Hi,
Sorry if previously discussed. Can't find it searching or in classic threads. Can I torque my heads with the rockers in place, or do I have to pull them first? I have the torquing sequence, and the 15/18/21 process down, I think.

--jaybird

I'm 99% sure there are some nuts you can't get a socket on without pulling the rocker shafts.

No problem at all doing this! But, if the engine is still in the car you'll have a heck of a time with the upper engine tins still attached ( actually it's impossible ).

So, can you remove the upper engine tins to access the top bolts without dropping the engine? If I can manage without doing that, it will make my wife a lot happier. Something about the teener on jackstands and the engine on the floor that makes her unhappy.

--Jaybird

You can, but it might be easier to get a new wife Preferably one that will help you drop your engine and trans.

I disagree with the above that the 4 lower bolts can be retorqued/tightened/removed with the rocker arms still on. 2 of the 4 are accessable but you will fight the rocker arm on the other 2 unless you've found a tool that I don't have...

I just did this last night/this morning so it's fresh in my mind.

-pt

OK, so does anyone have a writeup on rocker removal? I really want to make sure the heads are snug on my new teener before I start tuning it up....

Remove the spring clip which holds the push rod tubes in place - then unscrew the 2 nuts w/washers on each rocker. The rockers just slide off the studs. Take the entire assembly off together (pretty much have to anyway).

Hate to say it, but installation is the reverse of removal. On the install make sure the spring clip is pushing against the bottom of the push rod tubes - otherwise it is a useless piece of spring steel.

It's a bit of a pain in the ass w/the engine in the car but not all that bad. Just make sure the car has cooled down as you'll be bumping your hand (maybe even your nose) on the header/heat exchangers.

-pt

One caveat, the hex shaped pieces that the rocker shafts sit in is bigger on the head side than the nut side. Make sure you put them in the same way they came out. Otherwise your valves will be way out of adjustment.

I hope that made sense?

The shaft is different from front to back. One side is 'ovaled" out - this is the side that should mate to the base of the head, the other side is where you tighten the washer/nut.

If you are careful about the way you take them out they should go back together easily.

-pt