I'm in the process of replacing the stock latch on my front trunk lid with hood pins. To avoid hitting the bracing on the fiberglass lid, the pins need to be in at least 3.5 inches from the front and from the edge of the hood toward the headlight.

I riveted in a piece of aluminum angle between the "gutters" in the appropriate place and attempted to install a hood pin in this angle. However the pin is too high (even threaded all the way down) and at the wrong angle (Tilted too far forward). The angle matters because the clearance on the scuff plate is only about 0.62 inches.

I'm about to fabricate a custom bracket to hold the pin at the right level and right angle. Before I spend a lot of time bending metal, does anyone have a photo of how this should be done?

See

Here's how Josh did it on Kermee.Click to view attachment

Now, consider keeping the safety latch in the middle...I managed to take a short ride forgetting the pins (just can't get good help these days) and BAM! Fractured the hood. I put the latch back on but gutted the main release mechanism keeping the safety latch.Click to view attachment

I kept the factory latch too. Eric Shea thinks everyone should!

Thanks Jim...Bill the first picture is mine. I used nylon spacers....The pin is at 19 degs. so the hole does not have to be longated. The nice thing about the nylon on top and bottom is you can rotate the nylon shims to make fine adjustments front to back and side to side. The Kelly-Moss 914-6 GT build had the pins straight up from the gutters and just kinda bend (or bow) the fiberglass hood as it was put down. Best, Mark

Glad you responded: I have a question; what is the material ( part) you used for the collar. If I go into the Hardware store, what am I looking for ? And how did you set up the piece to cut it at the 19 degree angle ?
Really liked your set up; getting ready to do this

One other question: what size hole in the hood for the pin ? Any issues in drilling through ?

Thanks....

One other thing to watch out for is the reinforcing rib on the underside of the hood interfering with the pin nut...

Good morning Jim. the nylon collars are from the local hardware store. The size is 1 inch by 3/8th with a 3/8 hole (hole needs to be drilled a little larger for the pins. I took the collar and marked about an 1/8 on the bottom, then on a belt sander, sanded at an angle from the top on the left down to the mark on the right. Just a simple test, then made four more for the two pin set up (very easy). The hole for the hood...made a little paper template cut at a 71 deg. angle and taped to hood just above hole placement( which is determined by your pin scuff plates and placement. Drill small pilot hole all the way through....Then to the size needed for your pins. Only issue is the bottom hole in the hood support will need to be larger to fit the nut/nylon collar, also easy. After all fitted, took apart and paint all the bare metal, reassemble. Hope this helps. Best, MarkClick to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment Click to view attachment

Like Bills, my pins would not thread down all the way. Had to take to the machine shop to extend the threads.

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/the9146gt_hood...les_nurburgring

I'm wondering if you can get away with just two pins in the hood. Is it really necessary to install four? Thanks for the pics Lawrence. They are really helpful. I have also seen at least one small padlock used instead of a pin to secure the trunk.
Cheers, Elliot

my is the original steel hood, only two pins....Fiber glass needs four if your going to be a track speeds.

Mark, Thanks for all the additional specs

Your welcome Jim, have a fun summer. Mark

? Alignment of holes; hood and gusset. Would it be practical to get the alignment by mounting the gussets and hood plates first; close the hood;then drill a pilot hole through the hood pin plate ( st a right angle to the hood) to the gusset ? Then go back and enlarge each hole as needed.?

Yup, top to bottom.....middle hole again will be enlarged later so not a big deal. That will tell you pin position. I made the top hole in hood a little bigger so the scuff plate was the true alignment . Mark

I reread your question.....I would not mount the scuff plate...position and mark hole., as you go through drilling you would scratch you scuff plate, and again that hole should be a little bigger. Mark

Beyond your question: I only use two-pins up front and my hood (does not have "rib" reinforcement) is simply flat glass. I drive at a higher rate of speed - no problem here with it moving around or shearing off. I would suggest you consider using 14-gauge SS plate for the strike/backing plate...the aluminum piece first used easily "grooved" after repeated use (just a thought)!

PS: If you are driving on-track...I would suggest you use the .250" pins pictured below. Tech will not pass the quick-clip wire style retainers at our events.

Tony




Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Thanks ! I Have a clearer picture now. Gonna do the two plate/pin set up. On a copper car four would be too loud unless I painted the plates the car color.

Couple of mock-up pics...

Just my opinion Jim but I think your car looks much better without the pins. Are you doing this because you're concerned about hood security or is it just something to do? I would leave them off and am re-considering installing the pins on my car. I doubt I'll do it.

Jim, you have the upper plates laid out wrong to my eye.

Two pins on Kermee, good for over 150mph at Daytona...

A very smart Porsche guy told me the only authentic use of hood pins on a 914 front bonnet is when you have a fiberglass hood. Same thing goes for the rear rubber latches on the rear trunk lid.

I think that is sound policy.

Both my trunk lids are fiberglass. Maybe I should re-think this. But then again my car rarely sees 150 MPH.

Not sure if this was noted earlier in this thread but the original GT hood pins were tapered and not simply a domed cylinder. The taper takes care of most angle issues as the hood and strike-plates can be loweresd down on the smaller tapered top and by the time the hood is seated, the hood pin plate holes are snug against the full bore of the hood pin. Mine are aluminum and easy to taper slightly on a lathe or drill press / I have never had an issue with four pins.

More images:

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/factory_oem_91...runk_lids_repro

More.....

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/factory_oem_91...trunk_lids_pins

to nice to be drilling hole in and there hideous

I`d rethink that one,but it is your car have fun