know about those low profile/high lift jacks, but they do look nice. Again, though you can get by with less.
I don't know about those low profile/high lift jacks, but they do look nice. Again, though you can get by with less.
Get by with less, spend money on a compressor and a nice 1/2 impact gun. The impact gun is the most important tool in my garage. Ingersol Rand TI 2135 will get the job done dont settle for less I went through 3 different impact guns before I found the TI 2135.
...so many torque specifications....is there a torque wrench that cover everything from oil drain plug to lug bolts...etc.
Craftsman tools are more than enough for the backyard mechanic wannabe.
I've found out that in order to work in the engine bay of a 914 you need itsy bitsy girlie man hands which i dont have so I need creative use of wobble extensions, flex head ratchets, universal sockets to get at all the tight spots. Nothing wrong with mixing brands, ive even got harbor freight junk wrenches that i grind or modify to get at hard to reach areas, wouldnt want to do that to a 50$ snap on thats for sure.
The uber expensive floor jacks are not worth the money imho. just make sure your jackstands are excellent quality.
I've found out that in order to work in the engine bay of a 914 you need itsy bitsy girlie man hands which i dont have so I need creative use of wobble extensions, flex head ratchets, universal sockets to get at all the tight spots. Nothing wrong with mixing brands, ive even got harbor freight junk wrenches that i grind or modify to get at hard to reach areas, wouldnt want to do that to a 50$ snap on thats for sure.
The uber expensive floor jacks are not worth the money imho. just make sure your jackstands are excellent quality.
For sockets wrenches and things with no moving parts get craftsman. There is nothing better than a snap on ratchet. Use one for a day and you will never go back. Ive had mine for years and never had to get it replaced or repaired and I use it everyday at work. Worth every bit of $75.00
I have a Craftsmen manual torque wrench. You don't have to worry about getting it calibrated on a regular basis and it is much less $$$$.
You can't get a torque wrench that goes all the way down to ~ 10 ft/lbs and all the way up to 100 usually. It's too broad to be accurate at both ends.
You can't get a torque wrench that goes all the way down to ~ 10 ft/lbs and all the way up to 100 usually. It's too broad to be accurate at both ends.
QUOTE(jaminM3 @ Jul 17 2007, 10:30 AM) 
You can't get a torque wrench that goes all the way down to ~ 10 ft/lbs and all the way up to 100 usually. It's too broad to be accurate at both ends.
I figured as much...thanks.
Most of my tools are Snap-On, the quality is really good, however, they can be expense. If you talk to the Snap-On sales reps in their trucks, they will show you what's on sale that week, going that route, you could build your tools set up in stages, that's what I did. You can also open up an account with them for the minor purchases and pay them so much a week.
I bought an upper and lower box back in the 80's, I paid $1,400.00 for them back then. I traded up to a bigger box about 5 years ago, the sales rep gave me what I originally paid for them and still knocked some money off the new box. He then sold my old boxes to a customer.
I recently bought a socket set, etc. from Lowes (Kobalt) for construction work, I was quite impressed by them.
I bought an upper and lower box back in the 80's, I paid $1,400.00 for them back then. I traded up to a bigger box about 5 years ago, the sales rep gave me what I originally paid for them and still knocked some money off the new box. He then sold my old boxes to a customer.
I recently bought a socket set, etc. from Lowes (Kobalt) for construction work, I was quite impressed by them.
Depending how much money you want to spend, I ended up buying an inch pound torque wrench for my Carbon fiber road bike and now I have been using it more for my cars. The brand is Pedro's and it is the nice clicker style..
QUOTE(Lou W @ Jul 17 2007, 10:40 AM)
Most of my tools are Snap-On, the quality is really good, however, they can be expense. If you talk to the Snap-On sales reps in their trucks, they will show you what's on sale that week, going that route, you could build your tools set up in stages, that's what I did. You can also open up an account with them for the minor purchases and pay them so much a week.
I bought an upper and lower box back in the 80's, I paid $1,400.00 for them back then. I traded up to a bigger box about 5 years ago, the sales rep gave me what I originally paid for them and still knocked some money off the new box. He then sold my old boxes to a customer.
