Here are some pics showing what I have been doing for the last several weekends. I am getting ready to install the new 2056 engine I am building from one of Jake's kits.

Once I got the new engine to this point, I basically came to a stoping point. I needed parts from the existing engine before I could continue this build. Minor stuff, but stuff that was stoping me. So the engine had to come out. I decided to pull the engine a bit early, because I have a lot of stuff I need to do in the engine compartment.

The old engine: You sorry piece of...

I'm keeping the heat exchangers, the coil, and the Mallory.

The first objective is to paint the engine compartment, and complete the color change. But paint doesn't stick to grease real well.

So day one of engine bay cleanup begins. Note the bucket of water, I used it for weting the SOS pads. Simple Green is great stuff too.

As tempting as it is to just put the engine in and have fun, I am taking my time.
You see, my new engine is just plain pretty. And I can't see myself putting this into an ugly, greasy engine compartment.

I should note that I cleaned this engine compartment a few years ago. So if it looks fairly clean, don't be alarmed. This engine compartment used to be covered with so much grease, you could hardly see the color.

The hell hole was fixed a few years ago, and left primered. I have pics of that ordeal here.

Some minor rust still needs attending to.

More pics tomorrow...

Nice looking tin!

That is some good looking tin! Your personal website is great!

That's sexy as hell.

Glad to see that you are almost finished! Contact Blake and I again before firing it up!

Day 2 of engine bay prep. That's a transmission I bought for $200. I'll be putting that in as well. The guy I bought it from said it works perfect. I'm taking a gamble there, but mine has syncho problems. We will see...

I decided to install the battery tray back to it's original location. This car has the battery located in the front trunk, but I have been thinking that maybe I will install A/C one day and will need that trunk space back. I figured now was the time to put this back in, before I paint the area.

I had to do this twice. I put it in, but then realized I had it in at an angle. I had to break the welds and then reposition. The second time I used a level!

Now this shows you how vain I am. I am covering up a seam line from the repair with body filler.

I little body filler to smooth over the rust repair....

Back to the engine... one thing I like about Jake's kits, is he uses German parts wherever he can. Right down to the oil filter. Well, Austrian, close enough - but Mozart was Austrian! This didn't have to be a Mahle, it could have been a Fram, but it's inclusion tells me that quality is important. I for one am tired of cheap made in China crap that has invaded out society.

Did I ever show you guys my muffler? I had this coated by Jet-Hot. I don't know what these Bursch mufflers sound like, but now that I have heard the Triad on someones Youtube video, I kinda wish I bought a Triad. Oh well, I guess there is always next Christmas...


More pics tomorrow...

So was Ferdinand Porsche.

NO, NOT FRAM! NEVER EVER EVER EVER FRAM! Don't put one of those orange pieces of junk on any motor you care about...

--DD

A member of the minority.... As long as it's cheap people don't care if its junk.
I'm fed up with that mentality, its the reason I left the Type 1 behind because every damn part was non standardized junk.

Its happening to the Type 4 now and it won't be long before it'll be time to move on again. Its impossible to fight cheap prices with quality parts and development.

You do NOT have my permission to move on until I have an engine kit from you.

That, my friend, is when you can kindly leave

Well, with everything degreased and sanded, I was ready to tape up all the wires and cables.

I lowered the suspension so I could get in there real well and paint everything. I probably should have dropped the trailing arms completely, but rain was in the forcast, and I had to get this done and back in the garage by nightfall.

Painter's plastic is great stuff. Very inexpensive.

All ready for the shoot.

I ended up shooting a lot of this in the dark, finishing around 8:30.

Here it is the next morning. The bottom by the tranny is painted as well, I will try to get a picture of that.

Finally, my car is all one color, inside and out.

Oh yes, my 914 was judged as "not worth fixing" because of the hell hole by a 914 expert about 10 years ago.

Now THAT is an engine bay ready for a new motor. Rusty 914 to that, amazing stuff!

Another nice shot of my engine bay...

Now back to the engine, these stainless steel heat exchangers are fairly new and came off of my old engine. Upon inspecting, I found some cracking, which had to be welded up. And.... while not leaking from those cracks they were not sealing very well at all on the top as evidenced by they black blow-by marks at top.

The inclusion of a balanced clutch along with the flywheel was a big selling point with me with this kit. I needed a clutch and pressure plate anyway. Note the grinding marks, that is I suspect how the clutch is balanced.

Pics of the assembled engine.

This is the Triad linkage kit.

The fan shroud is one area that I think really benefits from a nice coat of paint. I painted mine with some leftover VW Reflex Silver, topped with clearcoat.

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The engine case outside was polished with a wire wheel.

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This is engine break-in setup.
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These are the guage readings right before I had to abruptly end the break-in. My valve-cover gaskets were leaking pretty bad, dripping that green Brad Penn oil. Smoke was everywhere. I had been keeping an eye on the problem, and was about 15 minutes into the break-in, when a fire broke out on the right heat exchanger. So I had to shut the engine down, and put out the fire.


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the ole' aluminum foil making trick. cheap and easier than unwinding multiple rolls of paint loaded masking tape. a fine engine bay is a rewarding project. if the old bat in the trunk was a vented cell variety, consider dampening with water and sprinkling some baking soda in that area.

triad linkage. smart move and worth the extra $!!! for setting the final end play, get the engine up to operating temp. if it's tight now, it might bind. depending how you return spring it, there maybe a tendency to side load. remove that aspect to maintain the droplink geometry. you will not miss the cross bar with the spring loaded ball pivot ends.

k