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Richard Casto
A little history first...

This is my third 914 and it will be a keeper. First two are from my college days in the late 1980's but both of those are gone (1st was totalled in a crash, the second had terminal rust and eventually became a parts car) Fast forward roughly 20 years. Got married, had two kids and I decided I could not continue to put off building my dream car. While I had always wanted an original 914/6, I also wanted a general purpose fun car (Street, Autocross and Track) that would have had more power and safety features than a stock 914/6. I can't afford to have multiple 914s (a stock 914/4, a 914/4 with a modern Type IV, a stock 914/6, a 914/6 GT Clone, a track only 914, etc.), so rather than molest a "real" 914/6 to build my dream "six", I decided to start with a regular 914/4 and do a six swap.

This car was purchased in 8/2005. Over the past two years I have disassembled the entire car and am now at the point of doing repair and refurbishment. Which is why I picked now as the time to do the progress thread (who wants to read about the dis-assembly of a car!)

Goals for the car...
  • While I appreciate 914/6 GTs, I have no desire to spend the time and money to make this a "GT Clone".
  • While I appreciate 914s that have SBC or Subaru engine swaps or even big modern Type IV engines, I wanted to keep the spirit of the 914/6 which means a Porsche flat six. I am looking for "safe" power and torque. So this excludes building up a wild 2.x engine. So I either going to do a 3.0 or 3.2 (90% sure it will be a 3.2).
  • Again, with the spirit of building something like a 914/6, I will be doing a five lug conversion. I already have a complete front end including 3.5" struts.
  • I will be using a 901 transmission in the near term and when I can afford it, I will be moving up to a 915 transmission.
  • I don't think the wide body look works for every car and I tend to like the narrow body style better, but I am a big fan of plenty of rubber on a car. So I am doing steel flairs.
  • I am not a huge fan of the 916 front and rear bumpers, so I am keeping the stock style front and rear bumpers.
  • This will be used at track events, so I want a full cage. But at the same time I want to be able to put the top on the car. This is going to be a challenge as I am also 6'5". So getting me into a seat, with helmet on that fits under the top of the cage and with the top fitting is going to be a challenge.
  • I really want to minimize how much I modify the body itself. I wanted mods to be "bolt on" vs. cut and weld. This is currently stopping me from doing a "GT Style" front oil cooler. I most likely will put a cooler in the rear with ducts and thermostat controlled fan. I know that in a way this is more complicated than the front cooler, but it is what I want. The only exceptions to this rule so far is the flairs and the installation of the cage. The flairs I think are in the spirit of the car as they are the steel repro of the factory flairs and the cage is a safety item. I haven't decided about things like cutting an access hole for the engine (set timing, etc.), mods to the floorboard to get the seat to fit as well as "stiffening" or "reinforcement" kits. I want this car to be SCCA SM2 legal for autocross. But I may just say "screw it" and do some of these factory stiffening kits even if it puts me into XP class.
  • I want to keep the "bling" factor down on the car. So the interior and exterior will have a very "stock" look (no rear wings, etc.) I am also going to go with the factory color of "Irish Green" as you don't seem to see many in that color.
  • Ideally I would like to refurbish or replace as much as I can as I reassemble the car, but due to funds, some stuff may be put back that I will replace at a later date. The dash cover is a simple example of this. Mine is cracked, but I may not be able to get it recovered until later.
  • Do as much of the work myself as I can. For me the trip there is just as important as the destination. I want to know this car inside and out when I am done.
  • I want to do any rust repair "the right way". What I mean by this is that I will only be in doing surgery on this car once. So if I see rust, I am going to fix it once and fix it right. And the resulting repair will hopefully look as close to factory original as I can make it.
  • I would like to be done by the end of 2008. As with anything, time and money have a big impact on this.