I recently bought a socket set, etc. from Lowes (Kobalt) for construction work, I was quite impressed by them.
I have actually been very impressed with the tools at Home Depot, Lowe's, and Autozone. They are actually pretty nice and I think Autozone has the same warranty as Sears, no questions asked. It seems Sears quality has gone off a little, but they still warranty them. If you look around at sears they have their entry level tools and some nicer ratchets and stuff.
My advice to to buy only what you need and go cheap on the real specific items. I have had a full set of Craftsmen metric wrenches/sockets for years. I buy the random stuff from my local Auto Zone/Lowes. Abuse the hell out of it and no worries. You only use most of the stuff once anyway.
I do recommend buying the engine drop jack attachment from Chris at Tangerine racing. That thing made dropping the engine easy. I just put the car up on ramps and dropped the engine straight down. I didn't even have to use jack stands! That was a nice change from my bug.
I do recommend buying the engine drop jack attachment from Chris at Tangerine racing. That thing made dropping the engine easy. I just put the car up on ramps and dropped the engine straight down. I didn't even have to use jack stands! That was a nice change from my bug.
Here it is, and some people may disagree with me, but here it is.
YOU DO NOT NEED SNAP-ON TOOLS.
For the tools that I use most often, Craftsman is (way) cheaper, with a lifetime warrenty. At the hobbiest level, you don't need more then that. Unless you make your living working on cars, you are at the hobbiest level.
For the tools that I use less often, or are disposable (wire cup brushes, etc) Harbor Freight. Why pay 200% more for a knotted wire cup brush from Home Depot or Sears (or 400% more from Snap-On). DO NOT BUY ANY ELECTRIC TOOLS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT!
JACK STANDS. At least 4 of them, rated to 2X the weight of your car, with a pin locking mechanism rather then a lever.
You do need a jack. You do not need a $600 low profile race jack.
I have 2 sets of metric wrenches from size 6mm to 17mm. Bigger then 17 mm I have el-cheapo harbor freight wrenches up to 28mm. Why? The times I have needed a wrench bigger then 17mm can be counted on one hand. Smaller the 17mm, however, you pull it out every time you open the bonnet.
You are going to need ratchets in 1/4, 1/2 inch drives. Again, craftsman quality is fine, you DON'T NEED Snap-On. Most of mine are off brand and have never failed me, but the ones that I grab first are better quality with 5 degree swings. You are going to need sockets from 6mm - 17mm. All mine are second hand, off brand, and have removed and retightened everything that I have ever asked of them.
You are going to want a set of metric allen wrenches. They are the same whether you get them at HF, HD, FLAPS, whatever - so save some coin and get them at HF.
You are going to want a breaker bar, and will probably need an adapter from 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch for your sockets.
With these wrenches alone, you can totally take apart and put back together a 914. if you want to work on your own car, these are the tools you want at a minimum.
Other tools depend on what you want to do with your car.
Planning on repainting? Go ahead and buy a 60 - 80 gallon air compressor right now. It will be very handy for the rest of your build. You DO NOT NEED an air compressor unless you are painting, though.
Planning on welding? You are going to need a welder.
You will probably want an angle grinder and DA sander eventually, depending on what you do. If you have a ballsy air compressor already, go air powered. Otherwise, go electric. Don't go off brand for grinders and sanders.
You will probably want a Dremel tool. There are times when only they will do.
You will want a good drill, corded with a 1/2 inch chuck at least. Mine is a DeWalt (Black and Decker), and I have put it though hell and back, it it just asks for more. Cordless is okay for little jobs, but corded is better for an all night work session.
You may eventually want a sawzall. Mine has been handy. I got it at Walmart for cheap on a whim.
There.
Zach
YOU DO NOT NEED SNAP-ON TOOLS.
For the tools that I use most often, Craftsman is (way) cheaper, with a lifetime warrenty. At the hobbiest level, you don't need more then that. Unless you make your living working on cars, you are at the hobbiest level.
