Fellas:
I'm at my wits end... I seriously thinking about taking it to my local mechanic to let him figure it out.
Here's the history:
'76 2.0 L (stock). Got it in August. Hadn't been started in 4 years.
Replaced (new): fuel lines, fuel filter, all 4 injectors, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, coil, resealed the gas tank, changed oil and filter, tranny fluid, battery was new in August, replaced vacuum lines and even put in Pertronix Ignitor (suggested by Brad, did that today).
When I tried to start it, it turned over and started and ran very rough only for about 5 seconds and died.
I did this about 10 times and then when I tried it, it wouldn't even turn over! I hear the fuel pump buzz when I turn the key, but it's won't turn over at all. Just when I thought I was getting somewhere - dammit!!!
Do you guys have any ideas why it won't turn over now and also why it was running so rough?
I checked the ground strap by the tranny and I cleaned it a few weeks ago.
Please guys, I need help on this... I'm really frustrated.
Thanks,
Andy...

Check your battery, battery connections. Check the relay under the passenger seat or by-pass that relay. Oh and check the ground. things always come loose.

Make sure the dizzy didn't come up and out of drive dog engagement on you. If you didn't get that clamp secured properly, it's a distinct possibility.

I'm thinking out loud here so bear with me, I'm hoping to hit on something you haven't checked. (I went through this same thing just recently). I don't know your level of knowledge, so excuse me if I keep the below items as sinple as possible + I don't want to offend you.

1.\ I wonder what condition the ignition switch is in, i.e the plastic part that is in the ignition console. Is it cracked? "This was my problem" "Once replaced worked great and ran / started every time I may add. Before the fuel pump would come on then nothing from the starter.


Things to double check on rough run

2.\ Is the throttle position sensor set correctly?
(see pelicanparts 914 tech section)

3.\ Fuel pressure set to 28 -30 or so lbs?

4.\ Timing dead on?

5.\ Did the car run before with just standard points or that wasn't tried, i.e fresh points, condensor, etc?

6.\ Hose / vacuum leaks. Clamp everything! Even new hoses can leak.
(This usually causes high idle) once the car is running. Make sure all the hoses are in their proper places.
(See Pelican parts 914 tech section)

7.\ Check MPS. Does it hold vacuum, hose loose ?? Suck on the end of the (MPS) (part that the hose connects to). If you can draw air through it, its most likely toast.

8.\ Pulled all the relays In the back on the board and reset them back in?
(maybe corrosion)?

I think your issue is something really simple. It could be a combination of the above.

I also believe that your problem is in the ignition switch ( the plastic replaceable part)

More experienced guys,..you can chime in.

Is there any click from the starter at all? You say the fuel pump runs, do the lights and radio and such work?

I would try to isolate it:

Mechanical: (IE: engine is physically locked.)
Electrical: (Starting system - No power to starter etc)

First, try to figure out if the engine will manually turn, if not you have internal engine problems.

If it will turn manually and the starter is not clicking, it is time to dig into the wiring diagram.

If the starter is clicking, and the engine is not locked up, I would say starter time.

are you sure the internals of the engine are in good condition?

Oh and to clarify:

It has only run for a few seconds ever since you had it?

or

This problem started after the pertronix?

Fellas:
Thanks for the replies.... it's half time, so I got a few minutes.... GO PACK!
I have the charger on the battery now.
There is no sound at all when I try to start it.
I am using a remote starter.
It has only run for a few seconds ever since I've had it.
I'm pretty sure this is an electrical issue. I'll check for lights tomorrow.
I did not pull the dizzy out and I can see the rotor turning.

Forget about the dizzy. I thought you meant that it just wouldn't turn over (fire). Reading it again, and with the update it's apparent that your not even getting the starter to crank it over. When it gets charged, give us another update.

So, where we at with this?

Double check that the remote starter isn't bad too..........

Sorry guys... no quality 914 time today... maybe tomorrow....
Thanks,
Andy...

Hey Fellas:
Now that the Christmas thing is over, I am finally getting out to the garage to work on the 914....
Thanks for hanging in there with me.
OK, I've verified the engine is not locked up. I put the charger on the battery and I can get it to turnover, fire right up and run very rough for 5-10 seconds. This is where I was at a few months ago. The remote switch is OK too although now I am turning the key to start it.
It's basically doing the same thing it was a few months ago before I replaced everything (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, all filters, fuel lines, coil, injectors, etc.)
Once (today) when I trurned the key, I got no dash lights at all and no fuel pump buzz either. I tapped on the battery terminal with a hammer (lightly) and then it fired up. Adding the Pertronix didn't seem to effect it at all (good or bad), so I think it's some electrical thing.
I'll try to locate the relay someone mentioned under the passenger seat and take a look at the other things you guys mentioned a few days ago.
Any other thoughts?
Thanks guys!
Andy

Do you have a cold start system still in place? (injector, aar..ect..)

What if the cold start injector was allowing it to fire, then as it stops working, low fuel flow???

Timing too advanced

TPS as said up thread, even possible that it's not making any contact on the idle switch, at all, or moved to an enrichment position by rotating a bit.. maybe to a worn area on the contacts.


M

Woo-hoo!, finally some progress...
I ended up taking the muffler(s) off, thinking they might be rusted up or packed with mouse nests after sitting for 4 years.
It sarted up immediately and actually ran and stayed running this time!!
After it ran for about 5 minutes (not 5 seconds this time), then the rpms started to jump from 500 to 3000 and at the same frequency (ie: it was doing it very consistantly).
I tried wiggling and then removing most (not all) of the vaccum lines (all new), and it didn't run any smoother.
This seems to me to be a vacuum issue (due to the regularity of the jumping), but could it be fuel related? I do have new fuel lines, new injectors new fuel lines, resealed tank and new fuel filter. I have not been able to get my hands on a fuel pressure tester yet.
Oh yeah, I think I still have the occasional no start problem too. That happened to me once this afternoon. When I tapped the battery terminals and reached under the passenger side seat, it would turn over fine. Someone mentioned a relay under the seat. What does this do? Can I get to it without removing the seat?
Any new ideas, given this update? It looks like I'm chasing 2 different problems here.
I'll also look into the other suggestions mentioned below.
Redshift: can you give me more specific info on your cold start comment below? I'm not sure where to look.
Thanks for the help guys!
Andy...

Hmm... excellent shot on the muffler... would have escaped me for a while too..

I stray away from the cold start idea now, looks like you found a back pressure problem..

Sounds like you are a muffler thingy (fix or replace) and some vac hacking from a runner..

Start over at the top of the list, you got one problem knocked down.


M