Alright my original "old school" Renegade H. radiator is leaking. Now those of you that put together your cooling setup, what Aluminum radiator did you run from Summit or Jegs? Or other online source?

Mine is a custom made dual pass unit, cost me 275 bucks, no problems with heat for 2 years now.

Mark

i have a new school RH cooling system in mine but am not using a RH water pump or fittings - i am running with a chevy short water pump and needed to removed the thermostat to keep temps down.

I'm using an AFCO ASA dual pass racing radiator #80133. $249

Andys

Griffing Scirocco dual pass from Summit (Buick 3.8L V6)

Click to view attachment

I enjoy looking at all of the monster holes you guys had to cut in your wheel wells to let all that hot air out. Please post more pics like that. Looks like a lot of hose clamps to try to keep tight too.

don't be a hater.

i'd have the biggest porsche 6 in mine if money was unlimited.

choices - it is great we have a wide assortment of choices to pick from.

jim

--

I have to agree on the part about the hose clamps, there should only be the ones holding it to the radiator and the one at the rear where it connects to the components. Too many clamps make more chances for failure. Ask Joe Buckle how many we took out of his when he bought it, that car was so screwed up and mickey moused it was pathetic. He has or will be pretty much rebuilding that whole car. This time, he is doing it right however.


But the choices we have for these cars is growing everyday, I still like the SBC option and I am sticking with it.

these two?

Griffin single pass from Summit Racing. $250.
Fans with electronic thermostat from craigslist. Almost new. $40
Custom made aluminum shroud. Chopped up cookie sheet from a local garage sale. $1.00

Remote electric pump from Summit. Forgot how much....

Ran it on the hottest day this summer in stop and go traffic and it never saw 200.


Good luck!



Roger

Scott,
I changed my mind. I'm going Diesel.

Yup, as pictured way too many clamps. What I am doing is to mock up a hose from pieces to use as a template to get aluminum tubing bent to match. I am running hard lines under the car that fit into the recesses of the center tunnel.

So when can I come by and pick up that 327 that you no longer need?

Just a word of caution; Be sure to allow for both expansion of the tubing and vibration/movement allowances. The tubing, especially aluminum, will grow considerably in length and may cause unwanted bind leading to failure. While it is true that the more joints the more potential for failure, the rubber hose will dampen a lot of vibration.

I also did under car hard lines.

Here's a shot of the radiator hard lines done in stailnless tubing (tacked together). Didn't want to, but had to cross them over for best routing.

Andys

[/quote]

Yup, as pictured way too many clamps. What I am doing is to mock up a hose from pieces to use as a template to get aluminum tubing bent to match. I am running hard lines under the car that fit into the recesses of the center tunnel.

[/quote]

When I saw the pictures of your radiator with all of the hose clamps I thought about how it didn't look like the rest of the car. I've been following your build from your web page.

Got to say your car is one of the best conversions out there. Keep up the good work.

Bob

"When I saw the pictures of your radiator with all of the hose clamps I thought about how it didn't look like the rest of the car. I've been following your build from your web page. "

Got to keep every one one their toes

Thanks for the kind words
Paul

Click to view attachment

RH with a Subie EJ20. Seldom hits 190 even in Tampa traffic.

Ed aka W9R1

Griffin aluminum 2 pass, about $275, fits great and works so good I can run pusher fans. even on the hottest days, one fan is all it takes, I have the second one on manual. The guys are right about minimum joints, it's the only way to go. I ran my hoses thru copper 90 degree ells to get them to turn neatly into the front compartment and used the good (and very expensive) marine hose with the wire in it. i really wanted to have an auxiliary electric pump to run for a minute or two after the car was shut down but gave up the idea because of the extra joints it would take.

Tyler,

Just how expensive is that marine hose ? Apart from the copper ells in the front compartment, do you run the marine hose all the way to the engine ?


And for anybody running tubing in those channels on the underside of the car : what kind of clamps do you use ?

Thx

That is the only hose I would run on my car. It's really not that expensive either. To buy the hoses from Renegade or Rod Simpson, you would spend $100 just for the hoses, I get it across the street from my house from Mesa Hose and it cost me $80 for both hoses. We used it on Joe Buckles car too when we replaced all the hoses on his car. It is some really tough hose. The only hose better would be the Silicone hose they sell, that however, is expensive, it was like $13 something a foot.