For the tools that I use less often, or are disposable (wire cup brushes, etc) Harbor Freight. Why pay 200% more for a knotted wire cup brush from Home Depot or Sears (or 400% more from Snap-On). DO NOT BUY ANY ELECTRIC TOOLS FROM HARBOR FREIGHT!
JACK STANDS. At least 4 of them, rated to 2X the weight of your car, with a pin locking mechanism rather then a lever.
You do need a jack. You do not need a $600 low profile race jack.
I have 2 sets of metric wrenches from size 6mm to 17mm. Bigger then 17 mm I have el-cheapo harbor freight wrenches up to 28mm. Why? The times I have needed a wrench bigger then 17mm can be counted on one hand. Smaller the 17mm, however, you pull it out every time you open the bonnet.
You are going to need ratchets in 1/4, 1/2 inch drives. Again, craftsman quality is fine, you DON'T NEED Snap-On. Most of mine are off brand and have never failed me, but the ones that I grab first are better quality with 5 degree swings. You are going to need sockets from 6mm - 17mm. All mine are second hand, off brand, and have removed and retightened everything that I have ever asked of them.
You are going to want a set of metric allen wrenches. They are the same whether you get them at HF, HD, FLAPS, whatever - so save some coin and get them at HF.
You are going to want a breaker bar, and will probably need an adapter from 3/4 inch to 1/2 inch for your sockets.
With these wrenches alone, you can totally take apart and put back together a 914. if you want to work on your own car, these are the tools you want at a minimum.
Other tools depend on what you want to do with your car.
Planning on repainting? Go ahead and buy a 60 - 80 gallon air compressor right now. It will be very handy for the rest of your build. You DO NOT NEED an air compressor unless you are painting, though.
Planning on welding? You are going to need a welder.
You will probably want an angle grinder and DA sander eventually, depending on what you do. If you have a ballsy air compressor already, go air powered. Otherwise, go electric. Don't go off brand for grinders and sanders.
You will probably want a Dremel tool. There are times when only they will do.
You will want a good drill, corded with a 1/2 inch chuck at least. Mine is a DeWalt (Black and Decker), and I have put it though hell and back, it it just asks for more. Cordless is okay for little jobs, but corded is better for an all night work session.
You may eventually want a sawzall. Mine has been handy. I got it at Walmart for cheap on a whim.
There.
Zach
90% of my tools are Craftsman = fine
5% are cheapo = broke some
5% are SNAP ON = cost more that some parts on my 914
Go get an extra set of 13mm wrenches so you can always find one
My favorite tool is the wobble extension = first click and the sockets can pivot 30 deg, second click and it is a rock solid no wobble socket extender.
Steve - If you need to borrow my King of the Garage SNAP ON 5-75 lb torque wrench, let me know. I got the bug and dropped the big bills on it knowing my wrenching is a long-term thing. I hardly use it, and could loan it out locally. I also have a Craftsman 25-175 lb torque wrench that I use for my wheels
5% are cheapo = broke some
5% are SNAP ON = cost more that some parts on my 914
Go get an extra set of 13mm wrenches so you can always find one
My favorite tool is the wobble extension = first click and the sockets can pivot 30 deg, second click and it is a rock solid no wobble socket extender.
Steve - If you need to borrow my King of the Garage SNAP ON 5-75 lb torque wrench, let me know. I got the bug and dropped the big bills on it knowing my wrenching is a long-term thing. I hardly use it, and could loan it out locally. I also have a Craftsman 25-175 lb torque wrench that I use for my wheels
I've been using Craftsman hand tools for... what, over 25 years (30?!? I hate it when I say that). <2% of my hand tools are cheap crap, the rest are Craftsman. Good enough for hand tools.
Jack doesn't matter as long as you're only using it only to get the car up and down. Spend all your money on jackstands.
Jack doesn't matter as long as you're only using it only to get the car up and down. Spend all your money on jackstands.
Craftsmen is fine. I do use the set of adapters fairly often: the ones that go from 1/4 inch drive to 3/8 and vice versa as well as the 3/8 to 1/2 drive and 1/2 to 3/8. This way, you add tremendous flexibility when you need just one socket that's out of range of the particular ratchet you're using. They sell them in a pouch of four at Sears.
