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Full Version: Rear camber shims--how many is too many
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jaybird840
OK, I started trying to correct the excessive negative camber on the rear of my teener to help tuck the new 10" wheels under the rear tubs. I was measuring negative camber in inches, not degrees or minutes. I started to order Engman's shim kit which would have given me about 7mm to play with. I thought it might be bright to try shimming it first with washers to make sure I had enough with 7mm. As it turns out, I have almost an inch of shims in there now, and I'm finally getting close to zero camber (still not there yet). So, what gives? Bent trailing arms? Deformed bushings? Both rears are about the same. Is it OK to run that much in shims to get the camber right? I know others have commented about doing it, but I want to make sure. Last, what would be the danger of using flat washers, and then shims on top to get to the correct camber setting? TIA

--jaybird
drgchapman
Uh oh.

Check for rust.


Longs might be toast.
dr914@autoatlanta.com
QUOTE(jaybird840 @ Oct 20 2007, 11:33 AM) *

OK, I started trying to correct the excessive negative camber on the rear of my teener to help tuck the new 10" wheels under the rear tubs. I was measuring negative camber in inches, not degrees or minutes. I started to order Engman's shim kit which would have given me about 7mm to play with. I thought it might be bright to try shimming it first with washers to make sure I had enough with 7mm. As it turns out, I have almost an inch of shims in there now, and I'm finally getting close to zero camber (still not there yet). So, what gives? Bent trailing arms? Deformed bushings? Both rears are about the same. Is it OK to run that much in shims to get the camber right? I know others have commented about doing it, but I want to make sure. Last, what would be the danger of using flat washers, and then shims on top to get to the correct camber setting? TIA

--jaybird


please make sure that the car is not too low! That would require excessive shimming to achieve the 30 minutes neg camber you want. The three hole shims can be piled until you run out of bolt length. I would not suggest installing longer bolts buy rather if too low and having stock spring plates, to replace the sagging springs. (by saying you have 10 inch wheels I am led to believe that you have some special setup?)
Jeffs9146
I had this problem and it turned out to be a bent arm. When I took it apart I found the ear hole Ovaled also. So I replaced the arm and welded up the ear. Now I only have a 3mm in each one. PS: These are not my photos!
SirAndy
- bent trailing arm
- ovaled mounting hole
- broken/rusted mount
- car too low
- bend tub


in that order ...
shades.gif Andy
Dave_Darling
An inch worth of shims is more than I can see being only due to lowering. I'm guessing bent arms, maybe a problem with the tub. Probably in conjunction with the lowering...

BTW, a full degree of negative camber is just fine, even in a street car. For a track car (that isn't running bias-ply tires), it's not nearly enough! smile.gif

--DD
jaybird840
OK, well I guess it's time to pull the trailing arm and see what gives... I needed to do it anyway to do the five lug in the rear. My bet is ovaled hole + shot bushings. The hell hole is solid, and the only rust on the car is some crunchiness under the right rear long. The car is not lowered, and is on stock length springs that are new. So, I guess I'll pull the arms and see wassup! Thanks!

--bird
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