Yes, you run it from the radiator to the engine, no connections in between.

My clamps are made from 1/8" aluminum. Nuts are welded to the flor pan.
Click to view attachment

Cool. (NPI)

Funny coincidence : I went to a store today looking for fuel-line related stuff, and as an afterthought asked about coolant hoses. They pointed me to a pretty decent selection of that marine hose. I hadn't heard of anyone using it in their conversions til I checked this thread today. Probably what I'll go with.

That looks pretty clean, I have seen everything from what you are running to just some plumbers tape you can buy by the roll. I used rubber covered clamps I got from a friend of mine with a parts shop, he had a big old box of them. I used 5 or 6 per hose underneath the car. That was on the Chalon, I will probably do the same or similar on this car.

Paul,

if you want to coat those clamps with rubber (tighter fit, no chance of vibration) look up Loctite USA, under product search "Color Guard". It's a brushable/dipable rubber coating. It's main use is coating tool handles so they are nonslip.

Paul,

Did you drill holes through the pan to allow for some thread to protrude past the nut? I'm about to fasten my pipes now. BTW, chain link fence gate hardware has some very similar shapes to your clamps though steel (and galvinized).

Andys

Yes, I drilled holes through the pan and welded the nuts to the bottom side.

I'm very new to this but studying hard to get up to speed, can you get the marine hose inside the tunnel or is this out of the question? Coud you run the hose individually down each side in the rocker area? I'm just trying to not have it on the bottom of the pan. Also I have the subie wrx radiator and fans from the donor. I was hoping to use the condensor and radiator as they came out of the car. Won't that work? Fieros had a neat place on either side of the tank to run everything but have a huge tunnel and small interior I guess it's all a compromise.
back to the homework.
Charlie

Charlie -
As may be thought of the most illogical place to run the hose, under the car has
PROVEN to be the solution for this scenario -

There have been many many many many people that have been down this path before you -

Each of the other scenarios presents issues that either make the car undependable, undrivable, or both -

It mainly has to do with the best way to cool the car, with the least amount of problems-

Through the rockers you will constantly by dealing with air pockets which create steam and major cooloing issues.

Through the inside of the center tunnel will make the car almost unbearable to drive due to the heat, and this does not address that there simply is not enough room for the hoses inside the tunnel as well -

Best -
Thom

There's several different types. I think it's important to get the type with the wire (embedded in the wall) so it won't collapse and can be bent around corners easily.
Also the type I used was for "engine exhaust". I thought it was priced by the "inch" but I could be wrong since it's been so long.
=============
Funny coincidence : I went to a store today looking for fuel-line related stuff, and as an afterthought asked about coolant hoses. They pointed me to a pretty decent selection of that marine hose. I hadn't heard of anyone using it in their conversions til I checked this thread today. Probably what I'll go with.
[/quote]

How many feet of hose are you guys using on average ... Trying to get an idea how much to start with on my lil' project ??...

Charlie,
I ran my hose in the heater tubes, inlet one side and outlet on the other. I used bellowsflex, 1" ID in and out. The radiator I used has both fittings on the passenger side, so my driver side hose had to move along the heater blower motor area and then go down under the gas tank and out front trunk wall to the radiator. That part took some careful placing of the line but has been there and running everyday for over 2 years. It was a no brainier for me to go this path but others have done nice work running the hose under the car..

Hey Drive-ability,
Can you shoot some pics and post, I am having a hard time grasping the placement. My 930 tranny comes tomorrow so right now I am redoing all coolant lines and installing a Meziere water pump that is electric. I would like to run them like you said yours are.

Ian

Army dude,
Pm me a email address I can send some, much essayer that way. I'll take them in the am and send them out tomorrow. Nice to see your getting your 930 transmission going!!!

What about the rest of us who want to see ???

Sure,
I can post the pictures, There are some shots I don't have, the ones under the gas tank but I have others that show how it goes through the trunk area leading down beside the gas tank etc. You have to use a wire impregnated hose to get the tight bends clean.

I hope this helps, the only thing I had to do was make a 1/2 inch bulge in the area where both hoses go down besides the gas tank, just to get things to fit perfect. You may not have to do this at all. The rest of the routing is just through the hole in the lower dash, into the longs and out in the engine bay. I had to work a bit to get the hoses through the longs but I am sure you can do it. I have never felt any heat from the hoses radiating from the longs so don't worry about heating the cab from this method.