And I have a cute little tiny wrench that has a 3/8 inch head on it when it's only big enough for a 1/4 inch drive normally. It's good for using regular sockets in little spaces. I think I bought it 20 years ago at Imparts, LTD. Don't know if they're still in business.
BTW: who sells that crazy dedicated distributor wrench, the one with the tommy bar that opens the nut at the base.
AND:
Who sells that crazy reverse spiral spring-looking oil filter wrench that only removes the filter, goes up the side of the filter like a snake and only goes counterclockwise?
Steering wheel nut = 27mm!
Paul
And I have a cute little tiny wrench that has a 3/8 inch head on it when it's only big enough for a 1/4 inch drive normally. It's good for using regular sockets in little spaces. I think I bought it 20 years ago at Imparts, LTD. Don't know if they're still in business.
BTW: who sells that crazy dedicated distributor wrench, the one with the tommy bar that opens the nut at the base.
AND:
Who sells that crazy reverse spiral spring-looking oil filter wrench that only removes the filter, goes up the side of the filter like a snake and only goes counterclockwise?
Steering wheel nut = 27mm!
Paul
QUOTE(orthobiz @ Jul 17 2007, 04:29 PM)
BTW: who sells that crazy dedicated distributor wrench, the one with the tommy bar that opens the nut at the base.
That's one that any cheap-o tool will do. There are plenty at any flaps.
Thanks guys, this is all good stuff. I have no doubt having the Snap-Ons would bring a smile every time I grab a socket driver and it just feels solid and perfect as you turn it. And Lou W, I believe that it would be worthwhile getting to know a driver with a local route, by all I hear those guys tend to be decent businessmen who understand the value of a solid long-term customer relationship.
But since funds are not unlimited, for now I'll continue with Craftsman for filling out the simple stuff. I've got a couple standard sets of metric sockets, different depths and drives, driver for the 944 tranny drain plug, 21 and 22mm sockets, wrench set, several Vise-Grips, etc. There's a lot crammed into a three drawer toolbox that I have to be very careful with when lifting...
After Gint's story I will be getting pin-locked jackstands to replace the clickers. But I really will have to find a reasonably priced low-profile floor jack. I have a 10 year old Sears 1.5 ton (I think) that does the job, but if my 944 is at all below stock ride height the jack can't get under it. Thing's lost in storage right now, or I'd've checked it on the teeners.
I believe I've got a Craftsman and Bosch corded 1/2 hp, and a Craftsman cordless on the square 14.4V "butt-plug" system. Is it me, or do they change those battery shapes every 2-3 years no matter what?
What are the more esoteric tools that an aspiring teener wrencher needs? We've covered wobble extensions, I'm wondering about other oddities like that steering wheel nut.
Again thanks for sharing, this is great info!
But since funds are not unlimited, for now I'll continue with Craftsman for filling out the simple stuff. I've got a couple standard sets of metric sockets, different depths and drives, driver for the 944 tranny drain plug, 21 and 22mm sockets, wrench set, several Vise-Grips, etc. There's a lot crammed into a three drawer toolbox that I have to be very careful with when lifting...
After Gint's story I will be getting pin-locked jackstands to replace the clickers. But I really will have to find a reasonably priced low-profile floor jack. I have a 10 year old Sears 1.5 ton (I think) that does the job, but if my 944 is at all below stock ride height the jack can't get under it. Thing's lost in storage right now, or I'd've checked it on the teeners.
I believe I've got a Craftsman and Bosch corded 1/2 hp, and a Craftsman cordless on the square 14.4V "butt-plug" system. Is it me, or do they change those battery shapes every 2-3 years no matter what?
What are the more esoteric tools that an aspiring teener wrencher needs? We've covered wobble extensions, I'm wondering about other oddities like that steering wheel nut.
Again thanks for sharing, this is great info!
Heh... Checking jacks at Sears, every one I've looked at has been panned in customer reviews. Well, at least they're honest enough not to delete them.
