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D1A3
I have a '76 2.0 and have been workign to get this bucking under control at 3K RPM's... I've checked the MPS and it holds vaccum fine. All vaccum hoses have been replaced and recently and are secured with clamps. After checking all of the elecrical connections and making sure all of the FI connections are solid, I began focusing onthe TPS. I recalibrated it based ont he Pelican Article and things have improved, but not entirely. At this point, I'm suspecting the TPS may be worn (I have 105K miles on the car). The units I see fopr sale seem prohibitively expensive (why not go to carbs if I'm going to spend that kind of cash?). So, I'm wondering if anyone has rebuilt one?

I'm suspecting the contact pads are tin. Can they be built back up? Is there someone on this board that does it? Do we know of any cost effective places to get one? I'm hesitant to buy used from a non-running car as it might have the same problem. Any ideas?????
toon1
Many have talked about restoring these but I don't think anything has come about.

Have you taken yours apart to see if the contacts are worn or dirty?

Have you checked everything else? F.I trigger points, grounds?

I had the dame prob. with my car, I tracked it down to a lean condition caused by the AAR. once the AAR got warm enough to close, no more bucking.



D1A3
QUOTE(toon1 @ Oct 20 2007, 08:06 AM) *

Many have talked about restoring these but I don't think anything has come about.

Have you taken yours apart to see if the contacts are worn or dirty?

Have you checked everything else? F.I trigger points, grounds?

I had the dame prob. with my car, I tracked it down to a lean condition caused by the AAR. once the AAR got warm enough to close, no more bucking.


AAR? Pardon my ignorance...

All of the other items you mentioned check out.

Thanks!
toon1
QUOTE(D1A3 @ Oct 20 2007, 10:45 AM) *

QUOTE(toon1 @ Oct 20 2007, 08:06 AM) *

Many have talked about restoring these but I don't think anything has come about.

Have you taken yours apart to see if the contacts are worn or dirty?

Have you checked everything else? F.I trigger points, grounds?

I had the dame prob. with my car, I tracked it down to a lean condition caused by the AAR. once the AAR got warm enough to close, no more bucking.


AAR? Pardon my ignorance...

All of the other items you mentioned check out.

Thanks!

auxillary air valve. It's used for cold start only to add extra air to the engine when the throttle body is closed. If it is fauly on the electrical side it will be slow in closing and cause a lean condition until the heat of the engine bay closes it.
D1A3
QUOTE(toon1 @ Oct 20 2007, 10:03 AM) *

QUOTE(D1A3 @ Oct 20 2007, 10:45 AM) *

QUOTE(toon1 @ Oct 20 2007, 08:06 AM) *

Many have talked about restoring these but I don't think anything has come about.

Have you taken yours apart to see if the contacts are worn or dirty?

Have you checked everything else? F.I trigger points, grounds?

I had the dame prob. with my car, I tracked it down to a lean condition caused by the AAR. once the AAR got warm enough to close, no more bucking.


AAR? Pardon my ignorance...

All of the other items you mentioned check out.

Thanks!

auxillary air valve. It's used for cold start only to add extra air to the engine when the throttle body is closed. If it is fauly on the electrical side it will be slow in closing and cause a lean condition until the heat of the engine bay closes it.


Thanks! Any recomendations on how to test that?
toon1
I think there is a proceedure on brad anders site.

You can remove it and hook up the elec. and see if the piston moves or put it in the oven @ 150* and see if it moves.

If it moves by the elec. your ok if not you connection is broken.

The piston inside sometimes gets stuck and wont move.

cooltimes
believe that Dave Darling created a repair information post on that back in the archives. Also could be on Pelican.
purple
I can tell you the reason you're having problems with your TPS....

You aren't using the new cover sheets...Didn't you get the memo?
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