I have my own website that contains a higher level of detail on specific sections of the car as well as a more detailed general Blog. I currently host this at home and sometimes the server is down, but it is up most of the time. You can find that here...

http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm
Richard Casto
In 2005 when I decided to get back on the horse, a local friend who autocrosses with me who had a 914 (jdogg on this forum) put me in touch with this car. It is a 1972 1.7 The body is generally in good shape for an East Coast car. Might be a parts car on the West Coast. wink.gif It had some visiable hell hole issues, but the longitudinals generally seemed strong and the biggest issues with the body was front and rear trunk rust in the usual places. The PO also had backed into it a few weeks previously and hit the driver side front fender. I bought the entire car as well as his parts stash for $800.

Car as I purchased it in August of 2005.

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I spent much of late 2005 and early 2006 totally redoing my garage. This included additional 220v wiring for air compressor and welder as well as additional 110v for additional outlets around the perimeter of the garage, a new heavy duty work bench, epoxy covering for the floor, on the wall (above head) storage for tools, etc. I basically didn't want to do the work in a junk pile.

By August of 2006, the garage work was pretty much finished and I started on the car. Photos below show car on jack stands, but mostly complete. Within a few weeks the engine and transmission was out and I was busy tearing into the car.

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Here is the kids in the front trunk. Hopefully they will not be in High School when the car finally is on the road.

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Richard Casto
Fast forward to June of this year. Over the spring I took a welding class at a local community college and learned how to weld. My first project was to build my rotisserie.

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Car is totallly stripped by this point. I decided to really start looking into what I would need to do from a rust repair perspective. I know I have to replace part of the rear and front trunks and will work on those later. but I didn't know how bad the hell hole issue was as well as potential damage to the outer longitudinal on the passenger side.

At this point forward I will be standing on the shoulders of giants. While there are a huge number of web pages and threads on various forum that I have bookmarked as resources, I have found two that stand out. The first is Michelko's repair thread has been a huge inspiration to me and others...

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=16748

The second is Armando Serrano's site. It has been great as I share his apparent desire to do the repairs to as close to factory spec as possible...

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt

Armando has many photos that show work in progress just like in Michelko's thread and a picture is truely worth a thousand words. My goal is to do work as nice as they have as well as document what I have done to help others. I am an Admin over at http://www.roadglue.com/ and my focus there is on the 914 wiki http://www.roadglue.com/wiki/. I hope to eventually document some things I have learned along the way on the wiki.

Like Michelko, I cut out the area of the body above the passenger side jack receiver so that I could get better access. I may eventually need to do the same on the driver side when I replace the missing jack receiver.

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After using my knotted wire brush on my angle grinder I found that the small bubbles on the longitudinal was more like significant pinholes. How bad will it be on the inside? I will find out.
Richard Casto
Sometime earlier I had realized that in addition to the regular hell hole rust, the inner suspension console for the passenger side had terminal problems. Also in the spirit of this being more like a 914/6, I decided to "delete" the 914/4 specific engine mount pods. The one on the passenger side was toast anyhow, so instead of rebuilding it from scratch (replacements do not exists as far as I know), I would just remove both of them anyhow.

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A short time later, I had some friends help me mount the car on my rotisserie

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Richard Casto
This past week, I decided to dive in and really start cutting out the rusty spots.

The car is supported on the rotisserie. I also have the standard braces between the shoulder seatbelt mounts and door frame, I also built some extra long jack stands to support the front and rear of the longitudinal while I work on the passenger longitudinal and hell hole.

It was kind of scary and exciting to cut into the car. biggrin.gif

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It is about as bad as I expected. With the car on the rotisserie and doing 360 barrel roles you could hear all kinds of rust rolling around inside. A lot of this flaky rust also comes from the hell hole area and it has just migrated to the lowest part of the car. Still, I am not happy because I am pretty sure I am going to have to rebuild the bottom part of the inner longitudinal. I have the outside repro part from Restoration Design, but I see a lot of fabrication work in my future.

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This photo really shows what I am trying to fix. You can see my fingers through the gap behind the straight edge. This is behind the jack receiver point (jack receiver was mostly removed by the PO) and under the hell hole. The double walled section here has rusted through enough that the bottom is no longer strong. The car has been jacked up on this and because of the weakness, it has collapsed/crushed part of the box section here. That is what is causing the gap. Much of this area needs to be replaced.