Do the best you can & you will wind up mixing & matching. Nothing beats the convenience of going into a Sears on a Sun. afternoon & trading in a broken tool for free. However, these are Porsches' & that means that there is a whole bunch of specialty tools you really can't do w/out. If you own a six you have to have a 36mm line wrench for example. Ball joint socket is another one. It takes time & money no matter how you want to slice it.
I have and addiction to air tools. I bought most of mine at harbor freight, and they work fine. Air tools make your life so much easier, especially if your car is alittle rusty. I've also got a small hand sand blaster that I'm always using to clean up some part or another.
As to hand tools, most of mine are cheap, as I tend to lose them before they wear out.
As to hand tools, most of mine are cheap, as I tend to lose them before they wear out.
I've busted WAY too many knuckles breaking cheap HF tools (Although their screwdrivers make GREAT tent stakes)
Most of my box is craftsman, The Box-Opens, the sockets, maybe 1/2 of the extensions, most of the screwdrivers, Nut Drivers, Files, etc.
The rest is good stuff. Mostly Mac, but some snap-on too. Socket wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in 2 or 3 lengths, flex heads... Drill Bits (use good ones, and you'll never buy cheap ones again) Allen wrenches (I hate stripping those damned things), Pliers (millions of options too), Punches, chisels, The popular sized wrenches...
The only few things in my box from HF are Hammers (and i wont buy them again, they dont last long) A crow bar, and some screwdrivers i have managed to not lose out camping.
Spend the money on the good stuff if you are going to use it often, the wrenches are more comfy, the ratchets are better, etc. Craftsman is great for the occasionally used stuff (27MM nut on the steering wheel...)
BJH
Most of my box is craftsman, The Box-Opens, the sockets, maybe 1/2 of the extensions, most of the screwdrivers, Nut Drivers, Files, etc.
The rest is good stuff. Mostly Mac, but some snap-on too. Socket wrenches in 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 in 2 or 3 lengths, flex heads... Drill Bits (use good ones, and you'll never buy cheap ones again) Allen wrenches (I hate stripping those damned things), Pliers (millions of options too), Punches, chisels, The popular sized wrenches...
The only few things in my box from HF are Hammers (and i wont buy them again, they dont last long) A crow bar, and some screwdrivers i have managed to not lose out camping.
Spend the money on the good stuff if you are going to use it often, the wrenches are more comfy, the ratchets are better, etc. Craftsman is great for the occasionally used stuff (27MM nut on the steering wheel...)
BJH
For a back yarder Craftsman will do fine. I have over 30 K in Snap-on, but that is because I worked in a garage for a time. If you are using them everyday you want the better quality tools as the others will fail you, or they just aren't as comfortable to use. Air tool wise, if you have a good compressor you should have a good 1/2" and 3/8" gun. Then get yourself some air wrenches. You will be happy with that.
QUOTE(smj @ Jul 17 2007, 07:41 PM)
<snip>
What are the more esoteric tools that an aspiring teener wrencher needs? We've covered wobble extensions, I'm wondering about other oddities like that steering wheel nut.
This is not the most expensive tool in my garage... but it's certainly the most powerful.
Snap-On 4x torque multiplier. 1,000 ft/lb output.
It makes very, very short work of the castle nut when changing out rear wheel bearings.
Most of my stuff is Craftsman. Good enough for most uses. However, about two and a half years ago, I splurged on a bunch of Snap-On tools. A buddy of mine was getting them at a pretty good discount...
Their 1/4" drive sockets fit into places that the Craftsman ones cannot. The only way I got the seats out of Lisa's tail-dragger was by using the Snap-On 10mm socket, because that's the only one that would fit!!
There are times when nothing else will do.
(Anecdote: Years and years ago, aircraft mechanics were required to have Snap-On tools, because Craftsman were regarded as too big and clunky, only fit for repairing farm machinery. This was in the 30s, when my late grandpa got his A&P license.)
