I picked up a nice dash pad recently that has zero cracks but is pretty dirty. I'd hate to clean it up just to see it crack before my eyes. Any suggestions on cleaning/preserving techniques before I do damage?

Thanks,
Kev

Kev,

How about a pic of the starting point?

Whatever you do - do not use even the mildest of solvent on this thing!!!!!!
Never let even the wimpiest sovent-based fluid touch any of the interior pieces, as it will have some melting effect. As much as I love it, I wouldn't even let Simple Green near it.

Start of with a cleaning agent that is as close to pH neutral. I live household dishwashing liquid such as Ivory or Palmolive, diluted to a couple of drops per quart to start. See how several washings at the same strength will do. Don't soak the part - wipe it down with the solution, wipe off with a cloth soaked in clear water, dry & inspect. It will (from the sound of it) take several cleanings.

Once it's clean, then it's time to judge the motherload of protective agents that you will undoubtedly get from this group! We should discuss that later, after the pad is thoroughly cleaned.

Aside from the pic, we need to know whther this pad was recently removed, or has been sitting around off of a car. They can take on different charachteristics if they haven't ben bolted down for a while & you'll need to be careful re-installing it, lest you crack it. Remember, this part is ancient! Needs to be handled like your 95 year old grandmother until its installed.
Pat

Pat,
I used a little Palmolive as suggested and took alot of gunk off but didn't get any photos of the before condition. Anyway, not sure if what is left is residue from some preservative or a wax. Where do I go next? The pad was removed a few weeks ago. It was a Craigslist purchase, dashpad and kneepad for $200 so I jumped on it. I probably won't be installing it for a few months as my car is headed for the paint booth.
Kev

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
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looks a little faded....

Pat is dead on- you are dealing w/ a very fragile, 95 yr old woman. Treat the pad like flooring guys treat wood; acclimate the car & the pad w/ each other before installation. I would recommend installing it inside, out of the sun & at 85 to 90 degrees farenheit. Uncomfortably warm for you, but less chance of anything cracking & too cold to melt anything. Also, dashboards are just like headders in that you'll have to go back a couple of times & re-tighten everything up over the miles/yrs.

Sure, it's a little faded. But it isn't cracked. What appears to be fading is no more than lack of plasticisers (sp) in the surface. It'll look great when finished.

And, Al is right - acclimate all mating pieces to the same temp. Warm is good, but not direct solar heat.

Here's what I would do next. You've cleaned it up pretty well, but do it again. This time use a very soft bristled brush with the cleaning agent (I'd suggest using a shaving brush, or something similar - soft), and doing it in smallish segments. Don't think you have wax on it, just ground in grime & solar effects.

I wouldn't treat it with anything until it's installed because your hands are likely to make a mess of it during the install (this isn't easy, particularly if you have an old back). We can discuss various treating goos that most everyone has after it's installed, though I'd be hard pressed to recommend the "peanut butter approach".

When it comes time to install it, do so as you would a cylinder head or wheel. Finger tighten the nylon nuts (can't remember if there are 7, 8 or 9 of them), then torque them down (don't think there is a recommended torque setting for these) in any kind of modified star pattern you can make. This will be important to keep the dash from cracking during the install, or later.

Just remember, these parts are OLD, and getting brittle. They can crack when you least expect it. My original cracked while sitting in a windowless garage, in the middle of July. It was 5 years old. My replacement is (knock on wood) doing OK 30 years after, but I'm waiting for the surprise!
Pat

Sort of on Topic but is ther any differance between early /4 & /6 tops and late?
I thought there was a slight diff. in patiular since early cars had no side vents and I thight the was a subtle differance in around the ashtray?

I believe when dash vents appeared on later cars the width of the glove box door changed. As a result the indent in the pad above the box which accepts the open door also changed.

Pat, ya big tease!!

C'mon pat, humor those of us who might be one step ahead of Kevin in this process...

OK, OK!

