Question 1) Should one use lock-tite when installing an exhaust stud?

Question 2) If so, which version?

I have heard 'Yes' and I have heard 'No'. Locktite red is the stuff you will need heat to remove, but there is the conundrum, Heat.

No, go by your local Wurth dealer and buy the copper locknuts. They work great. Much better than any other option.

he is trying to reinstall an exhaust stud... not nuts.


just make sure the threads are CLEAN. loctite will only work if it is clean!

The temperature that stud sees (exhaust temp 1200 - 1600 degrees) will prolly negate the locking ability of the non-aerobic thread sealer .... so, just screw it in till it bottoms and don't overstress it. Use the copper "crushed" nuts for locking purposes.

I use anti-sieze, which prolly doesn't do much good but it makes me feel better!

DOH, reading owns me. Never mind.

Beating a dead horse here, and wondering why so many guys who appear otherwise knowledgeable keep saying "copper nuts". THEY'RE NOT COPPER! They're copper plated steel. The Cap'n

They are a pretty coppery color

And I have those too.

Who gives a FF if they are copper coated steel ... they're "crushed nutz" and are copper colored to us guys who otherwise appear knowledgable ... which BTW, doesn't include me 'cause I don't know shit!

And rubbers** aren't rubber ... they're latex!

**Unless you're from the East, then they're "overshoes".

JB weld

Yep, I had to do that on one. I only had 2 threads left at the top of the hole that the 9mm step stud could grab, so last minute on the way to the track I JB'd it in there. I planned to fix it later when it failed, it's been 5 years and it's still in there.

A small drop of loctite won't hurt anything, but I don't think that it will help, it'll just turn into carbon.

The correct term is galoshes.

Good to see I'm not alone... I had a stud back out, didn't strip but backed itself out. I cleaned everything and JB'ed the SOB. It hasn't budged in a year.

Galoshes = Midwest Flatlander Term

I've tried various Loctite products over the years on ex. studs. 271 seems to hold okay on the studs that are under the rocker area, but not the ones closest to the chambers. I Loctite them in when I assemble heads, mostly to keep them from backing out if the the customer (or I) have to pull the exhaust off after installing it, but before running the engine.

Jake doesn't like the "Copper" nuts. He double nuts the exhaust.

Rubbers are Latex? I thought they were sheep guts.

i believe the term is 'anaerobic'..... which means you aren't knowledgeable and dont know shit LOL

Aaah, I think just about everything Ron does now a days is Non- aerobic.

I'm a , so I don't have to be correct.

Not non-aerobic, but flacid will do nicely.

FlacCid?



















Love ya Ron

who can be mad at father time?

i guess i love the old bat too LOL

So if there is a problem with the stud, the consensus seems to be JB Weld.

I had to tap one of my threads to the oversized 10mm earlier this summer. Twisted a 10 X 8 stud into the hole with a dab of jb weld on the head-side.
Still super tight after 1000 + miles. Probably will never come out.

Hope it doesn't need to

jb weld is amazing, my buddys old toyota corolla beater had a head gasket go bad and it ate away a chunk between the #3-4 cylinders. he couldn't afford a new head (it was worth more than the car) so we Jb'd the spot and had the head milled as little as possible. 4 years later and it still holds great compression in those cylinders.