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Here we are looking inside of that hole (I actually cut more of the area off around where the jack receiver mounts after the photo above). We are looking back toward where the rear suspension console mounts. There is some debris up in the top as a result of doing barrel rolls on the rotisserie. But after I vaccumed that out, it looks like the inner corrugated wall of this section is in good shape other than the very bottom that you can't see in this photo

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Richard Casto
In the hell hole area, as mentioned earlier I have deleted the 914/4 engine mount pods. This section is nearly all double walled on the inside. The inner wall also has a corrogated style stamping (I assume for extra strength). I am hoping that this inner part continues to remain in good shape. As you can see, I have already cut along the corrogated section to help me peel of the outer skin. The outer skin is spot welded in place and I am using Blair Rotabroach spot weld bits to remove the spot welds. It is a hard job in rusted/pitted areas where you don't know exactly where the spot well is.

I have also marked out my cutting plan. I am looking to keep as much "good" metal as possible. But at the same time I would like my cuts to be straight lines as much as I can to make it easier to fabricate the replacement parts.

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View from the bottom looking up. Donut and backing plate have already been removed.

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You can see more of the outer suspension console in this photo. I am 99% sure that the outer console is in great shape.

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Richard Casto
More cutting. I probably am going to be cutting a bit more out and then I may media blast the entire area back to grey metal to get a better idea how bad the rust is. I want to determine what is just surface rust that will clean up and what is cancer. Then do some more cutting to remove any cancer I missed the first time and then start fabricating my replacement parts.

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This is pretty much it for now. Hopefully I will be able to update about once a week or so. smile.gif Wish me luck!
rick 918-S
Good start. we'll be watching popcorn[1].gif
TeenerTim
You REALLY need to tack in some bracing with the car on the rotisserie and the longitudinal cut like that. The doors may not fit when you're done or it might even buckle in the middle. Good Luck.
iamchappy
What an ambitious start, I wish you the courage to continue and persevere...
URY914
Great job so far. But yes add some door opening braces. It's about to fold up on you.
jdogg
Richard-
Great progress!!! With the patient, methodical approach you've demonstrated so far, this project is going to be outstanding!!!



QUOTE(URY914 @ Nov 1 2007, 10:24 AM) *

Great job so far. But yes add some door opening braces. It's about to fold up on you.


He did mention he had bracing from where the shoulder belts strap in to the door hinge area.
Richard Casto
QUOTE(jdogg @ Nov 1 2007, 11:50 AM) *

Richard-
Great progress!!! With the patient, methodical approach you've demonstrated so far, this project is going to be outstanding!!!



QUOTE(URY914 @ Nov 1 2007, 10:24 AM) *

Great job so far. But yes add some door opening braces. It's about to fold up on you.


He did mention he had bracing from where the shoulder belts strap in to the door hinge area.


OMG it broke in half last night!!! headbang.gif wink.gif

Actually thanks for the warnings guys. Sorry, I should have shown the braces as I wouldn't want anyone to read this and then cut like I have without something to hold the car up. They just don't happen to be visible in the photos above.

In addition to the braces shown in the photo below, I also have two support columns on the floor. One for the front and one for the rear of the passenger side longitudinal. As I go I keep checking to make sure everything continues to be tight and well supported.

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roadster fan
Richard,

Awesome pics of your progress, keep em coming! I really like the simplicity of your rotisserie and looked at your construction photos on your progress site. Could you take pictures of your rotisserie with a tape measure next to different parts and maybe the specifications of the round stock you used for the pivot axles? I am getting ready to build one the measurements could speed up the design stage.

Keep up the great work, you are saving another one from us California heathens who cut up cars with bad hell holes! biggrin.gif

Jim
Richard Casto
QUOTE(roadster fan @ Nov 1 2007, 02:32 PM) *

Richard,

Awesome pics of your progress, keep em coming! I really like the simplicity of your rotisserie and looked at your construction photos on your progress site. Could you take pictures of your rotisserie with a tape measure next to different parts and maybe the specifications of the round stock you used for the pivot axles? I am getting ready to build one the measurements could speed up the design stage.