Oh, torque wrenches: I had a cheapie Chinese one that lasted for about eight years. Never went out of calibration that I could tell! I also bought a beam-type torque wrench, which cannot go out of calibration. I check my "clickers" against it periodically to see if they're still in calibration. I now have a Snap-On torque wrench (see above note about the sale prices!) in the ~10-100 lb-ft range, and a Sears 25-250 in-lb one for the fiddly bits--like the oil sump nut!!
--DD
Their 1/4" drive sockets fit into places that the Craftsman ones cannot. The only way I got the seats out of Lisa's tail-dragger was by using the Snap-On 10mm socket, because that's the only one that would fit!!
There are times when nothing else will do.
(Anecdote: Years and years ago, aircraft mechanics were required to have Snap-On tools, because Craftsman were regarded as too big and clunky, only fit for repairing farm machinery. This was in the 30s, when my late grandpa got his A&P license.)
Oh, torque wrenches: I had a cheapie Chinese one that lasted for about eight years. Never went out of calibration that I could tell! I also bought a beam-type torque wrench, which cannot go out of calibration. I check my "clickers" against it periodically to see if they're still in calibration. I now have a Snap-On torque wrench (see above note about the sale prices!) in the ~10-100 lb-ft range, and a Sears 25-250 in-lb one for the fiddly bits--like the oil sump nut!!
--DD
I'll just throw a thumbs up to Craftsman as well. I started collecting tools in high school back in the late 80's to early 90's. Craftsman to me was the way to go on a budget. I worked in a boat yard for summers and most of the pro mechanics has Mac or Snap-On tool but they were too pricey for my budget.
For special tools I usually go harbor freight or to the local autoparts store, where ever I can find the tool for a reasonable price.
I also would recommend the cheap Harbor Freight aluminum floor jacks. I got 1 about 3 years ago and I couldn't believe how light it was. It isn't the finest quality item ever created but has not failed me yet. Great for the price (about $100). I even bought another one to replace my other aging steel jack.
I had HF steel jacks in the past, 1 even lasted me 12 years before I needed to replace the seals (which it came with), but those are heavy!
As for what to buy I usually look at what job I'm planning on tackling and what tools I need for that job then buy accordingly. If it's something that I will likely use frequently then I buy Craftsman if available. If it's something I will probalby only use once then I shop around or go HF.
Another alternative is to look for used tool shops. There are a couple in my area and I picked up a nice 5 drawer vault top Snap-on box for $100. I aslo picked up other various quality tools over the years at quite a discount.
Good luck outfiting your garage!
-Rob
For special tools I usually go harbor freight or to the local autoparts store, where ever I can find the tool for a reasonable price.
I also would recommend the cheap Harbor Freight aluminum floor jacks. I got 1 about 3 years ago and I couldn't believe how light it was. It isn't the finest quality item ever created but has not failed me yet. Great for the price (about $100). I even bought another one to replace my other aging steel jack.
I had HF steel jacks in the past, 1 even lasted me 12 years before I needed to replace the seals (which it came with), but those are heavy!
As for what to buy I usually look at what job I'm planning on tackling and what tools I need for that job then buy accordingly. If it's something that I will likely use frequently then I buy Craftsman if available. If it's something I will probalby only use once then I shop around or go HF.
Another alternative is to look for used tool shops. There are a couple in my area and I picked up a nice 5 drawer vault top Snap-on box for $100. I aslo picked up other various quality tools over the years at quite a discount.
Good luck outfiting your garage!
-Rob
My 3/8" drive Craftsman ratchets keep falling apart. I had 4 go bad in the last 5 years. I have about 6 or 7 of them laying around the shop. When I brake one I turn it in for a new one, then try to break it too!
I have a 10 year old MATCO 3/8" Stubby rachet that I swear by. Stubby has never failed me. I love that thing! Had to paint it flourescent green so I could pick it out of my tool bag fast.
In my book!
"Nothing beats a Milwaukee Sawzall!
'Cept a Dynasty 200 Miller Tig"
I have a 10 year old MATCO 3/8" Stubby rachet that I swear by. Stubby has never failed me. I love that thing! Had to paint it flourescent green so I could pick it out of my tool bag fast.
In my book!
"Nothing beats a Milwaukee Sawzall!
