Hello Everyone,
I just joined the forum. I am having some problems with my car overheating. Both warning lights light up on the dash and the car over heats. Is there a common problem that the 914 is famous for in overheating?

Thanks,
Randy

I'm no good at this type of technical advice but I know enough to say: and you should tell us what year, what size motor, carbs or fuel injection...

Paul

Randy:

What are you useing to determine if it is in fact overheating. Oil temp. or Cyl.

Head Temp? If you are just useing the stock temp gauge,these are notorious

for not being accurate. What is the state of tune? If that is unknown,a good tune

up is in order.Overheating on a type 4 engine is useally linked to a lean condition.

Correct state of tune is the base to start from. Then we can help from here.

Dave

Warning lights in the dash to indicate overheating? Which lights exactly?

Like Paul said, tell us more about your car... What year, what engine, carbs/FI, etc. Any mods? Especially to exhaust system or intake system?

Do you know your timing is on? If not, it's pretty critical to get that baseline down.
Are all your engine tin pieces and seals in place? (If you aren't sure, post some pics or ask.)

for oil temps, gunked up oil cooler, cooling flaps not funtioning correctly, i've seen cyl where the cooling fin voids are packed solid with oil/fir tree needles/leaves, dirt...you name it. as rand mentioned, compartment seals, open holes in the tin, good spark plug wire end boots, even the little plastic plates that cover the alt belt tension adj holes. all 4 cyl applicable.

k

I have a 75 2.0 completely stock with fuel injection. When I was driving the car last, I drove for about 20 minutes and noticed that the temp gauge was hotter than normal and that the two little red lights on the dash were lit up. One is the EGR and the other is CAT

I would:
1. Adjust the valves and set the timing. That's a baseline you need to know.
2. Clean everything up (cooling air paths & oil cooler) and make sure the cooling tin is in decent shape and the flaps aren't stuck.
3. Rip out the smog crap and get a decent-breathing exhaust on there (eliminating the EGR and CAT variables).
4. Install a good head-temp gauge.

Then see where you are.

BUY AND INSTALL INSTRUMENTATION!!!!!

Those lights are called "idiot lights" for good reason!!

Gauges tell you how much of a problem exists and help you to solve the issue as well.

The #1 reason for overheating is an out of tune engine.

Well, I finally got a chance to look at why my engine is overheating. All three bolts that hold the fan on completely sheared off. The fan was just sitting there all loose, not doing any cooling. Does anyone know why the bolts would just break like that?
Looking forward to dropping the engine to fix the problem.

Thanks for everyone's help
Randy

The engine ever been out of the car ???

About all I can think of is someone overtorqued them and broke em' off...Probably used Home Depot bolts...Only thing hooked to the fan is the belt for the alternator...

Pull the motor and we'll get it figured out...Need to check the hub behind the fan...

2-OH!

Did smeting fall into the fan at a high rpm?

MAN!! It takes a lot to sheer those bolts, something big happened!!

I know of a case where somebody dropped an oil filter cap into the front of the engine and it wedged into the fan and sheared off all the bolts.

That sounds funny to me. Shearing 3 bolts and the locating pin seems almost impossible. These 3 bolts screw into a piece that is held in place with 1 bolt. This is keyed to the crankshaft with a woodruff key. It is also located using a tapered shaft. Did someone maybe leave out the key? When working in there, be sure not to break any fins. They are easily broken.

Ummmm, Jake. The EGR and Cat lights are linked to a mileage counter. There's no gauge I know of that'll make the message any clearer. (I'm using a "kidding" tone of voice ................... ) Yes, instrumentation is a good idea.

Now, cutting to the original question. I've seen fans fall off. Several because Bozo the Wrench left the center bolt loose, and a couple with loose or sheared bolts. I probablt have a good fan somewhere around here, and a couple of good flanges. The Cap'n

i know of a case where somebody put that engine together with alot of sweat and love...

Uhhhhhhhh....

Pull the engine / trans combo and see what carnage has occurred. (about 2 hours first time) (45 minutes second time)

We can find ya parts.......

And welcome to the insanity... REALLY.

Clayton

Thanks for the input. I plan on pulling the engine in a couple of weeks. I'll take a closer look at it and let you guys know the situation

Randy

The Cat and ERG lights are on primarily because the counter that is located in the passenger foot well has recorded a certain number of miles. The ERG counter has two re-set buttons that will stop the ERG and Cat Light from coming back on. I believe I last used a small L-shaped allen wrench to reach the buttons.

The Haynes manual shows a picture of the button(s)

It is also tru they may com on due to something else...

Well, I was able to pull the fan and hub off without dropping the engine trans out of the car. Took a look at what might have caused the bolts to break, and it looks like when I rebuild the engine the fan was not perfectly falt against the hub. The hub had worn a slight grove inside the fan. This time when I put it back together I know what to look for and make sure the fan is flat against the hub.