Hey Guys, this is yet another continuation thread of other continuation threads.

It all got started here...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=76175&hl=

and then continued here...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=76498&hl=

and more continuation here...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=76848&hl=

okay.

So, the engine tin is all in, the eurorace header is on and works nice, the mallory is in and timed correctly (past or at 3500 rpm) new plugs, new wires, all that.

the engine is STILL at 350 all the time at least, and when i drive like 40mph it spikes to 400 and slightly beyond. it's not getting up to 425-450 like before, but this is just getting old.

Tonight was a very cool night, for houston at least, and it's 63 degrees outside. What the hell is going on? I have a loud knocking noise at idle, it sounds like i need to tighten up the valves or something. the noise seems to be coming from the crankcase. the car is still gutless, it shifts much better now, but the engine just runs hot as hell.

That weber is still on there, now do i have to tune the carb now that everything has changed?

I'm just puzzled as to wtf is keeping these temps so high...

Ping me with questions on here and i'll answer them asap. i really want this car to be nice and driveable, and this CHT gauge is pissing on my wagon

please help guys

have you tested your temp guage or tried another one....sounds like it might be the guage or the guage is not hooked up properly...too much resistance in the line?

Are you still using the single carb?

What kind of oil?

What kind of temp sensor? Oil only? CHT?

Zach

it sure looks like your learning a lot! like me...
sorry if i repeat anything~
the thermostat and properly operating air flaps are what i think of. use a heat gun to testthe thermo.

Single carb ain't helpin'.......

That's the second VDO CHT that I've heard of that reads just like that. My buddy's T4 bus has one and he reads the same as you. He just recently bought the bus from a guy who drive it daily and to the coast on weekends and never had a problem. But theVDO says that he has gotten it up to 475 which means it should have exploded a long time ago.

Swap for another gauge, or buy a Micro1000 from aircraftspruce.com or DakotaDigital gauge. I'm very happy with my Micro1000.

Interesting. So you guys are saying that VDO gauge may be wonky? how bizarre.

Something of note...the tin that goes on the passenger side that kinda ducts around the oil cooler....I can't see that there is any of that screwed onto the top tin. Meaning that It looks like i have no inner tin on the passenger side. It looks like i'll have to pull off the upper tin on that side to put the oil cooler tin in, is that correct?

I saw a corrected CHT gauge before but it was digital, i was shushed away from it by family because it 'didnt look vintage' because it was digital. The CHT that's in there right now is the VDO one and i never cut the wires from the probe connection to the back of the gauge. As far as I understand the gauge to work, if I'd cut & splice that wiring, it would report lower temperatures since the dissimilar metals in the probe generate a small amount of voltage and splicing the wire would do something to limit that voltage. Is this correct?

The cooling flaps are installed, but there is no thermostat, and i've heard the thermostat doesnt do much to COOL the engine, just get it up to temp faster.

Oil temps are staying at the middle of the gauge.

The oil i'm using is 20w50 ams oil synthetic.

The gauge i saw was a dakota digital. These are like 200 dollars aren't they?

Could it be the engine is now running lean?

COuld the valves being out of adjustment mean that they arent opening far enough and would choke the engine, making it run hotter?

Interesting responses so far, thanks!

That single carb has to go bro and you need to run two 40s. The most important thing is head temps and oil temps can be taken down with an external cooler. Your engine will not run well with a progressive cab because the air fuel mixture will condensate on the bends on the manifold and you will be sucking air and fuel in such a way that the combustion will run at irregular temps. Sounds to me like your engine needs a rebuild if its knocking.

i have to admit that my "new" engine (~500 miles, euro piston, all tin installed, D-jet, stock...) is getting the same #3 cylinder head temp readings with the same VDO gauge. pucker factor is sky high. LM-1 install is slightly delayed and want to verify air/fuel ratio. as noted, i thought those temps were fatal so i'm hopeful that the gauge just reads high (best case senario)

I would go to a tool store that carries the infrared pyrometers ask if they can "demo the thing on your engine. compare it to the gauge. You will need to pull the plug wire off and shoot down through the hole.

I think you are still not tuned correctly but you need to verify the gauge 1st.

What is timed correctly past 3500 mean.

What do your plugs look like. Black or white you will see one or the other I would not even expect nice tanish color. you are at one of the extremes

I'm working hard to get a pair of 40's from aircooled or 9motorsport. I would prefer jake's set because he goes over them before sending them out to make sure the castings are good.

Joe, I'll try to do that with the laser thingy, what I mean by 'timed past 3500' is to head off comments saying 'did you time it at idle' or something like that because whenever someone says that Jake's on here fussin at people to time it at 3500 RPM because you can't drive down the highway at idle

I drove it again today and I must say the car is driving better as it gets warmer outside...does this mean that maybe my carb is too lean? I've never played with a car's carb before, plenty of 2 stroke nitro engines with both rotary and slide valve carbs. Anyone have tips on how to work on this carb?...aside from throwing it in the trash.

oh, the knock is gone. i think it was more of a loud tick and i betcha it was a bit of a sticky or dry lifter. or it's just moved on to destroying something else

My plugs when they came out were black

the exhaust ports on my engine are black on the inside on the driver's side (the side that had no tin) and the ports on the passenger side looked white inside (those have tin)

I can highly recommend a Dakota Digital CHT gauge. No, they're not analog (and I'm even an analog junky) but I love this gauge. You might actually like the way it looks. I have mine in my center console and it doesn't look rice or anything. It's very easy to read as well. Outside temperature compensated (always accurate readings) and responds to temp changes within seconds, not minutes. I think I remember paying around $150 shipped for mine, but well worth it.

Didnt I PM you about that gauge? I love how they look. I'm a digital junky personally

Did you? I don't remember. Might wanna get rid of the VDO and save a little more.

Micro1000 CHT Gauge

This is the one I have. IIRC, it was about $100 for all the pieces. You need to buy the gauge, the thermocouple, and the 15' extension wire.

Which reminds me. I have been meaning to ask you, did I leave my extension wire and thermocouple at Original Customs? Might be in the car, I haven't opened the front trunk since then.

I wouldn't spend $100 or $200 on a new probe when you already have one. You just need to make sure it is accurate. If it is indeed accurate, then you have wasted your money to buy a new one that tells you the same thing as the old one.

Surely someone you know has an infrared thermometer. Warm up the engine, and then let it sit for 15 minutes or so, so that the entire head and spark plug are at about the same temperature. You should then be able to shoot the infrared thermometer in through the spark plug hole and get a pretty accurate temperature measurement of the head. See if the VDO gauge agrees.

If this is a oil temp gauge? I have seen this before. The stock VDO gauge sending unit will not work correctly with aftermarket VDO gauges. Temp range and resistance are diiferent. Buy the correct sending unit and you will get the readings your looking for. plenty for sale on Ebay.

Good Luck!

Easy test for the thermocouple. Boil a pot of water, insert the probe into a latex glove, and suspend the probe (connected to the gauge with power) in the boiling water for about 10-15 minutes (the latex glove might insulate for a time, so better to let it heat soak). The gauge should read just over 200 F. A relatively easy, and direct method that doesn't cost much, and will be a more accurate test than one of those cheezy IR laser probes. Unless you're sampling the actual metal that the thermocouple is in contact with, you are not getting an reading that can be used to calibrate the thermocouple. The metal of the exterior of the head is going to be cooler than the metal closer to the combustion chamber.

-Josh2