I was going to use my brother's 220 volt Lincoln for my car restoration (new pans, hell hole kit and long stiffening kit). Unfortunately, due to the limitaitons with the 100 amp panel in my new house, an additional 220 volt tap would be VERY expensive (think new line under the street from the city into my house with all new panel). Sooooo . . .. back to 110 volt options.

I was looking a the Lincoln SP135T. However, for $150 more I can get the 135 Plus with the variable adjustment (versus the click stops with the 135T). Is the variable adjustment worth the extra $150?

Yes. And you shouldn't need 220v. Sheetmetal is pretty light and you don't need alot of voltage to weld it. Those Lincolns are great. Make sure you get a MIG welder.

I am useing a Hobart 140 and I have welded fender flares,GT chassis stiffening kit and it has worked great. Welding with shielding gas is much cleaner than with shielded wire.

Get the Linc PRO MIG 135...Its a GREAT machine...20lb tank too...not the little 5lb er...I have gone through 15lbs of wire and 3 tanks so far with no issues... and welded up to 1/4" steel. I think it was $500 or so + the tank cost WELL WORTH IT!

Josh

For less money, the Northern Tools 135 mig will do a nice job it can weld as thin as 26 gauge. Not a super quality machine like the Hobart but can do a nice job for around 300 bucks it bought mine for 290 on sale.

Go with the Lincoln 135. A 220 Welder is too much for the sheet metal, a 110 welder will have much more control.

Lots of guys like to have infinite control over wire temp, but I did not find the click stops on the wire temp to be a problem.

Zach

When I bought my welder (sp135t) I asked an aircraft mechanic friend, who I always looked up to as a welder, the same question. He told me not to get the variable adjustment. I can't remember why, I think it was something like there are an infinite selection of wrong positions and only one right position? So you end up F-ing with the knob too much. As an amateur home welder, the 135t has done everything I need, from sheet metal to heavy steel.

I bought mine at Home Depot on one of their "No interest until Jan 1" deals. If I was buying outright, I might consider a Miller or a Hobart. Like I said though, that Lincoln has served me well.

'nother vote for the Lincoln... I have abused mine for 6 years and 3 cars and it is still running strong.

You don't need to add 220, you have it. Tap into two 110 breakers, neutral and

ground. Just make sure that the breakers are for circuits that are light duty and

you can turn these items off when you are welding.

That's the problem. The previous owner already has everything in the panel double and triple tapped for when he installed the 220v hot tub and 220v whirlpool in the basement. So the panel is already at max and I need to add 220 for my compressor yet. Could it be made to work? Yes. BUT, I wouldn't necessarily feel comfortable with how it would work. To do it right and reliably would require a new panel.

So, update my panel so I can borrow a welder or just buy a 110v unit. Plus, this way the unit is mine versus borrowed and I think a 110 volt unit will suit my needs just fine.

I had a similar problem when I needed 220 for my compressor, so I ran a sub-panel in the garage. I would think you could do something similar and maybe relocate a few of the doubled circuits to your sub-panel to make space for the breaker the sub-panel will require.

Also, if you are adding 220 for a compressor, you could use the same outlet. You just can't have both plugged in at the same time.

Either way, probably won't max out a 115v welder. If you want to do thick steel, like 1/4" you just can't MIG it. You have to convert back to Flux core wire.

Immediate welding chores are install of an Engman long kit and hell hole kit, new floorpan, some other rust repair and install of some flares. Heaviest duty will be the 1/8" long kit steel.

I gave SERIOUS thought to a subpanel. But I thought that if I was going to go the route of adding a subpanel and then moving some of the double and triple taps into it to clean up the main panel, might as well just do it right the first time and do a new panel; which I may do at some point in the future.

It's just that for right now, the only thing driving that would be to borrow a welder whereas I can just go buy a 110v that will do what I need. Plus, the money I save in not doing the panel right now I get to spend on my car. (Now, don't go telling anyone, especially a signifcant other, that for what I will spend on a MIG welder, tank and accessories I could cover the panel upgrade and borrow the welder, because this way, I get to buy a welder. ).

I'm leaning towards the Lincoln SP135T. That being said, I'm also going to give the Northern Tool 135 a look. The Lincoln is $460 locally (Home Depot and elsewhere) and the Northern Unit is about $340.

You should have no problem using a 135 for that stuff. 1/8" might be right at the limit of the MIG. But, you can always use Flux core wire. Still 1/8 should be no problem for the MIG.




Just make sure if you whatever you buy comes with the stuff to set it up for MIG. Sometimes thats an extra cost (around$100) I know the Lincoln comes ready for MIG. Its the one I bought. And figure another $100 for a bottle full of gas. And maybe another $30 for a helmet. I got a cheap "Auto Darkening" unit from harbor freight for around $50. Not sure if "Cheap" and "Auto Darkening" should be used in the same sentance, but I still have vision.

The best deal I could find on my Lincoln was from Indiana Oxygen ( no tax and free shipping ) Ebay and their own web site .. really nice guys ... and the machine was here in 2 days !

I went 220v 180c .. with the constant voltage ( finer adjustment ) ... very happy with it ...

Spring for an auto-darkening hood if you don't have one ... and if you have any bucks left ..the cart is a life saver working on cars .. the leads on the welder are pretty short ...

Get a real autodarkening helmet. One with the bitchin-fast response. It's worth every penny after a days worth of welding. The cheap ones always end up getting a little light through before flicking on. Imagine a camera flash every time you pull the trigger. Bad for your eyes.

Or just go with an old fashioned flip helmet. Low budget, and low risk.

Why didn't you just say so in the first place, "Of course you need a new welder, and a helmet, and gloves, and a hood".

I knew I could count on this group for discretion and understanding.

If you've got the electric for a 220 then get it, but a good 110 unit is pretty handy, and you can weld anything you need to on your 914.

I think the adjustment helps on less than pristine metal, and you can really tune it for the process. I've had no problem with the variable adjustments on my Century 110, or my Miller 175.

Do not get a machine without sheilding gas. For doing restoration work you'll get much better results. In tight spots you could miss getting all the slag off and end up with problems. You can't weld up a hole as easy either.

Thanks everyone for your assistance. I ordered a new Lincoln SP135T this evening.

Just run the cord to your dryer plug and use that with the dryer unpluged, if you have an electric dryer that is!!

my .02