I've done brake jobs before, but this is the first one I've done on a 914. It's a good thing I started out on Honda's and had a working knowledge of brakes! Anyway, the tech article from Pelican was awesome and they weren't kidding about stripping the inner-piston-adjustment-screw-cover on the rear caliper. One came off fine, but the other needed a removal of the entire caliper and an easy-out. "DAMN" I said to myself, "this parts gonna be hard to replace." Well, I can't seem to find it. Anybody have a pair of the aftermarket ones they want to part with? I put a bolt in it for now. It could be a permanent fix, but it kills me to think it's in there!
Chris
Full Version: Rear Brake Caliper
QUOTE(Cjllong @ Sep 26 2007, 10:11 PM) 
I've done brake jobs before, but this is the first one I've done on a 914. It's a good thing I started out on Honda's and had a working knowledge of brakes! Anyway, the tech article from Pelican was awesome and they weren't kidding about stripping the inner-piston-adjustment-screw-cover on the rear caliper. One came off fine, but the other needed a removal of the entire caliper and an easy-out. "DAMN" I said to myself, "this parts gonna be hard to replace." Well, I can't seem to find it. Anybody have a pair of the aftermarket ones they want to part with? I put a bolt in it for now. It could be a permanent fix, but it kills me to think it's in there!
Chris
all of the rear caliper parts are commonly available Chris
the only problem i have with the caliper plug with the hex head is that you cannot rotate the caliper because the hex head doesn't clear the hole in the trailing arm. that is, if you remove one caliper mounting bolt and loosen the other, the caliper is prevented from moving because the hex head hits the side of the adjusting hole so you have to remove the whole caliper. this would be what happens if you needed to replace the rear disc rotor. but the hex head cover is better than nothing.
I use the Volkswagen Fuel Filter Plug that Mr. Ed turned me on to. Since I discovered that I've never gone back to the 10mm hex. I agree with Jim, the hex can be a pain as the tolerances are that close. However, there is a permanent solution.
Here's the scoop:
Plug Number = N 016 024 1
Seal Number - N 013 811 5
Both together will cost less than the PP piece @ just over $3.00 for each side.
Why the factory piece fails:
1. The 4mm hex engagement is no match for the surface area of the threads... now add rust. 95% fail.
2. The depth of the 4mm hex is not sufficient to overcome the issues above.
Enter the Volkswagen piece:
* 5mm hex. That 1mm makes a "world" of difference.
* Nearly twice the depth again makes a huge difference.
* No clearance issues with the control arm.
* For the nostalgia buffs, it looks like the original plug.
Use this and never look back. Your local VW dealer will either have it in stock or can get it in two days.
Dave, Glenn, if you're watching, turn Wayne on to these part numbers. He could probably source them and sell them cheaper than the 10mm units.
Here's the scoop:
Plug Number = N 016 024 1
Seal Number - N 013 811 5
Both together will cost less than the PP piece @ just over $3.00 for each side.
Why the factory piece fails:
1. The 4mm hex engagement is no match for the surface area of the threads... now add rust. 95% fail.
2. The depth of the 4mm hex is not sufficient to overcome the issues above.
Enter the Volkswagen piece:
* 5mm hex. That 1mm makes a "world" of difference.
* Nearly twice the depth again makes a huge difference.
* No clearance issues with the control arm.
* For the nostalgia buffs, it looks like the original plug.
Use this and never look back. Your local VW dealer will either have it in stock or can get it in two days.
Dave, Glenn, if you're watching, turn Wayne on to these part numbers. He could probably source them and sell them cheaper than the 10mm units.
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