As many of you are aware, for several years I've been converting my 1974 to a 3.2 914/6. For nearly two years it's been on jackstands. Well I'm getting close to completion, and I need to source up to date heat exchangers.

I have a set of used OEM exchangers, but the flange thickness is different, (thinner) and they won't work without spacers, or reseating all the head studs. So I need to find someone who can supply me a set that will work with a 3.2.

Any guidance will be appreciated.

I haven't installed my engine yet....but I got a pair of stainless heat exchangers for a 3.2 from GHL...they sure are pretty!

Here is a sweet set that patrick motorsports sells:

http://www.patrickmotorsports.com/part/723/

Mike,

I think you have answered your own questions. Either swap out the studs or use spacers. Given the likelihood of problems removing the old studs I would be inclined to think spacers would be the best path. I would be interested in opinions of why this wouldn't be a viable solution.

John

Hi John,

I tried the spacer route. It's hard to find the right size at a decent price. I finally located some stainless steel spacers at Fastenal. Had to order them twice, and they cost $1.25 each. After the install, the exchangers were still wobbily. I have yet to turn this beast over, but I'm sure that I'm going to have some exhaust leakage.

I know that spacer cost vs new exchanger cost makes $1.25 per spacer seem pretty cheap. I just want to make sure it's the best solution. Heck I don't even know if using OEM exchangers with a 3.2 is a good thing to do. After all, there's a lot of difference between a 2.0 liter six and a 3.2 liter six.

I appreciate your input THANKS!!

About 2 months ago I worked on a factory six that has a 3.2 transplant. It has the factory heat exchangers on it, and they work fine. They are a little smaller than optimal, but the car pulls real strong.

To put them on, we had to replace all 12 studs on the exhaust ports. It is easy to do. Just get yourself a welder and 12 8x1.25 nuts. Put the nut on the stud, and weld it in place. I used a gas welding torch. After the nuts have cooled down, just use a socket to unscrew the stud. Then replace with a shorter stud and install the heat exchanger.

Hi Clay,
Thanks for the input. This is the confidence building I need. At this point I want to DRIVE the thing, not sink another $3,600 into it!!

Mike

Mike, SnapOn has a collet style stud remover that has worked well for me but Clay's method sounds good too and the heat from the torch may actually really help in them coming out. You are planning on supporting the HE's and the muffler with a bracket at the back end, right?

John

We actually tried a collet style remover. It would not pull the studs. I think the heat had something to do with it, but I don't know for sure.

And yes, you need a 2.0L muffler bracket. It will support the muffler. Otherwise you will be ripping studs from the heads.

Another trick, when the stud is still hot, a touch of paraffin wax to it helps in the removal.

Yep, when I sold the 2.0 engine that was originally in the car I kept the muffler bracket.

Mike

One note about the stainless Six exchangers: The fit may be somewhat suboptimal. There are a few respected Six conversion experts who refuse to use anything but stock exchangers or headers due to fitment problems. Or, at least, they did last I heard.

--DD

Clay nailed it. Weld on nuts and remove studs.

People have been using the spacer trick on sixes for a long time. If its wobbling it sounds too loose. Why is it wobbeling? Try it first to see if it leaks. Then go the potiontally hazardous way of removing studs. All it has to do is hold it up...

What is so "potiontally hazardous" about removing the studs?????

If the stud brakes, and you cant get them out with vise grips and you try welding a nut and that brakes the next step gets more serious and way more envolved then adding spacers.