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blitZ
I started AXing this year and really enjoy it. The local SCCA group are a great bunch, it's always a good time. However, I'm not doing very well. I'm in SM2 class, which is tough, but overall I'm coming in the bottom 10%. I have stock front and rear sways, but removed the rear sway to resolve some nasty over steer issues. The car still wants to spin when I really push it.
I typically just leave it in second, but the last event was a large course with some fast sweepers so I tried using 3rd a few times.

I know the driver is the major focal point in regards to improvement, but any input from the seasoned veterans would be appreciated.

Current setup

2056, stock djet
9550 cam
100lb springs in the rear.
Stock front sway bar
New Bilsteins
Front Camber 1.2
Rear Camber 1.3
Toe In 1/16 all around
Caster 5.5
205/55 Fuzion tires, not great, better than what I had.

Thinking of doing a 5 lug conversion this winter, starting to scrounge parts. A setup to offer more adjustability.

Wish List

911 front end including 19mm 911 torsion bars
Some after market adjustable front sway bar
Eric's 5 lug trailing arms
140lb rear springs
Adjustable rear shock perches
16 x 7 minilites
Stickier tires.



Dave_Darling
Alignment. Get yourself some negative camber. A little more in the back than in the front, particularly with that setup. A small-ish aftermarket swaybar (19mm, adjustable) will help balance the car with those springs, and will help keep you from scraping your door handles as often when going around corners. wink.gif

--DD
jhadler
A decent adjustable front sway bar, and a good alignment (you will be amazed at what a good alignment can do). That will give you a good base setup to work with.

After that, it's seat time, seat time, seat time. Go to every event you can. Get as many experienced drivers to ride with you as you can. Ride with as many experienced drivers as you can. Go to as many autox schools as you can.

Nothing lowers your times like practice and experience.

As for being competitive in SM2?? Sorry, but SM2 is a cubic dollars class. Unless you have a small fortune that you're just itching to throw into the wind, I would hold off on going gonzo with car mods. Get the sway bar and alignment, and then spend a season getting used to the car. I would even recommend against going to R tires until you've had at least a season under your belt. New drivers going to race tires are problematic for two reasons. 1) Race tires are highly intolerant of mistakes. Mistakes that you make on street tires will generally result in noise and poor times. Those same mistakes on race tires can often result in the destruction of an $800 set of tires in very little time. And 2) Race tires, with the amazing grip they afford, and lack of tire squeal, tend to mask a lot of bad driving habits. Learning what those habits are on street tires, and learning how to drive the tires will result in considerably better times, and will help your race tires live much longer and productive lives once you do switch to them. I didn't say not to drive R tires forever, just a year. Race tires are FUN!!! :-)

That being said, drive, drive, drive.... driving.gif driving.gif driving.gif

Spend the money on autox schools and registration for events. Once you have a better feel for the car, and have become more familiar with the classes that are offered, then you'll be in a better position to decide what you really want to do to the car. Know the rules. Sometimes a seemingly minor mod (in your eyes) will actually bump you up into a class with what I like to call the trailer-riding-fire-breathing-monsters. But hey, in SM2 it doesn't get much worse. You're already playing in deep water... biggrin.gif

-Josh2
914forme
agree.gif Josh is dead on.

One other thing to do is work the events, more than just a cone fetcher. Work setup and tear down, paddock what ever. I like working setup and tear down, why cause most of the top guys will talk while your setting cones, give you advice, you get the inside scoop so to speak. It works out well.

I still think a 914 can be a SM2 winner, but it ain't the class a novice wants to run. And it would require $$, with that setup why SM2???? Only thing I see is the engine specs that truly keep you out of other classes. And that combo should work someplace else besides SM2.

BTW, to run as a top dog takes effort, effort, a little knowledge and a ton of practice. Unless your a prodigy you can't expect to play a concerto with your car, until you have a few years in....

Have fun drive, and enjoy the rest will come. BTW, what are of GA are you in? Go to the local tracks on race weekends, and pickup take offs, in 205/50R15s size. I would not recommend switching to 911 stuff, un-less it is for wheel choices, though you can get 4 bolts in 7x15s or 6.5 x 15s with out much effort. The 911 stuff is mass, if you don't burn up your brakes, then don't worry. The stock system is a pretty capable system. And weighs a lot less than the 911 stuff does.
Chris Pincetich
Get that Secrets of Solo Racing book wiht the red 911 on the cover. Very good read and allows you to learn the vocabulary to effectively discuss your approach to slow times. Also, try hard to get some photos taken of your car during a run. You will see a what is actualy going on with your set-up. You want the car flat with all 4 tires on the ground at all times...many combos will achieve this so there is no one good answer. Seat time rules, and AX are way to short...head over to a GOOD indoor kart track and scoot around on those for a day, practicing the different apexes and lines. Karts rule, but they beat you up pretty bad too, can't cruise them downtown with the top off, and they don't have a stereo. That's why I race a 914 biggrin.gif
beerchug.gif
jhadler
QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 6 2007, 10:56 AM) *

I still think a 914 can be a SM2 winner, but it ain't the class a novice wants to run. And it would require $$...


I agree....

My thoughts on an SM2 914... A supercharged, built, 3.6L mated to a 915 or Hewland gearbox. Monster flares to accommodate 285's ( or more?? ), full cage, a go-nuts suspension (custom arms front and rear, JRZ's and a 4 corner coil-over conversion to start with), A nice brake system with ABS, and an after market traction control software package (for rain events). This is all legal in SM2...And you'd STILL need to add lead to ballast up to a minimum weight of 2700 lbs. But now we're talking truly massive dollars...

That's a full tilt SM2 car in my mind. And one I'd love to build and drive if I ever win the Lotto... But until then, one can dream...

-Josh2
blitZ
I had a good alignment done, but the camber noted was all he could achieve with the current ride height. I'll see about lowering the car more and a better front sway. Hopefully, I can cure the little oversteer I have left.

I'm not sure of any other class I would fit besides SM2. It's not so much the class, I would just like to improve in the overall standings. I'll keep at it.

Thanks
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