So the floor boards in my car near the rear of the firewall are rusted through. I took my car to a guy that rebuild old cars, and he is very good with rust repair and such. He said it will be $700 plus he will put in the Engman kit for me. I am going to do it after the AX season is over, but I promise I will post pics of the before and after.

Oh... Side note for all you guys dealing with rust. He told me that POR-15 isn't as good as people make it out to be. He told me that it really only bonds to the rust, and not to the metal. He told me of a product that he uses call zero rust, and he said it is the best thing to use for a rust repair as it neutralizes, covers, and bonds. Just thought I would mention that for you guys to look into.

POR makes another product you can use to prep clean metal, I can't remember the name, but it makes the POR-15 bond to clean metal just fine

Metal Ready

That's great and all, but he said zero rust is just one application and you're done. He showed me a trailer that he had cover five years ago. You can see all the rust pits from when it was rusty, but it felt strong still and looked good too.
Oh.. It is also thin enough that you can shoot it too so you don't have any brush stroks in there.

I think it's because a lot of people don't realize you need to use Metal Ready to prep all the metal and rusted areas before applying any POR15 paint. The paint alone isn't going to help (to my knowledge). Never used Zero Rust but have heard good things.

Exactly. I've been very happy with the stuff, but you have to treat the rust with their Metal Ready product (converter) before applying the Por15 primer paint.
Or even better, remove the rust and then apply the Por15 stuff.

I'm not trying to be their spokemsan, but according to the label you can also shoot Por15,
and when applying with a brush there aren't any brush strokes left behind.
It's also makes a great dessert topping!


I think they should give me a couple free cans of the stuff after this post...

I like the Eastwood stuff better. I've seen comparison tests some body shop did with it vs. POR and it gave a much better final finish and withstood the elements better. The POR actually started bubbling on the edges when left outside while the Eastwood stuff didn't. The Eastwood product also didn't require any etcher like POR does.

Having used both, I thought the Eastwood stuff went on better and it was cheaper. I wouldn't use POR-15 again. My Dad has used zero-rust in the past on his truck and liked it.

That sounds like a pretty good price for all that welding work! You'll like the inner long kit. You should probably take out the seam sealer around the perimeter of the floor and do some test fitting before you hand he car off to him.

I like the Eastwood product too.

I have used both Por and Eastwoods on my car. If I had to do it again, I'd just use the Eastwoods.

Zach

I was planning on that. I was thinking I would take all the interior down to metal and shoot it with a primer that he said to use as you can weld through it. He told me all the stuff to do to keep the cost down as he is only charging me for labor. He is a good family friend. I am glad I remembered him when I needed this done as I think he will do a better job than most body shops would.