I got to enjoy my alternator quitting on me last night leaving me stranded on the side of the road so I have a question now. Can I remove the alternator from the car while the engine is still in it? Are there any clearance issues that I will have trying to remove it while the engine is still in? Any help would be great as I am trying to replace my alternator where the car sits instead of having to trailer it home Please let me know! Thanks
-Chris

Yes you can remove it. I see you have a '70 and a '75. Which one is it?

I seem to remember having to remove the HE on my '76 to remove the alt with the engine in the car. It wasn't too bad, because the exhaust manifold upstream stays on the head... you just separate the HE from the 3 bolt flange.

I've since backdated to early style exhaust. Checking it out, it looks like if you remove the heater ducts directly below the alternator, you have good access....

So anyway, if you install a fully charged battery, you should be able to drive home on the battery. Not sure how the alternator failed, so you should unplug the voltage regulator at the relay board to disconnect it from the system.....

If you're closer that 40 miles, you should make it no problem, assuming a fully charged battery and it's in the daytime. I once drove home about 45 miles after the belt broke. Even stopped for beers half way, and it started right up and took me home.

good luck,
Jim

A fully charged battery will take you 250 miles with NO lights. With lights on, figure about 50 miles.

Thanks. Good to know. I just had my one 45 mile datapoint.....

Tuscon, AZ to Phoenix, AZ with a stopover to try and change alternator ... then off to about 10 miles west of Blythe, CA and it quit.

Blythe to Banning, CA on a battery pack.

Banning to Riverside with lights on.

If you have a center console, when the guage approaches 10 VDC start looking for another battery 'cause it's gonna quit at 9.5 VDC.

I got it home with a fresh battery around sundown so I luckily made it home before I would need my headlights I'm going to be looking into getting the alternator rebuilt. Thanks for all the input!
-Chris

It was the '75. I have a set of headers that don't have any heat exchangers on them and the run straight back out of the heads so I don't think I will have any clearance issues there

You DO NOT need to remove the HE to get the alternator out. It does help if you remove the J tube, the Y shaped piece of the heater ducting, and the heater flapper-valve. You will also need to remove the tin around the bottom of the fan, if I remember correctly (at least I had to remove some tin from the bottom to get the job done). It is not too bad of a job, I have done it a couple of times now.

Good Luck!

Just did this on my '76. It has backdated HE and no heat. I rermoved the upper corner tin and the lower and the lower fan cover. Jack it up and do it from the bottom. Only probley really was that it was a little tight to get the cover off the alternator to unplug the wiring. Leave the top long bolt in and let it swing down. Too heavy to hold with one hand. Lots of fun and some amount of cussing.

If you're gonna replace it (and I would), use a genuine Bosch Reman unit, and mind the length of the (+) stud on the back. It's often too long, and must be trimmed to clear the back cover. The Cap'n

So, when's the alternator swap BBQ?

--DD

Can I ask why you're sure it's the alternator that has died? I'm sure you checked the obvious stuff like the belt, fuses, voltage regulator, etc.

Had the bearings been whining for a long time, suddenly followed by something worse on the last drive?

I'm just curious, as I've never actually had an alternator die in a 914 (knock'n on wood). I've used some nasty, crusty old alts over the years too. I splurged and bought a reman during the last engine build, so I'm hopeful that my lucky trend will continue.