I would like a picture of the inside of the longs, or someone who may have installed supports inside the longs..
Thanks
John

Here are a couple that I have from when I replaced the jack support.

First is a shot of the upward bend under the battery tray. The second is of the heater pipe.

Aha! Took a few minutes, but I found my pics from when we Sawzall'd that one car....


Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment

Last one....


Click to view attachment



--DD

I hope I'm not hijacking this thread but how are you guys rustproofing the longs? I'm guessing you drill selective holes and spray in some goop? Do you drill holes on top so the sill covers go over the holes once complete? I came across the recipe for home brew rustproofing of turpentine,candle wax and machine oil has anyone made their own? What about pouring in Ospho or POR15?

My process is as follows:

This method requires a compressor and a undercoating kit from JCWhitney with the wands and spray nozzles. This kit is also available from Eastwood but it's pretty much the same thing only 20% more.

Drill 1/2" holes to allow access to dead air spaces. The longs work best if you drill holes above and below the heater tubes.

Cover painted surfaces to protect from cleaning solutions, debris, and coatings.

Clean dead air spaces with very hot water and cheap automatic dish detergent, or your favorite cleaner degreaser.

Rinse same with hot water and blow dry. Let sit for a couple days.

Flush same with Oxysolve, Must For Rust, Ospho, Rust Mort, or your favorite rust treatment. I'd only use the more corrosive products like Ospho, for full restoration cars. Must For Rust is much lest caustic and is a good rust treatment. Many of these treatments finish with a clean water rinse, see directions for details. Blow dry, after rinsing.

Paint dead air spaces with Corroless, Rustoleum, or your favorite rust converter/treating paint. I thin the paint with the appropriate thinner to make it easier to spray.

Obviously this is a simplified version of the process. You've got to line the floor with paper or cardboard to catch the paint that runs out. You also want to cover and mask everything you don't want painted. The cleaning, prep, protecting, and clean up is more time consuming that the actual process, but is critical to not making a total mess of everything.

I've been doing this on 914's for about 12 years now, and it does give you some piece of mind after welding on stiffening kits and doing longitudinal repairs and the like.