Hi all

I have been lurking for a while, but this is my first post here.

I recently became a 914 owner once again after trading an Alpha 1 outdrive lower unit for a non-running 1970 1.7 (damn boats, another addiction). It is in fair shape for a car that has spent it's life in the Northeast. It appears that it was "restored" in the late 80's or early 90's, and had been sitting in a garage for over 12 years. The car has the typical problems in the passanger side long & jack post area that will need to be cut out & replaced, a few patches needed in the floors, and rust bubbles under the bodywork in a few areas, but not in bad condition overall for a Northeast car (most of you West Coast guys would probably cut this one up for parts, but I feel that it can be saved).

I have been reading all of the restoration threads in order to get a game plan of where to start with the repairs. I have not cut into the car yet, but know that I will be cutting out and replacing alot of rusty parts.

In the repair of the longs, I was planning on cutting them open, removing all the rusted parts, stabilize the existing metal, patching back pieces where required and had considered using one of the clamshell kits. Have many of you guys used the RD clamshell kit? How does it compare to the Brad Meyer's long kit? Pros / cons with each one? I felt that it would be much easier using one of these than trying to fabricate the parts myself.

The hellhole has been already been patched together by the PO. This will most likely be cut out and replaced as well.

I have been out of the 914 scene for alot of years and will be looking to you all for advice, guidance and words of encouragement.

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Hi Flippa,

And welcome to the insanity.....

When ya get a chance. Post up some pics of said damage.

Then we will see how we can help you. We have a couple of the guys here that also live in your area. (Boston)

Ya might want to get ready for a 914 BBQ Sunday. You supply the dead cow and drinks. And they will come.

Hell...... were all good for a food bribe. I'll always show up to fix someones car for trade of BBQ.

Cheers and good luck with your restoration...!!!!

Clayton

Thanks Clayton, it feels great to be working on these cars again after not wrenching on one for over 14 years. Attached are a few pictures of the passanger side. I think that it will be fine with a little cleaning, a few patches, etc. this car will be as good as new.

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Just joking guys. I think that this one might be a little too far gone.

This is a picture of one of the parts cars I recently got my hands on. Ths is what these cars become in areas of the country that have lots of salt dumped on the road in the winter; nothing but a pile of rust held together by the paint & undercoating. I had to remove the rear wheel and put the car down on a dolly to get it backed into the garage. The rear suspention started to fold out from under the car as we moved it in front of the shop.

After putting it up on the lift and getting it up in the air, I immediately put it back down. The entire passanger side of the car was so far gone that I was concerned that the engine mount might let go. As you can see in the pictures, there wasn't much left holding it in place. I secured the engine in place with straps to make sure it stayed put as I disassembled it.

Working on these is like riding a bike; it comes right back to you. I had the engine out in under 2 hours. Not too bad considering many of the fasteners had to be slowly worked off or cut due to all the rust.

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that orange car gave me the willies.

Man... I don't think I would even trust that thing on a lift :shudder:

Iron oxide is underrated, we would be up to our hip boots in Pinto's without it.

Finally have a few pictures of the damage on the "good" car.

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The PO repaired the long without removing the door sill. It appears that they did not weld the top of the replacement parts, just the areas where they could reach from underneath. I have no idea what lies under the replacement panel.

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What I can see of the inner long from the passanger compartment appears intact; no major rust or rot damage. THe floors have a few holes, and the triange shaped jacking point had been "repaired" in the past. Whoever "fixed" it jamed a piece of steel plate in there, tacked it in place & fiberglassed over it. The hell hole has also been similarly "repaired".

I will get a better handle on the extent of repairs needed after removing the engine, but I have a feeling that all of this previous work will be cut out and redone.

Another couple of pctures. The suspenson mounting points & engine supports all seem to be solid. THere are a few patches needed on the bottom of the frame.

Looking for some imput here guys. Should I patch up the holes on the longs, finish welding the replacement panel and use a clamshell kit, or should I cut it all away and start over?

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That's a pretty extensive repair there... I assume when you get into it you will find more than you have uncovered here.

Good Luck

That is a great quote i love it all you have to do is insert your favorite car to hate ..

mine would be Gremlin or Pacer.. or maybe a Renualt LeCar..

Chris