Remember the peanut butter on the rubber thread? I tried it! Got a serious tongue rash, because I'm a peanut butter freak.

That aside, the cure for the dashpad is.........chicken fat! Boil up a couple of birds & scrape off the fat. Let it harden a bit & then rub it all over the dashpad. You may want some grits to go with it, though.

Seriously.......I actually ONCE put Armorall on my dashtop (many years ago). It went straight to the windshield on a warm day - not recommended. Don't even ask me about the time I put it on my seats before an autocross!

I've used Meguiars Intensive Protectant, and hear that Griot's has a better product. But let's discuss the real problem here - loss of plasticizers.

There is no product I'm aware of that will replace those boogers, and those are the guys that keep the plastic/vinyl pliable.

I don't like to be the bearer of bad news, but you can't protect a dashtop forever. When the plasticizers go south, the material gets brittle. You can improve its appearance, but it will eventually crack. My first top cracked in the garage, when it was only 7 years old. My current one is now almost 30 years old, with no cracks yet, but any day......

Is there a mystery brew to renew the loss of plasticizers? Haven't heard of one.

If my 914 were a driver, I'd keep a cheap dash cover on it. Might help, might not.

Nope, no mystery cures here.

How about you guys?

Pat

my now recently sold 73 Driver had a perfect uncracked dash and I owned it
15 years!!!! A record for me and any car.
I had a formed black loop carpet cover on it/over it.
It looked decent and could be removed in a sec. when desired.
I had one of those plastic cover jobbies but didnt like the fit and sold it.

Back to my other Q: can a late dash pad be used in place of an early on those cars or is there interferance issues.

As per my post above, I "think" there is a minor difference. If my recall is accurate, the early pad has a longer indent to receive the open glove box door. That should mean that the early pad would work with a late narrower glove box (one on a "vented" dash face). An early box door would not open as far with a late pad on top. I suspect you would never know the difference.

I have an early pad on my '70 and will measure the indent if you like. If you have a late one to measure we will have the answer (or maybe I'm just imagining all this!)

I believe the use of Armorall is a known product that most Concours people will avoid.
The product made by the makers of Lexol leather care products, known as Vinylex, is a much better alternative. I have used this for nearly 20 some years, and have never had a dashpad crack or turn ugly with warping or discoloration.

John Paterek, the Porsche Concours Guru, heartily recommends the use of this product......just look at the cars he has that he uses these products on !

If not mistaken, the Vinylex product uses a different approach to preservation. I believe I was told a number of years ago, the consistency of their recipe, differs greatly from the competition. The oily look does not become a permanent part of your dash.....it has a very different look to it when put on, dried off, and does not shed the vinyl vapors up and onto your glass like the others.

Great stuff.....I do believe of everything else I have used, this is by far the least likely to do damage. IN FACT, it seems to be the most likely to restore, beautify, and preserve an old dash, other than a complete recovering would.

Gp to Panorama magazine, or to Excellence if you cannot find it locally at an autoparts supply house. A company that sells to all Porsche people, called Car Care Specialty Products ?, and advertises in both magazines , is a good source for Vinylex. They are on the east coast.

Best Wishes on the preservation of another teener !

I've been researching this further and came across this thread, nice! Looks like a great option for both cleaning and recoloring the dash vinyl, etc.

I just want it to known that my last comment was not meant to condone the use of Armorall products for anything! Far from it! I last tried the product in 1975 on my 914 - lesson learned. Tried the product they make for tires about 5 years ago on my daily driver. Made the tires look greasy & ruined my driveway. To this day, I can still see four overspray areas on the drive. Water beads nicely on them!

IMO, Armorall has made crap products since they began, but it was in the gift bags for years (maybe still) for Parade entrants. People use it. Some people swear by it. To each his own, but I think every product they make is crap.

Everyone has thier own juice. I happen to like Meguiars products & have had no negative effects in over 20 years. To each, I would just say - no Armorall!

I went ahead and ordered the cleaner and Porsche-black Surflex, I'll report back with results.