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jiveturkey
Hi all I am new here and am curious about a few things. I will start with a little background. I have been roadracing motorcycles for several years so I understand the difference between a race machine vs a street machine and the costs that coincide. I purchased a 74 914 2.0 when I was 17 years old (many years ago) only to never get the money or help to finish. It was sold and I have been thinking of buying another ever since.

This will not be my only vehicle but I do want to keep it reliable so I can use it for the occasional commute to work and weekend trips. The other function this car must be capable of is allowing my 12 year old son and I to Auto X on occasion and possibly a track day here and there since I live less than 1.5 hours away from two very nice roadcourses.

Here is what I think I am looking for- I don't like the 74 and up style bumpers, flares are ok but I prefer the stock look, I like the 2.0 motor but would definately entertain a 914/6 conversion car, am willing to do some work but would rather buy one that someone else has spent a lot of money on. biggrin.gif Pretty simple right?

My question- What sort of mods should I be looking for or are mandatory for the uses I listed above? What should I expect to pay? I already know that whatever I go with I don't want a bomb behind me, a nice rebuilt 4 or 6 with some bolt ons are ok but I don't need a 250 Horsepower monster. I learned a long time ago racing bikes that motor is not as important as most think. I like reliability but would also like good handling, good brakes, and nice looks. In particular;
1. R stock Brakes fine for auto x?
2. Will a stock motor and tansaxle take the punishment?
3. What wheels and tires, is the 5 bolt lug conversion needed?
4. Is Stock suspension capable and if not what do you suggest?
5. Are there anyother places to shop for a car?

Thanks, Eric
drew365
I don't have all your answers but for my .02c I would look for a small 6 if you want reliability. My friend runs a 4 and he rebuilds heads about as often as I change brake pads. We road race which is a little tougher on the car than auto x. I know others will feel strongly that I'm full of cr*p and they could be right.
I would post this in the garage forum, you'll get more replies.
DanT
QUOTE(jiveturkey @ Oct 26 2007, 08:34 AM) *

1. R stock Brakes fine for auto x?
yes when properly functioning
2. Will a stock motor and tansaxle take the punishment?
yes, when properly rebuilt and/or maintained

3. What wheels and tires, is the 5 bolt lug conversion needed?
no 5 lug is not necessary for a 4 or small 6.
wheels in 4 bolt are a bit limited but can be found, 4 bolt fuchs, some aftermarket wheels in 4 bolt, custom made 6 and 7" wide steelies.

4. Is Stock suspension capable and if not what do you suggest?
stock torsion bars, 19 or 21mm front sway bar, Koni adjustables
rear koni adjustables and 140# or 180# rear springs no rear sway bar

5. Are there anyother places to shop for a car?

you can find them almost everywhere, but west coast cars tend to have less rust in the usual places....
most important part is finding a solid chassis, the rest of the stuff can be bolted and unbolted for the most part

good luck and welcome to the madness

Thanks, Eric



you can build a very reliable and strong 2056 CC motor with carbs or FI that will fill all of your needs and still be reliable and fun.

pics of my recent 2056 build and custom 7" steelies
jhadler
QUOTE(jiveturkey @ Oct 26 2007, 08:34 AM) *
Here is what I think I am looking for- I don't like the 74 and up style bumpers, flares are ok but I prefer the stock look, I like the 2.0 motor but would definately entertain a 914/6 conversion car, am willing to do some work but would rather buy one that someone else has spent a lot of money on. biggrin.gif Pretty simple right?

My question- What sort of mods should I be looking for or are mandatory for the uses I listed above? What should I expect to pay? I already know that whatever I go with I don't want a bomb behind me, a nice rebuilt 4 or 6 with some bolt ons are ok but I don't need a 250 Horsepower monster. I learned a long time ago racing bikes that motor is not as important as most think. I like reliability but would also like good handling, good brakes, and nice looks. In particular;


The argument between 4 and 6 is a big one. And you'll see good points on both sides of the issue. For equal money, and a freshly built engine (I'm not talking about used motors here), it's a near toss-up for both performance and longevity. A cheaply built 4 can be had cheap, but will not yield much power, or lifetime. A well built 4 (Jake Raby) will put down similar performance numbers to a 6, and will cost about the same. Raby motors are considered by most to be the best in the biz, but they aren't cheap. You get what you pay for. A good rebuild on a 6 ain't cheap either, and a 6 conversion can get expensive in a hurry unless you're especially frugal and inventive (being handy with a welder goes a long way).

Also, you are interested in competition with the car, and unless it's a stock 2.0L the mere fact that it's a 6 will land you in deeper waters (here there be dragons). So know what class you want to dive into, if competition is what you're looking for. If it's just for grins, and actual winning isn't as important, then do what you will, and drive the car in whatever class it lands in. If, on the other hand, competition (and the possibility of winning) is on the horizon, choose a class that suits your interest (and bank account).

