I have carburetors, no heater, and an aftermarket fuel pump on its own relay from the battery.

What do I need to do, to get rid of the relay board all together, and to simplify the wiring?

Great question............Because I was thinking the same thing, and doing a little research on it.

4 Governor
52 Rear window heater
55 Relay heater blower
74 Relay for power supply
75 Relay for gasoline pump
90 Regulator plate
91 Fuses for rear window heater, heater blower, gasoline pump

I have a DME car (was 3.2 now going to 3.6) and its all wired around the relay board as best I can tell. Don't have window heater, heater blower, and the fuel pump is wired thru old fog light circuit.

What do we really need the relay board for? what is 4 Governor & 90 Regulator plate used for?

90 Regulator plate is the relay board itself I believe. Marv how did you wire up the pump to the fog light circuit? Does the fog light switch turn on the pump?

The "govenor" is the voltage regulator and 90 is the board itself. If you don't need the FI relays the board is easy to eliminate. Many wires are just spliced together including the oil light, backup lights, starter solenoid, tach signal and coil power. Here's a list of what goes where.

T14 Connector
1 Starter solenoid power in from igntion switch
2 From voltage regulator to alternator warning light
3 Power in for backup lights
4 Power out to backup lights
5 Out to oil pressure warning light
6 Not used
7 Tach signal out to tach
8 Power in from ignition switch for coil
9 Ground signal from heater fan switch
10 Chassis ground for relays on board
11 Power out to heater fan
12 Battery power in to fuel injection power supply relay
13 Power out to fuel pump
14 Battery power in to fuel pump, heater fan and rear window relays


T12 Connector
1 Signal from oil pressure switch
2 Power out to backup light switch
3 Not used
4 Power back from backup light switch
5 Tach signal in from coil
6 Power out to starter solenoid
7 Power out to ignition coil
8 Not used
9 Not used
10 Heater fan jumper wire to T12/11
11 see above/fan can also be powered from this terminal instead of T14/11
12 Power out from fuel pump relay to aux air regulator

WOW that is awesome information EJM I nominate this to the classics thread... Also some one need to DO this and take pics and do a write up... it may be me because the wiring harness is probably going back in next month and why have it if i dont need it.

I'm running an internal voltage regulator style alternator from a Volvo. (although I'm still running the board) I like the board for the ease of being able to simply unplug the harness when removing the engine. Eventually I'll get different plugs.

It's a Bosch. Of course mine is on a 928 engine. If I have time I'll see if there is a way to use the bosch on the type IV. This will allow the elimination of the "Governor.

Yes it does, its a great theft deterent as there is no way to start the car without the fog light switch on! BTW I don't have foglights, and it was a simple rewire.

If you are running an internally regulated alternator and the relay board how did you bypass the external regulator on the board? Just wondering because I am getting ready to put a high amp alt from a newer VW and they are all internally regulated. I would like to keep the board for now for your reasons and some others.

With the regulator inside the alternator you need just two connections. The heavy output wire can go to the starter post like it does now or you can run it directly to the battery. The other wire is for the warning light and gets connected to the wire at T14/2 on the relay board. Remove the old alternator with it's harness and the voltage regulator from the board.

Is it possible that there is both now?

How can I tell if there is a regulator inside the alternator now.

If not how do I get the correct alternator with a built in regulator?

Here is the pin out to get rid of the relay board:

T14 Connector => T12 Connector

Starter Solenoid:
1 - Yellow => 6

Voltage Regulator Alternator Relay:
D+ => Red
D- => Brown
DF => Green -> 2 – Blue

Backup Lights:
3 - Grey/Brown => 2
4 - Grey/Brown => 4

Oil Pressure Warning Light
5 - Green/Red => 1

Tachometer Signal:
7 – Black/purple => 5

Ignition Coil:
8 Black/Red => 7

Ignore pins 6,9,10,11,12,13, and 14 if you don’t EFI or a Heater

I’m going to get a new multi-pin-connector and cut off the old ones.

T14 Connector
1 Starter solenoid power in from igntion switch
2 From voltage regulator to alternator warning light
3 Power in for backup lights
4 Power out to backup lights
5 Out to oil pressure warning light
6 Not used
7 Tach signal out to tach
8 Power in from ignition switch for coil
9 Ground signal from heater fan switch
10 Chassis ground for relays on board
11 Power out to heater fan
12 Battery power in to fuel injection power supply relay
13 Power out to fuel pump
14 Battery power in to fuel pump, heater fan and rear window relays


T12 Connector
1 Signal from oil pressure switch
2 Power out to backup light switch
3 Not used
4 Power back from backup light switch
5 Tach signal in from coil
6 Power out to starter solenoid
7 Power out to ignition coil
8 Not used
9 Not used
10 Heater fan jumper wire to T12/11
11 see above/fan can also be powered from this terminal instead of T14/11
12 Power out from fuel pump relay to aux air regulator