'Cept a Dynasty 200 Miller Tig"
Way back when I worked briefly in a shop, I found the most common tools were Snap-On. The second most common was Craftsman, and then there were some MAC Tools.
The Snap-Off tool guy was around every week, or you could call him and have him drop by. The MAC guy was around about that often as well. Those guys live off the "credit lines" that they extend to the mechanics.
One guy had all Snap-Off tools and Huge Boxes. In my opinion, he had a really nice set of really expensive tools, but he was in the trade for long term, so it was probably a good investment for him.
My set was made up mostly of Craftsman and I bought specialty tools from the Snap-Off guy as I needed them. Standard hand tools, I bought at Sears.
Over the years, my collection has grown considerably. I have 3 full bottom boxes, 2 full top boxes and a full intermediate box.
I agree with the others, that Harbor Freight is an excellent source for disposable tools. I buy them knowing I will cut, weld, grind and/or modify them. They are also a good source for inexpensive Impact Sockets (the only sockets I will use from them).
Tool collections will cost a lot of money. If you spread it over many years, it will seem like less, but the total does add up.
My suggestion would be to go to the sears catalog and find one of the large tool sets. It's hard to come up with more quality tools for less money than those mechanics sets.
Something else to consider is tool storage. Beware of the quality with the cheap boxes as they are mostly junk. Go for ball bearing drawer slides at the very least.
Jack stands and a good jack are invaluable. Go to a local Farm store or similar and find yourself a 2-ton (or more) high lift floor jack and a good set of jackstands (the kind with pins for height adjustment).
If you had the room or money, I highly recommend asymmetrical 2-post lifts from lift companies such as Rotary.
Porsche specialty tools can be sourced from several places on the internet, and I would suggest only buying them as you have a need for them. They add up quickly.
Good luck with your tool collection.
The Snap-Off tool guy was around every week, or you could call him and have him drop by. The MAC guy was around about that often as well. Those guys live off the "credit lines" that they extend to the mechanics.
One guy had all Snap-Off tools and Huge Boxes. In my opinion, he had a really nice set of really expensive tools, but he was in the trade for long term, so it was probably a good investment for him.
My set was made up mostly of Craftsman and I bought specialty tools from the Snap-Off guy as I needed them. Standard hand tools, I bought at Sears.
Over the years, my collection has grown considerably. I have 3 full bottom boxes, 2 full top boxes and a full intermediate box.
I agree with the others, that Harbor Freight is an excellent source for disposable tools. I buy them knowing I will cut, weld, grind and/or modify them. They are also a good source for inexpensive Impact Sockets (the only sockets I will use from them).
Tool collections will cost a lot of money. If you spread it over many years, it will seem like less, but the total does add up.
My suggestion would be to go to the sears catalog and find one of the large tool sets. It's hard to come up with more quality tools for less money than those mechanics sets.
Something else to consider is tool storage. Beware of the quality with the cheap boxes as they are mostly junk. Go for ball bearing drawer slides at the very least.
Jack stands and a good jack are invaluable. Go to a local Farm store or similar and find yourself a 2-ton (or more) high lift floor jack and a good set of jackstands (the kind with pins for height adjustment).
If you had the room or money, I highly recommend asymmetrical 2-post lifts from lift companies such as Rotary.
Porsche specialty tools can be sourced from several places on the internet, and I would suggest only buying them as you have a need for them. They add up quickly.
Good luck with your tool collection.
If you think you have enough money for Snap-On Tools, buy the craftsman instead and use your svings to get a good lift
Low profile jacks are not necessary unless your car is lower than stock. Measure the clearance and take that measurement to the store with you. Most jacks have their max and minimum heights posted on their boxes. I would recommend purchasing the jack with the tallest lift height and a good set of 6 ton or better jack stands. I've also found that I really like using ramps for any work not suspension/brake related.
I like Craftsman tools, b/c they are the best ones I can afford, but I also have cheap wrenches that work just as well in most applications. And like John said, those craftsman tool sets are very well priced.
