Ok...

long story... here is clif notes version.

Motor built 4 - 5 yrs ago. 1971 cc. 8.0:1 motor. Web 86 medium carb cam. built with head gaskets.
euro race header, mallory dizzy, cdi, coil. 1.7 rockers with 911 swivels, solid spacers. Manton pushrods yada yada.

Motor ate a headgasket.
Craig downs did most of the work, along with john edwards my machinist (costa mesa RD - you can read him in sand sports magazine).

New top end. Heads had some cracks. John took care of that.
New motor is 9.4:1, i want to say 54cc heads (did all that a few months ago), redid sparkplug threads etc.... basic r and r.

craig mostly and i developed a new style of full flow exit from the case. instead of a pump cover with 2 extra 90 degree turns to exit the case, we bored out the stock path from the pump up to the stock filter area... made a large block off plate to a -10 braided line to a remote filter with no bypass, and then into the case using the standard brass elbow.....

works flawlessly....


anyway.
Today....
finished with all the ancilary crap. headers etc gnition is all hooked up. Optima battery still had 12 volts after sitting for 6 months.... so we put a charger on it.... more on this later.

spun the motor w/o plugs to get pressure and circulating fresh oil into the 20+ feet of front cooler lines.....

built oil pressure. hooked up plug wires and CDI box....

fired FIRST TRY!. good stuff. Nice strong sound. Carbs are pretty close from last incarnation.

its alive. rumbles like a mofo with just a stinger on the header (have to paint the GT muffler still)


bad news. Charger fell and took out a LARGE piece of paint off the car. Great....add more shit wrong with the car.


All it needs is axles and it is ready to fly to school


Thanks craig for all the help. Doing what i couldnt with my busy work/school situation.

Learn from your elders. Anything that has a chance to fall and take something with it, WILL fall.

ALWAYS expect that something will screw up.

Congrats on getting it to run.

nice. I'm right behind you hopefully.



I feel the paint chip. I too have added a few flaws to mine.

I did that to the six... before I got it painted. I think this is a common teener thing. Put the charger on the roof, run the cables to the battery. Charger slides off the roof... WHACK.

Anxious to hear more Aa.

Sounds good Aaron, but, I have to say


So, hook a brother up.

Yea

"All it needs is axles and it is ready to fly to school " - AA



. . . tell us more about school!

Thanks and welcome back. . . .

Unfortunately he has other paint issues. When it was parked next to the curb for the 6 months it reeked havoc on the pass side. Now it has water spot over the whole side
and rust spots where the cowl and fender meet.

LIFE! DO YOU HEAR ME? GIVE MY CREATION... LIFE!!!

Congrats on the pulse, nice to have it alive again.

Did you get the e-brakes done?

Yee... show us the motor.




And the damage

Explain to me why you needed to "full flow" a filter setup that's already "full flow". Just in case I missed something .......... The Cap'n

The stock arraignment doesn't filter 100% of the oil along with a lot of tight turns makes it restrictive. So by sending it out to a remote filter all the oil is filtered with less restriction. The reason the stock mount doesn't filter all the oil is because of the
soft spring in the bypass.

Awesome!!

Great work. We can take care of that paint issue. I have some rollers and rustoleum in black no less, ready to go.

Come get your CV.

Good deal homeskillet. Paint is over rated

Bummer on the paint but Excellent on the light-off....

Great news Aaron.

when the motor is cold, the oil is thick. Thick oil through the pump means very elevated pressures until the oil thins out - correct?

i also have a giant 38mm pump, and the preload relief pistons in this GA case. (needed the high volume to run a front cooler)

so when the motor is cold, making lots of oil pressure, the bypasses are open BYPASSING the stock filter.

now 100% of the oil gets filtered whether its cold or hot.

That is why krusty

Sounds good Aaron

I'd much rather have a good running car with dents in the body, than a glossy paint job on a car that doesn't run just sitting in the driveway ...