Keep up the great work, you are saving another one from us California heathens who cut up cars with bad hell holes! biggrin.gif

Jim



Jim,

As I designed and built it I tried to keep track of all of that stuff and I think I have 90% of it already. My plan was (is) to put a complete "How To" up on the 914 wiki. Problem is that the closer I got to finishing it, the more I thought about moving onto the next stage vs. documenting the design. unsure.gif This is probably a good kick in the pants to get me to finish putting that together. I will try to get that done this weekend and when I do that I will post the link for the entire thing with all measurements, cut plans, etc.

I am pretty happy with it so far. The only thing it is missing is an adjustment to balance the car. but that would add more material/complexity. And as it is right now, it is pretty easy to rotate and lock into position.

Richard
tdgray
Great Start beerchug.gif piratenanner.gif

Keep it up... believe me been there and done that. See the tag below my signature for the proof.

Remember slow and steady wins the race.

I'll be checking this thread often! beer.gif
dfwteenerpr
This is fascinating to see. I have a 74 and a 76 that both have some accident damage on the right rear and the doors don't fit right. I would love to be able to fix them as you're doing, but I'm petrified of getting it wrong. But I also have a rusty shell, I could cut into that to learn without fear of ruining the car, I may have to do that to boost my confidence.
jaminM3
Nice!!

I am starting a very similar project, my car even has the banged up front fender. I decided to start with the fender instead of the longs and jack points. I will be updating my thread too... thumb3d.gif
Rand
Way to go Richard! I love the way you're thinking with your goal list. I will enjoy following your progress.
smilie_pokal.gif
Richard Casto
QUOTE(Richard Casto @ Nov 1 2007, 01:47 PM) *

QUOTE(roadster fan @ Nov 1 2007, 02:32 PM) *

Richard,

Awesome pics of your progress, keep em coming! I really like the simplicity of your rotisserie and looked at your construction photos on your progress site. Could you take pictures of your rotisserie with a tape measure next to different parts and maybe the specifications of the round stock you used for the pivot axles? I am getting ready to build one the measurements could speed up the design stage.

Keep up the great work, you are saving another one from us California heathens who cut up cars with bad hell holes! biggrin.gif

Jim



Jim,

As I designed and built it I tried to keep track of all of that stuff and I think I have 90% of it already. My plan was (is) to put a complete "How To" up on the 914 wiki. Problem is that the closer I got to finishing it, the more I thought about moving onto the next stage vs. documenting the design. unsure.gif This is probably a good kick in the pants to get me to finish putting that together. I will try to get that done this weekend and when I do that I will post the link for the entire thing with all measurements, cut plans, etc.

I am pretty happy with it so far. The only thing it is missing is an adjustment to balance the car. but that would add more material/complexity. And as it is right now, it is pretty easy to rotate and lock into position.

Richard


I finished my "How To" article earlier this week. I need to read through it again as I am sure it needs a few tweaks. Here it is...

"How to build an automotive rotisserie for a Porsche 914"

http://www.roadglue.com/wiki/index.php/How...r_a_Porsche_914


BIGKAT_83
Great write up on the rotisserie build.....It sure sould be in the classic threads here.



Bob
Eric_Ciampa
just a thought... you might want to include some pictures of a 914 on the rotisserie. Couldn't hurt
roadster fan
Richard,

Thanks for doing the write up on the rotisserie construction details. I was wondering if you are able to roll the rotisserie with your car on it out of your garage door. The clearance looks tight, can you measure the height of the opening. If it clears by a mile I guess it wont matter much because I think garage doors are pretty standard in size. I would hate to build it and not be able to get the car out of the garage if need be with it on the rotisserie.

Again, great write up at the 914 wiki. Thanks.