QUOTE

1. R stock Brakes fine for auto x?


Definitely. It's all in the prep, and the pads. As a matter of fact, the smaller the brakes the better in autox. For two reasons. 1) Lower unsprung weight = better transition response and lower rotational intertia. 2) Smaller pads heat up quicker, and in autox, you're always on cold brakes at the start of a run. The key is prep. Make sure that everything in the brake system is up to snuff. No leaks, no binding, and fresh fluid. Stock brakes on a 914 are good even for the track (with different pads), so long as you cool them enough (ducting is key).

QUOTE

2. Will a stock motor and tansaxle take the punishment?


For autox? All day long. If you start putting down lots of power, the gearbox becomes a weak link. But until you get over 200hp, the stock transaxle is plenty fine. For the track? A stock type 4 motor can take a fair bit (if properly built), but you gotta manage the heat. But that's the case with any motor for the track.

QUOTE

3. What wheels and tires, is the 5 bolt lug conversion needed?


RTR my friend. (Read The Rules). It all depends on what club you want to compete with, and in what class. The stock wheels (4-lug fuchs) can hold a 205/50-15 tire on most cars (all 914's were handbuilt, and can vary from car to car). But you need to decide with who, and in what class you want to run. The allowances will differ greatly. For example, in SCCA autox, the 914 can run (depending on your wallet) in as many as 8 different classes. Most of them however are cubic dollar classes. For "Stock", you can run any DOT tire that fits on stock tires, and under stock fenders. In "Street Prepared", you can flare and run any wheel and any DOT tire. (By DOT I do not mean street tires, I mean DOT rated competition tires). In PCA autox, the rules vary a bit from region to region, so you have to look at what the rules are for the group you plan on running with. But no, 5 lug is not "needed". Especially for autox. For the track, if you're doing it a lot, you may want to convert to bigger brakes, at which point it's easier to do so if you're running a 5 lug setup instead.

QUOTE

4. Is Stock suspension capable and if not what do you suggest?


Again, RTR. But...Bone stock? You might find it a little soft. The first thing to do, in almost any class at all, is replace the shocks. Get some good Koni Adjustable Sports (the yellow ones), and you have already made a big improvement. After that, a good adjustable front sway bar (weltmeister or tarret). But remember, in some classes, suspension is limited to stock, in others it's unrestricted. Unrestricted generally means bigger money.

QUOTE

5. Are there any other places to shop for a car?


Right here is a very good choice. NARP and CLUB as well. Craigslist has lots of good finds, and even ebay. The important thing here (and I can't stress enough) is RUST. My strong recommendation would be to find a board member from here that lives in your area, and have them come with you to inspect a car when you find one that suits you. All 914's have rust, but some have more than you are gonna want to deal with. Anyone who is selling a "rust free" 914 for not a lot of money is selling you the rust for free...

Good luck!!
Chris Pincetich
You are looking to buy the type of 914 that can be found used, and ready to go. New shocks, at least one anti-roll (aka sway) bar, new tires should be on your wish list because they can be expensive when new but don't transfer to a high resale price. Extra added on oil cooler, larger front AR bar, and wider than 5.5" wheels are some other things to watch for. I race a stock 1.7 that is gutted and new suspension, and it rocks. Having 30 year old suspension sucks, and 914s really benefit from perfect suspension. Mine is 80% there, much better with new shocks. TIV motors are usually very reliable and fun, and stock brakes are fine (especially when the car gets lighter!) for casual racing. If you tend to be more than casual, the reliability declines. You should also consider buying a 914 with a roll bar or cage allready installed if you want to race on a full road course with a passenger, it will also complement your suspension. I've been building up and tearing down my '72 rust bucket and it's been a lot of fun. beerchug.gif
jiveturkey
Thanks for the replies guys I appreciate it. There are a couple in the classifieds section I would love to jump on but I have time so I am going to wait until one really grabs me.

Eric
sww914
5 lug is only necessary when you need (need) bigger brakes. When you're blowing through a set of pads in a weekend, or you cook your calipers in one or two days, or your brakes are fading fast 1/2 way through a practice session, you need bigger brakes.
Changing to 5 lugs (especially to struts with 3.5" caliper bolt spacing) gives you many caliper/rotor options. The most common is Carrera or SC struts, brakes, hubs, and control arms. It'll all bolt right in. Vented rotors work better under heavy braking. I don't think that they'll make any difference for autoX, but going from 125 into a 30mph corner lap after lap will heat up your brakes more than stock 914 brakes can usually handle. If you have a stock 1.7 or 1.8, or maybe even a 2.0, you'll be able to wait longer before you need bigger brakes, you just won't get going that fast that soon.
I'd look for a clean '73 or '74 2.0 with some mild track mods already done. Still comfy to drive around town, fun in the twisties and on track days, but not too expensive to own or too hard to find a class to run in.
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