Low profile jacks are not necessary unless your car is lower than stock. Measure the clearance and take that measurement to the store with you. Most jacks have their max and minimum heights posted on their boxes. I would recommend purchasing the jack with the tallest lift height and a good set of 6 ton or better jack stands. I've also found that I really like using ramps for any work not suspension/brake related.
I like Craftsman tools, b/c they are the best ones I can afford, but I also have cheap wrenches that work just as well in most applications. And like John said, those craftsman tool sets are very well priced.
If the existing threads on lifts aren't comprehensive, I'll open a new one. Trust me, a lift is on my radar...
More good info, thanks everybody. Especially on the used tool shop, I'll have to look into that. I'm also checking things out on eBay as I go along.
I was looking at cabinets along with the tool sets on the Sears web site last night. Someplace to keep them, and keep them organized, is part of the plan.
Anybody have a chance to compare the Sears "Professional" tools versus the standard Craftsman stuff? I'm seeing lots of higher priced "professional" sets on offer there.
More good info, thanks everybody. Especially on the used tool shop, I'll have to look into that. I'm also checking things out on eBay as I go along.
I was looking at cabinets along with the tool sets on the Sears web site last night. Someplace to keep them, and keep them organized, is part of the plan.
Anybody have a chance to compare the Sears "Professional" tools versus the standard Craftsman stuff? I'm seeing lots of higher priced "professional" sets on offer there.
I have about a gazillion dollars worth of Snap On, Matco, and Mac tools, and a few Craftsman and HF things too. If you're using it every day for years, the big $$$ brands are completely worth it, but I generally won't buy a Snap On tool that I know I'll only use once a year.
I don't like regular Craftsman wrenches, they hurt your hands when you really crank on them (WAAAAA!) but their professional series are better and easier to clean. I also don't like their socket locking feature on their ratchets, it's a PITA every time that you use it, and it prevents a very rare problem.
As far as tools I can't live without, a few special items that I use all the time are- Knipex channel lock type pliers, they're far and away the best, long bent needle nosed pliers, a 1/4" and 3/8" air ratchet, a really, really strong 1/2" impact gun- mine is an IR composite bodied that torques up to 600 ft lbs in reverse, I saw them at sears the other day for under $200.00. Also, a magnet on a stick, a mirror on a stick, a rechargeable small flashlight, ratcheting wrenches, a long slot and phillips screwdriver, a quality ratcheting screwdriver, and a multimeter. Oh yeah, a nice cordless drill and an automatic center punch.
I don't like regular Craftsman wrenches, they hurt your hands when you really crank on them (WAAAAA!) but their professional series are better and easier to clean. I also don't like their socket locking feature on their ratchets, it's a PITA every time that you use it, and it prevents a very rare problem.
As far as tools I can't live without, a few special items that I use all the time are- Knipex channel lock type pliers, they're far and away the best, long bent needle nosed pliers, a 1/4" and 3/8" air ratchet, a really, really strong 1/2" impact gun- mine is an IR composite bodied that torques up to 600 ft lbs in reverse, I saw them at sears the other day for under $200.00. Also, a magnet on a stick, a mirror on a stick, a rechargeable small flashlight, ratcheting wrenches, a long slot and phillips screwdriver, a quality ratcheting screwdriver, and a multimeter. Oh yeah, a nice cordless drill and an automatic center punch.
QUOTE(sww914 @ Jul 18 2007, 12:47 PM)
mine is an IR composite bodied that torques up to 600 ft lbs in reverse, I saw them at sears the other day for under $200.00.
Oooww... I've been wanting one of those for a while. Sears eh? My sub $20 H.F. impact wrench was well worth the price and has served me quite well, but it doesn't have squat for torque.
Cheap tools will also teach you the value of the good tools.
on the cheap but useful end of the scale: I have a little 7" pry bar from home depot - 'workforce mini bar'. It is super thin to get into the smallest gaps yet strong enough that you can whack it with a hammer. Works a lot better than a screw driver - much less bruising to the part.
Can't tell you how many times it was 'just the thing' as I was tearing down the car.
Can't tell you how many times it was 'just the thing' as I was tearing down the car.
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