Jim
Richard Casto
QUOTE(roadster fan @ Nov 9 2007, 02:56 AM) *

Richard,

Thanks for doing the write up on the rotisserie construction details. I was wondering if you are able to roll the rotisserie with your car on it out of your garage door. The clearance looks tight, can you measure the height of the opening. If it clears by a mile I guess it wont matter much because I think garage doors are pretty standard in size. I would hate to build it and not be able to get the car out of the garage if need be with it on the rotisserie.

Again, great write up at the 914 wiki. Thanks.

Jim


Jim

The casters I picked lift the bottom of the stands 4" off the floor (I mention this because caster choice will impact ultimate height). With the car in an upright position (mine is locked in that position now), and including casters in the measurement, it is 78 1/2" from floor to top of windsheild frame (high point). My Garage door opening is about 82" in height. This gives me a few inches of clearance to roll the car outside if I want. I have actually not rolled it out however.

I think that most garage doors are either 6'6" or 7' in height. A 6'6" might be tight. If someone had a shorter door and needed to roll it outside, they could built probably use slightly shorter stands. I wanted mine to have some clearance with GT flairs on. So if you wanted less clearance, you might be able to drop the stand an inch, and if you wanted to build this for narrow body only, you could drop another inch or two.

If my car wasn't locked into position right now, I would rotate it and measure the exact amount of clearance I have now so I determine exactly how much shorter the stands could be.

Richard
roadster fan
Richard,

That is exactly the info I needed. I will measure the garage door in the a.m. and put together the material list.

Again, thanks for taking the time to document and share the details on your rotisserie build. Good luck with your project, I will be watching with anticipation popcorn[1].gif

Jim
Richard Casto
Sorry for the lack of an update. Between various home projects (replace water heater, fix dry-rot on front of house), family birthdays and the holidays, the time I usually have to work on the car has been sucked away recently. But I have done some work.

As always my site has more in the way of photos and text. My signature line should always have an up-to-date link. Here are a few quick links...

Main page...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm

Passenger Longitudinal repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_04.htm

Hell Hole repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_06.htm

Enough of that. On with the update!
Richard Casto
I am still working on the passenger side longitudinal and hell hold area. I am working on removing the bottom (rusted) section of the inner longitudinal so that I can fabricate and weld in a replacement. Doing anything in this area is like peeling an onion.

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Here I have removed the clamps that hold in the flexiable heater hose as well as removed the two heater pipes. The one going into the passenger compartment was a total pain in the ass to remove. These have small stick weld beads where they enter/exit the car as well as brazed connections (to small brackets) inside the longitudinal. I am going to fabricate replacement brackets, so the existing ones have been chopped up badly in an effort to remove the pipes.

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I then needed to determine where to cut horizontally. But I wanted to make sure I knew where the rust really ended, so I media blasted the general area. With that done I was able to see where the bad stuff really was and what needed to be cut out and what I will keep.
Richard Casto
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I drilled out the spot welds on the bottom. These are where the floor attaches to the longitudinal.

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I love my Blair Rotabroach spot weld bit. I have learned that if you don't use cutting oil they die a quick death. But if you keep them cool and oiled, they work pretty well. A quick Haiku to show my love. laugh.gif

My Blair Rotabroach
Cutting oil is your friend
You last a long time


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Bottom section cut out and I also grinded off the last bits of the heater pipe bracket. Before I cut I put in some vertical registration marks to help align the replacement once fabricated.
Richard Casto
Thats pretty much it for tonight. Over the next few weeks I am going to finish cleaning up that section (grinding off any remaining flanges, etc.) so that the replacement will fit nicely. I also will probably finish up removing any rusted areas from the hell hole area. Once that is done I will start to fabricate the replacements, test fit and then weld in!
michelko
Hi Richard,
nice project. i love that kind of stuff. Keep the pic´s coming. You are on the right way, keep that cars alive. w00t.gif

smilie_flagge6.gif
Richard Casto
QUOTE(michelko @ Dec 31 2007, 04:11 AM) *

Hi Richard,
nice project. i love that kind of stuff. Keep the pic´s coming. You are on the right way, keep that cars alive. w00t.gif

smilie_flagge6.gif


Michelko,

Your project is one of my inspirations. smile.gif I am less afraid of "digging into hell" knowning that others have done it and have made it work. wink.gif

I think I am just now getting into the fun part.

