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tracks914
I'm looking to replace my ball joints and cannot find a 4 pin socket that will fit.
Performance Products seems to have one but the ad is vague. (part # 909941)
Any help?
Tx
dr914@autoatlanta.com
QUOTE(tracks914 @ Aug 10 2007, 10:03 AM) *

I'm looking to replace my ball joints and cannot find a 4 pin socket that will fit.
Performance Products seems to have one but the ad is vague. (part # 909941)
Any help?
Tx


Commonly available from any 914 parts supplier (like GPR) or at sir tools. OR you can use a brass drift and tap the crown nut loose.
rhodyguy
first, leave the bj stem in the bottom of the strut for now. spray pbblaster or aerokroil penetrants and lots of them around the capturing nut on the bottom and the pin/nut/bolt that secures the bj top stem in the strut tube. let it work for a minimum of 24 hrs with extra doses. if you have a compressor and an impact hammer, place the chisel tip in one of the notches of the capturing nut and it should come loose in no time. run it back on hand tight. you can now use the control arm as a lever to help remove the top of the balljoint from the strut tube, after you have removed the nut and bolt/pin (fully removed). DO NOT use the nut to draw to pull the pin back into the strut tube on reassem. you must drive it with a drift or punch from the non-threaded side. if you don't, it will problably break and cost you about $20 to get a new one.

k
Allan
I would recommend replacing the pin and castle nut.

If you are then just get a big pipe wrench for the castle nut.
rhodyguy
and wear heavy gloves when you go with the pipe wrench. there's not much room for purchase. if you're in the wrong position and it slips, the pain is great and you'll be heading for the ice and bandaids. same for the fancy socket and a breaker bar. don't pull the car off the jackstands

k
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Aug 10 2007, 11:16 AM) *

first, leave the bj stem in the bottom of the strut for now. spray pbblaster or aerokroil penetrants and lots of them around the capturing nut on the bottom and the pin/nut/bolt that secures the bj top stem in the strut tube. let it work for a minimum of 24 hrs with extra doses. if you have a compressor and an impact hammer, place the chisel tip in one of the notches of the capturing nut and it should come loose in no time. run it back on hand tight. you can now use the control arm as a lever to help remove the top of the balljoint from the strut tube, after you have removed the nut and bolt/pin (fully removed). DO NOT use the nut to draw to pull the pin back into the strut tube on reassem. you must drive it with a drift or punch from the non-threaded side. if you don't, it will problably break and cost you about $20 to get a new one.

k


Well, THAT missed the point! He asked about removing the ball joint from the control arm. Use a properly dressed drift and a BFH. The Cap'n
rhodyguy
so i should have just wrote take the nut off the bottom? sorry if i gave additional data that MAY have saved some hassles down the road.

forget what i wrote. get a properly dressed drift (perhaps in a kilt), a 5lb maul and hammer away. skip the pennetrating fluid too. have fun.

k
andys
On my 911 suspension, the drift and hammer or impact hammer were no where near adequate enough to break the spanner nut loose. A large pipe wrench WITH a cheater pipe were required.

Andys
tracks914
The whole front suspension is on the work bench so the pipe wrench might not work too well. I will try the brass drift first.
Thanks all
JPB
Flat bar and BFH. I'd PB blast it the night before and I had to use the hot wrench on mines? blink.gif
Spoke
QUOTE(andys @ Aug 10 2007, 03:25 PM) *

A large pipe wrench WITH a cheater pipe were required.


agree.gif

Also used PB Blaster. Didn't have any luck until I applied heat to the nut with a propane torch. The heat really did the trick.
JPB
Yup yup yup. beer.gif
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