I got the new switch in today, stripped the steering colum & started to re-assemble and came across this problem, there is a lip on the outside edge of the new switch that won't let it slide into the barrel housing. Has anyone ran into this? Everything else is correct but that lip. Is this a "one size fits all" aftermarket or the wrong switch? I can cut the lip off and buff it down to fit, but I thought I'd see if anyone knows something about this first. Pic attached. Please answer asap, I wanna get the column back together and get back on the road.
Full Version: 74 2.0 Ignition switch
mine went out. i decided to eliminate it as a flaw point.
all i did was hot wire the starter from the 2nd pin on the solinoid, bringing the wire into the cabin to the dash.
then i pulled power from the main line with another wire.
i have to turn the key to the on position, so it's still switched. i touch the two wires and fire up the car.
then i ordered a push-button switch that fits in the cigarette lighter hole ('cause i don't smoke), and BAM!
come on, hot wire that sucker and get back on the road!
pfb
all i did was hot wire the starter from the 2nd pin on the solinoid, bringing the wire into the cabin to the dash.
then i pulled power from the main line with another wire.
i have to turn the key to the on position, so it's still switched. i touch the two wires and fire up the car.
then i ordered a push-button switch that fits in the cigarette lighter hole ('cause i don't smoke), and BAM!
come on, hot wire that sucker and get back on the road!
pfb
I also replaced my switch recently (74 2.0L).
I think you ordered the wrong part.
You ordered: 111-905-865L-M5350 Dansk $4.50
You need: 111-905-865K-M61 Aftermarket $7.50
Check out their web site (photos), call them and get the right one.
Tim
I think you ordered the wrong part.
You ordered: 111-905-865L-M5350 Dansk $4.50
You need: 111-905-865K-M61 Aftermarket $7.50
Check out their web site (photos), call them and get the right one.
Tim
Just a little advice the aftermarket Ign. switchs are junk pay a little more and get a OEM one I have had problems with them for years on VW's, 914 etc.
Also make sure the key tumbler side isn't worn....
Also make sure the key tumbler side isn't worn....
QUOTE(pin31 @ Sep 19 2007, 09:22 AM) 
I also replaced my switch recently (74 2.0L).
I think you ordered the wrong part.
You ordered: 111-905-865L-M5350 Dansk $4.50
You need: 111-905-865K-M61 Aftermarket $7.50
Check out their web site (photos), call them and get the right one.
Tim
Yes, you are right. Dave Darling PM'd me. He will look into it when he gets to work. I didn't order by part number. I ordered for a 74 914 2.0. Pelican shipped the wrong part.
QUOTE(Plaindaner @ Sep 19 2007, 09:49 AM)
QUOTE(pin31 @ Sep 19 2007, 09:22 AM)
I also replaced my switch recently (74 2.0L).
I think you ordered the wrong part.
You ordered: 111-905-865L-M5350 Dansk $4.50
You need: 111-905-865K-M61 Aftermarket $7.50
Check out their web site (photos), call them and get the right one.
Tim
Yes, you are right. Dave Darling PM'd me. He will look into it when he gets to work. I didn't order by part number. I ordered for a 74 914 2.0. Pelican shipped the wrong part.
Looked it back up, you are right. the 865K didn.t have a pic. I should have held off ordering until I had the switch out. Thx for your help.
actually there were four over the years. 70-early 71 with the wires, late 71, 72-74, 75-76 (with the shoulder, same as vw jetta and rabbit) and of course 914-6. One has to beware of the 72-74 these days as the slot is too large and the key will not engage the starter after installation of this new switch. Beware. It is usually the under ten buck switches that have this problem.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.