My engine is seperated into its major components. (Motor (2056 T4), Mallory Unilite, blue coil, carbs, linkage, low pressure fuel pump, engine tin, alternator). The engine is built. But the mallory is off it, the tin is off, the carbs are off, etc.

I want to put it together, and test run it on Oct 20th before I install it into the car.

I know that I am going to need a battery and wire to run the starter, fuel pump, and plugs. I know I need new gaskets when I attach the carbs to the motor. Obviously, I am going to need gas, and new oil.

What else do I need? Help me make a checklist.

My goal is to put the major components together, pack it in my subaru, and fire it off at the Sterling meet later this month (then put the now-together motor back in my subaru, take it home, and get it in the 914).

This is a high quality wire plan for my test harness. Do I need to add anything more?
Click to view attachment

Zach

Checklist so far (bolded stuff I still need to get, non bolded I have allready):

Carb to motor seals
Basic wire harness (battery to coil, battery to pump, switched battery to starter, anything else?)
Battery (got it, but need to charge it)
Feed fuel line, Low pressure fuel filter
Gas (got it)
Oil (got it)
Engine tin screws
Test run stand (ScottyB to the rescue here, I hope)

Help me fill it in - what else do I need?

Zach

Mallory on and rough timed. carbs on and plumbed. A feed fuel line with a fuel filter on the end dropped into a gas can. Engine tin should probably be on depending on how long you intend to run it. Transaxle attached with starter in place. It is nice to hook up at least an idiot light for the oil pressure if not a gauge. Starter and ignition have to be wired up of course. I can't think of anything else but I just got up a minute ago so forgive my fog...

Tranny won't be ready. I was going to cut up a junked tranny housing and just use that to bolt the starter on. Added the fuel line and filter to my checklist.

Zach

i was thinking about building a bench test station. i'd want guages, at least oil pressure and tach. you putting the fan housing on?

it'll be pretty loud without an exhaust setup, and i'd fab up a support for it so as to not break exhaust bolts. don't forget to vent the fumes well too!

in retrospect, i would have had my carbs running perfectly before installing and firing. i think i washed 1 or more cylinders too much while screwing around tuning. (rookie me)

NOTE: If you run it more than a minute or so without an exhaust. You may very well end up with warped valves.

The reversion from the cam will suck in cold air at low RPMs. Cold air on hot valves makes for bad science.

And you will cook your push rod tubes, seals, and cook the oil in the tubes.

But the flames out of the heads on moonless night looks very kewl...

Just ask Aaron. I think he has a video of it.... And loud.. OH MY GOD.!!!!

And Zach, I was guessing you were gunna run an exhaust anyway.

I just wanted to make sure......

Is this a new engine?

Cheers and good luck..!!!

Clayton

You will need a way to shut off the engine. Put a switch in the 12V to coil.
Agreed on exhaust and fan and cooling tin.

I used an old lawn mower gas tank to the CB pump. I had the altenator wired up and voltage regulator wired as I had to test them also.
I did this with Rob Watson's engine. basic turn key.

I had the engine mount bar installed and was able to use it to secure the engine to the metal work bench with some ratchet straps. Used his transaxle also and strapped it also.

I was not planning on running my exhaust. But it would not be difficult to hook up either. Just a header, not hard... Makes sence, but I was looking forward to watching the flames. :-)



I was planning on just removing one of the alligator clips from the battery to shut it down, instead of adding another switch. I'm kinda lazy, and this seems like less work.

Zach don't bother cutting up a tranny. As of right now I will be there and I am going to bring my starter rig. If you have a known good starter bring that just in case mine fails. It's kinda old and used. If for some reason I can't make it i will let you know.

Zach, Are starting up a brand new, just rebuilt engine?

If so, I want to add to your list.

Clayton

When we bench started an engine at an NEW gathering we tried using jumper cables but never got good enough connections to get the engine to crank at a reasonable speed. Battery cables solved the problem. So you may consider using battery cables instead if you have them.

The engine is not brand new, but it is new to me. I bought it from a local guy that wanted to go suby.

Zach

Kewl...

Clayton

Zach - I have this opposite refridgerator light switch (spring loaded - current flows when pushed in) I use to use to start a car I had with ignition switch problems. I'll bring that but here's something you may not be thinking of. The starter switch probably sends current to the starter through a reley. I can't see all that current going directly through an ignition swith. I don't care about my switch, we can blow it up if you want. I also have a toggle I'll bring. We can blow that one up too. I think they were both only rated for a few amps.

You know what - I'll just bring another set of jumper cables and we'll put the starter on it's own circuit. It will eliminate the need for a reley and switch. We'll just disconnect manually after engine starts.

That sounds even easier then my idea! I LIKE IT!

Slackers of the world UNITE!

Zach

No need for a relay to start the engine. See my simple arrangement. I put 2 switches together with tape. One was mini push button and mini single pole single throw switch.

Currents from starter coil and the plug coil are not astronomical as to fry the switches. The double combo switches make it easy to turn engine on and off.

Also used a battery charger to keep the battery charged during operation.

Connected the switches to the coil with wire like lamp cord wire. Battery was still in the red car and I used the cars fuel pump for fuel supply. I connected the fuel pump to the toggle switch to turn it on and off with the engine.

Spoke

I know the temtation to run her without an exhaust BUT I've learned that the engine is so loud that if something inside the engine is banging you will not hear the noise until it is too late. I have an engine stand for run-up and I took a pair of 76 stubby exhaust manifolds with the three bolt flang and bolted to it a matching flange I got at NAPA, about 2" , and welded in an old VW exhaust tip . The tapered one that is about 1.5' and tapers out to about 2" . I put it in backwards so the big end is in the flange and the small end is open. This acts as a muffler and is a little quiet. Good Luck

I'm planning on bolting in my stub pipes, making a little carriage for the engine to ride on in my suby, and the bolting on my header and muffler for the trial run.

Just waiting for some parts I have ordered to come in. Hopefully they will be in soon. :-)

zach

Zach,

Have a video cam ready... And post it up.

I would really like to see other guys that buy unknown engines learn to do this before they bolt the engine in the car. It's easy and kinda fun....

Have at it man......

Cheers,

Clayton

When I test run the motor, do I need to have the engine tin in place?

I have the tin off, and went to degrease it over the weekend. The tin needs to be refinished, but if I do that, there is little chance of it being done by this weekend.

do I need to just slap on the crappy looking tin, or can I test the engine W/O tin, refinish the tin over the winter, and just put it on before I put the engine back in the car?

Zach

You can run it without tin for a minute or two.

Maybe longer if you have CHT gauges on both sides.

The tin is now on. Unlite is in, and rough timed. Engine is at top dead center. I need to do the valves, and fill it with oil. Its getting really close!

Zach

Zach,

What engine preparation are you doing to make sure you have oil pressure at start up...?????

Clayton

Run the starter for a few seconds before I add in the fuel and spark. Anything more that I need to do?

Zach

Plugs out, shot of oil down each cyl, spin it without plugs until pressure builds (maybe that was already your plan . . . )

Like Chris said,

I would pull all the spark plugs. Run it for a 60 seconds or so.

Put the plugs back in. Put the plug wires on. And fire the critter up.

And get ready for the smoke. If the engine has been sitting a while. They usually smoke like hell for a few minutes. So don't be alarmed if it smokes.

Zach, I wish I was there. I love lighting engines up. Don't know why.. I just do.

Giterdone Zach...!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers,
Clayton