Since I have CIS on my engine it takes up a bit of room. This created a need to remove the engine bay latch and all of its related hardware, but this left the hood flopping if I ever hit bumps. I wanted to put pins in, but didnt know how....until I was inspired last night!

List of materials:
- the rubber stoppers that you already have that your lid rests on
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- 2x 1/4" x 3" (its good to go longer so you can cut off the excess) stainless/zinc bolts ~ $.18ea
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- 2x flat 1/4" washers, Stainless/zinc ~ $.10ea
- 2x 1/16" pins, ~$1.20
- Drill bits, drill, cut off wheel

1) Take the rubber nubs off. They are threaded and unscrew.
2) Drill a hole that is smaller than 1/4 inch buy 2 sizes down the center of the nubs (I forget what I used, I just grabbed the bit two sizes down)
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3) Cut heads off of bolts and place the bolt shaft into the holes you drilled.
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4) Put nubs back on and check where the holes need to be drilled through the lid.
* Use a hammer to beat the nubs until they hit a spot on the lid where it is flat and make the sides match*
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5) Notch the nubs on the outboard side so the lid will seat correctly (this process takes the nubs a little more outboard than usual)
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6) Drill the lid
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7) Lower the lid, put washer on, and mark with a sharpie where you want the hole for the pin to be and where you want to cut the excess shaft material off, then remove and do such.
8) place the nub/pin set up back on and smile!

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Symmetry

show off......you really should be studying!!!!!!

Good stuff evil. Love the why pay when you can fabricate methodology....

Nice job Mike!

How do you lift the lid? Get your fingertips in the gap and work it up, or are you going to put some kind of a loop/handle on the lid to lift by?

The lid has the lip removed in the center to clear the CIS air boot so it is easy to open. I may attach the pins with fishing leaders and JB weld the washers in place. We will see, I want stand for tacky.

I used 1/4 X 20 Standoffs , but drilled another hole in the rubber support, left rubber in same positon. Found some "cone" shaped Ricer license plate screws that were 1/4 X 20.

Left torsion bars on engine lid until I changed it to a GT style lid (will eventually put torsions bars in GT lid).

Nice work Mike! This gets me thinkin! ( I dont' do that often)....

Nice combo idea. Might save a few pounds and get rid of some useless and antiquated technology on that wornout trunk system

clever.

thanks!

Sweet!