The crank aqnd cam are installed in the case half. I linned up the timing marks and tried to spin them together. they will go to a certain point and then stop before making it 360*.

It spins freely up until the point it stops.

Should it go all the way around?

Thank's, Keith

It should go all the way around. Something isn't right...

--DD

OK, where should I start trouble shooting?

Found the prob. . A cam gear bolt was hitting the case.

Should there be a washer behind the bolt head?

If so, what type of washer?

There where no washers in the cam box.

Keith

You have to be careful here not only do you have to clear the case you have to clear the oil pump gear as well. Mock this baby up before you get to fare along.

What are you doing for an oil pump? The oil pump, cam gear and bolts are all critical!

If one bolt hit the case they ALL should have, since they are the same length.

The heads of the gear cam bolts should be the low profile type. If they are too tall they may hit the oil pump.

Are you re-using an OEM cam gear? If so, it was designed to be riveted on (no bolt heads). You should either be using a cam gear that was designed to be bolted on, or you need to counterbore the holes in the OEM cam gear for the bolt heads to sit down in.

I am using the stock pump. I will mock it up before I close up the motor.

One bolt was a touch loner than the rest, that's the one that ws hitting BUT I could feel a couple others rubbing once I knew what was going on.

What type of washers are suppposed to be behind the cam gear bolts? Lock or star?

Should the cam gear bolts be flush with the back face of the cam when tightened?

How long are the oil pump bolts? Should they be flush with the inside of the case when installed?

No washers. the term I have always used is "spot face" the gear at each hole.
2 options take to Machinist and try to explain it to him and chance messing it up.
or buy the right one from DAT GUY in Georgia.

It came from DAT guy in Georia. An RAT 9550.

It's the backside of the bolts that are the problem. They are hitting the inside of the case underneath the double thrust cam bearing.

If NO washers are necassary then the bolts are too long. The potrude out of the backside of the cam after the gear is bolted on.

Did you get the cam gear from Jake as well? Or are you reusing a stock one. This is important.

It came from DAT guy in Georia. An RAT 9550.

DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And yea Mark has a good point.

gear is from Jake too.

I had the same issue when building my engine. All my stuff was from Jake too. I just got my dremmel with a cutting wheel and shortened the bottom of the bolts a little... of course making sure that there were no burrs or metal splinters left, or anything that would come off in the block.

Mike

Some cases have the interference issues more than others due to the casting changes for some engine codes..

Here is my solution


My new billet replacement pumps are almost ready for testing. These will eliminate all associated compatability challenges as well as the related difficulties that some can experience and it's even a better pump with a tool steel pump cover that resists wear.

Thank's for the info Jake.

how much is the pump?

How is the 36-1 wheel project coming?

I am going to use one on my motor but have to make an adapter. Your bolt on wheel sounds real good AND a good price.

Keith