Okay guys, I learned my lesson with my previous post. I am seeking knowledge from the panel. I have a 75 1.8, with 79k on the speedo. I assume that is at least 179k, or maybe the speedo has been changed, and the 79 doesn't have anything to do with the mileage on the engine. As far as I know, and the PO, this engine has never been rebuilt. It is currently running dual Delortos, I don't know what size or model. I use this car for commuting about 100 miles one way, once per week. On my last trip to work, she started blowing blue smoke when under compression braking, (going downhill). It doesn't smoke when under a load, or acceleration. The temp guage stays in the normal range, and under acceleration I don't notice any recent lack of power. There are some oil leaks with the engine, and not knowing how many miles are on the engine, I feel that it is time for rebuild. I do not have the tools, facility, or knowledge to rebuild myself, so I though about buying a long block. I have a friend, (not real local), that can help me with the swap out, but I do not want to impose on him to store the vehicle waiting for a rebuild of the original. I would like to stay at or under 2.0 liter, (for economy), and would like to run the dual carbs. I did look at the Raby Big 4, and initially I feel that I don't want to spend that much. Feedback and guidance?

I just got a call from AirCooled Performance, here in San Diego. They will sell my a complete rebuilt 2.0 long block, with hydraulic lifters for $1900. How does this sound to you guys out there?

Sounds like they wanna sell you a bus engine...

That oil smoke is natures way of saying "brakes are cheaper than clutch"

Does it pull pretty good? Any scarey noises?
You probably have leaky valve guides and need a valve job. A leak-down test would show you...

But hey, smoke just means there is combustion in there somewhere!

I can't buy all the parts it takes for a quality rebuild for $1900. There's a compromise there somewhere.

What is the difference between a stock 914 engine and a bus engine, as far as a long block goes? I know that either one can be modified, howeever, what differences are there in stock build up?

the answer depends on what size "stock" motors your talking about

the internals vary, as do heads , etcetera

I currently have a 1.8, and the replacement long block I am looking at is a 2.0. I guess the comparison I am looking for is 2.0 914 vs 2.0 bus motor. Any difference in compression, etc? I will have the appropriate cam in the rebuild for the dual carbs. I understand that the hydraulic heads require less maintenance than the stock 914 push rod configuration, but is there any compromise in performance? I am trying to have a more reliability oriented vehicle than performance oriented, although I wouldn't want to reduce the performance any! This car is fun enough to drive, and to have a car that's ready to drive anywhere, anytime allows for that much more fun!

here's a snippet from tunacan.net

Type 4 Crankcases

This page was last updated Friday, October 06, 2006



2.0 series (1971cc or 120.2 cu.inches)
Case Prefix Original Application Compression Ratio Horsepower / Torque Notes/Comments

GA 1973-74 VW / Porsche 914 North American Model 7.6:1 95hp@4900rpm 3-intake studs, D-Jetronic f.i.

GB 1973-76 VW / Porsche 914 8.0:1 100hp@4500rpm 3-intake studs, D-Jetronic f.i.

GC 1975-76 VW / Porsche 914, North American Model, Porsche 912 7.6:1 88hp 3-intake studs, D-Jetronic f.i.

GD 1976-77 VW Transporter 7.3:1 67hp@4200rpm
101ft-lb@3000rpm L-Jetronic f.i., solid lifter

GE 1978-1979 VW Transporter 7.3:1 67hp@4200rpm
101ft-lb@3000rpm '79 model year has unique exhaust ports that may not work with most aftermarket exhaust systems. '78 model year introduced hydraulic cam followers


I would do a search on the use of hydrualics you may change your mind