So I have the HEs installed and the muffler too.

I went top side to install the intake manifolds. I got the driver side in, but when I went to do the passenger side, I got this:

Click to view attachment

That silvery stuff on the intake stud is aluminum. I didn't over torque it, it never got tight at all. So the question is, am I fuched or can I relatively easily fix this?

TIA

helicoil or timesert.

Isnt that hard... but will be *fun* to do in the car

Do a helicoil if your can get a drill motor with bit into the engine bay, at the correct angle, and drill out the hole and then tap back. Kits are available at parts stores.

The head at the outside manifold bolts is only about 3/4" - 1" thick. Don't know about center holes.

Just did a head, but it was out of the car.

I prefer timesert. Timesert it back to the original size. That's an 8mm bolt correct?

DO NOT DRILL TOO DEEP.

Or you will be seriously Fucked.....

If you choose to do this in the car. Run a piece of plastic or brass pipe just a hair bigger than your drill bit OVER YOUR DRILL BIT so that the bit will only allow a preset depth to be drilled. (CYA mechanics)

It is IMPERATIVE you don't drill too deep.

I have a 70 degree drill that might work in this application.

AS in this pic.... Close quarter drill

If'n ya need it. You can borrow it. It isn't very powerful. And you would have to take your time. But it WILL get in there to drill out those stud holes. (I think)

And I agree with the fella above that suggested TIME CERTS. They are superior to most conventional inserts.

Cheers,
Clayton

I have had great luck in a 912 E using 3 time certs for the rocker hold down studs. Another idea-why don't you try cleaning up that stud and using lock tite red. Torque it to spec and see if it holds. Maybe it'll work. You wouldn't be out much or set back if it didn't hold.

Locktite red won't work in his application. There aren't any threads left to stick too.

He MIGHT be able to get by with Locktite thread maker. Which is bassiclay a high temp epoxy you put in the bad hole. Then you coat the bolt/stud with mold release and stick it in the hole. After it sets. you remove the bolt/stud and voila... Insta thread cert.

Problem is.. me no think it works at 400 degrees F.

Me thinks the epoxy might start to degrade. I KNOW there is mil spec stuff that works. I just don't have any connects at NASA anymore. Those guys have glues and epoxys that we can only dream of.

I would yank the head and do it right.

Unless I had a time constraint.

Then I would at least try it in the car. It's keeping the angle and not wobbling a hand drill is the hard part. Worse comes to worse. and he screws the pooch. He yanks the head. I'd have John do a Heliarc number to it. Drill it out in the mill. Install new time cert.... DONE.

I dunno.. Sean. let me know if'n ya need my little drill.

Clayton

cough* his name is joe* cough cough

Aaron......

I meant Joe.....

I was trying to be stealthy so no one would know.....
(Aliens intercept my messages some times)

And Joe's real name is Sean... he is undercover... (MIB) Don't blow it for him.

And the sky is pink and there are elephants in my bedroom right now.... SeanJoe is here with me... And Calvin Coolidge is talking to us in Hebrew.....

Now back to one of my other personalty's that is somewhat less retarded and knows Sean is really a figment of your imagination and you were channeling the name Sean to me through the ether.... Stop it Aaron.

Burp.....

Fred Flintstone




Joe...... OOOps.......

No worries Clayton.

I'm just pissed because I just got the damn thing in there.

I was really hoping to have this done already. Damn, I am depressed.

This may sound like a stupid question, but if I used epoxy, and it didn't work, would it make the proper repair worse or harder?

Ok, here is the timesert site. Very nice site, helpful info too.

http://www.timesert.com/html/mtrcsert.html

So if'n I do this, which kit? And I will need your drill Ralph... er, I mean Clayton.

I prefer timeserts myself.

When I did a timesert for an exhaust stud, I drilled it with the bit in a tap wrench, per directions. The bit in the timesert kit has 4 flats just for that purpose. It cut like butter. I was amazed. Since you're cutting by hand, you can feel when you bottom out.

I'll likely do the timesert, but I can't tell by the web page which kit to get.

Anyone have any guidance with this?

Surprised nobody mentioned JBWeld. This is a stud, so you don't need to reform the threads like you would if this was a bolt. Just JBWeld this stud back into the hole (after cleaning off the aluminum stuck in the threads of course).

I'd be happy to JB weld it in place if that will keep it there. I am concerned that it won't last. I am not expecting a 100k miles on this motor. I'd be happy with about 15k miles. I want to build a new one at some point as well.

I'm no help but here is a afternoon

I first retapped the hole out to 9mm, but it pulled again. So I ended up using the 9mm x 1.25 kit to tap it out and insert for a 9mm/8mm step-stud. You probably want the 8mm x 1.25 kit.

These guys have the kit, as well as studs and step-studs (if you should go for the 9mm kit for extra strength.).

http://www.belmetric.com/html/catalog15.htm

Jim

OOPS! I was thinking exhaust. You DON'T want the 9mm kit. You want the 8mm x 1.25 kit!!!!!!!

Sorry about that!
Jim

Yes. 8x1.25mm kit. It has all the bits needed to get the job done. 4 steps and you're good as new. Just don't forget to clean out the hole very thoroughly of all metal shavings. They can compact in the bottom of the hole sometimes and cause problems (even if you are working upside down). Carb cleaner and shop air is waht I use.

Joe,

Sent you a PM.

If it doesn't work I'm sorry...








It was an idea I got from Aaron. Maybe Ron. I'm not sure...

I hope you're idea doesn't include the use of chopsticks...