... in my case, I still have a non-running car and a dented body

Could have been done the same way with stronger OPRV springs.

And cost less

I'm glad your teener's up and rawkin again. GMR time?!

Nice Aaron. Congrats on getting the new engine going

Any pictures of the full flow mod? How long has she been sitting for? And totally unrelated, is it your senior year?

On the battery charger thing, the night before I put the final paint on my teener I knocked the charger over and put a nice dimple/scratch in the car. Luckily it was before final paint, but I was still livid the entire time I was fixing it.

Happy driving.

dorko....

to some extent - YES. but i ALREADY HAVE the oil pressure relief spring mod.

BUT... the filter console ITSELF has a bypass spring in it. eliminate the stock filter housing spring for the same effect....

Hey!!!

Thats not new- thats the first generation of full flow, I stopped using it in 1999.

The 90 degree turn at the oil pump cover is a non issue because it is right at the pump discharge and volume and pressure are not impacted by it's presence.

Coming out of the case the way that you have allows the oil pump to lose some oil volume and pressure by keeping the stock oil discharge path up to the #1 galley plug. Using this position still involves a 90 degree fitting in most situations coming out of the galley plug that has been tapped. My current method of full flow disables the passage that can have case/pump leakage issues internally and has proven to be the most effective means of true full flow, hence the reason I stepped away from the other alternatives 8 years ago.

There are many ways to "skin a cat", but some of them may not be as effective as they appear, despite their simplicity. Look at the method you have used and you will see that you really haven't removed any 90 degree turns but what you have done is open up an opportunity for an internal leak... That galley, leading up to galley #1 is the most evil part of the stock oil system.

That 38mm pump makes it worse and all it's doing is pulling HP and putting a tremendous load on the nose of the cam.

BTW_ The stock oil filter on the TIV engine is NOT full flow! It has a bypass internally as well as tiny passages that constrict the capabilities of a higher volume oil system's capability. One thing I have learned about these engines is the fact that they love continuous oil flow without obstruction and limitations imposed by the first stage of the primary oil system.

Full flow means ALL the engines oil is filtered and cooled without being limiited by the engine's oil pressure relief valve, the only way to do this is by routing all the engine's oil out of the pump, to the filter and through the cooler BEFORE the second stage of the oil system has a chance to "bleed" the oil back into the crankcase IF it is above 45-50 PSI.

Nothing I build gets the stock oil filter housing-

right - oh jake. we skinned the kat a different way.

No volume/pressure loss. We enlarged and match ported the line drive shot to the pump.... and only introduced a 45 degree transition out of the galley plug there. We exited the block where the stock filter housing bolted on.

I understand same goal, different methods. But i am not sure i buy your 'fluid dynamic' theory on the back to back 90's out of the pump cover. But i respect (and support) your opinion and your massive developments and experience.

Thanks,
Aaron

One of the biggest reason for doing it this way was because of the motor mount / oil pump cover interference

The back to back 90s actually smooth the oil pump's "surges" more than anything else, keeping the oil less aerated.

Put your hand on the feed line coming off the oil filter housing and see what you feel, thats the oil surging in the line.

Like I said, there is a reason for everything we do, most have several reasons and there is always more to a development that it may seem.

The easiest way to do something is quite often the least effective-

FYI- We still do full flow with this method for some VW Bus applications and have set up some teeners with this method as well. My new billet full flow oil pumps will have one "kit" that sets up this way, but they are only being offered for those that have otherwise bone stock engines and want the easy way out.

BTW- These new oil pumps offer double O rings (one on either side of the pick up and discharge passages) around the body to eliminate internal oil pump/case leakage as well as to keep external leakage from occuring.

These models do not illustrate the O ring grooves but they do show the altered pump body that will no longer require cam gear mods and they also show the two piece oil pump cover featuring a tool steel intermediate plate to reduce gear chatter and cover wear.