Richard
John
It looks like you are making good progress with your project.


I have a few questions:

What are you using to media blast? What protective gear do you need? How much of a mess does it make? How much of the media are you able to recover? I am assuming that you are doing this in an open space in your garage.
Richard Casto
QUOTE(John @ Jan 2 2008, 01:34 PM) *

It looks like you are making good progress with your project.


I have a few questions:

What are you using to media blast? What protective gear do you need? How much of a mess does it make? How much of the media are you able to recover? I am assuming that you are doing this in an open space in your garage.


Blaster: 40lb pressure pot from HF. I generally like it so far. This is my first pressure pot blaster. I think to make it work right, you have to screen/filter your media, don’t go crazy with the pressure (generally been using 30-60 psi), get a good ratio of air vs. media and then work on your technique. This is what I am using…

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=34202

Media: Coal slag 30/60 grit in the areas with rust. I am probably going to use paint stripper as much as I can on the panels and then media blast what that doesn’t remove. I may try some aluminum oxide on the panels as well, but so far I like the coal slag (Black Diamond and Black Beauty are common brand names of Coal slag).

Gear: The protective mask/hood that came with the blaster, leather gloves and respirator. You will require a good shower when you are done as you will have dust and grit in everything.

Mess: I built a tent (PVC pipe and 6 mil plastic) in the garage to keep the mess down. When not blasting, I roll the sides of the tent up and tie them in place. I used 6 mil plastic because that is what I had around, but I think it is overly heavy and at some point I am going to replace this with lighter plastic. I probably will also re-engineer some of it to make it a bit higher, but toward the door of the garage I can only make it so high as I like to be able to open/close my garage door. This entire thing will be converted to my paint booth in the future (will need to clean it all up, new plastic, etc.). If you keep the area pretty clear it is pretty easy to sweep up the media and reuse. In addition to what is in the pressure pot, I have a clean 5 gallon bucket and as I sweep up the media, I filter it and put it back into the bucket. I bought two 50 lbs bags of media and I am guessing that while I have cycled it through a number of times, I probably still have 80% of it left.

Here is a picture of the tent…

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Richard Casto
Time for an update

As always my site has more in the way of photos and text. My signature line should always have an up-to-date link. Here are a few quick links...

Main page...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm

Passenger Longitudinal repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_04.htm

Hell Hole repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_06.htm

Floorboard repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_18.htm

Enough of that. On with the update!
Richard Casto
Last month I had been working on cleaning up stuff in the hell hole area so I could start to fabricate parts. I had some places that I needed to finish cutting and/or grinding off the rusted areas

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Richard Casto
Earlier this month I started to fabricate replacement parts. I am using a metal brake to make the basic bends and then doing some hammer forming to do the rest.

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Here is a small metal brake from Harbor Freight. I have been too lazy to mount it to my bench. unsure.gif But it seems to be working OK so far. I also created some forms (steel rod welded to a thin bar) that I can use on the brake to do bends with a few mm radius vs. a sharp bend.

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Here is a test I made with thinner gauge scrap. It is not dimensionally correct, but I wanted to make sure I could get the technique down first.

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Here is the "form" I created so that I could hammer form some "channels"

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This is the test part after doing the hammer forming. The orig part is just above it. The channel in the test part is too deep. I can fix that when I do the real thing.
Richard Casto
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Here is the actual part I plan to put on the car. I adjusted the measurements from the test part and this one is a good match. I haven't hammer formed the channels into it yet.

It was around this time that I realized that I really need to fix part of the floor before I weld in the replacement for the lower passenger longitudinal. So I started work on just the floor near that longitudinal.
Richard Casto
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Here I have marked up the lower section of the bulkhead. It is rusted through where it connects to the floor.

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Here you can see how it rusted through right under the bulkhead. This is the hollow area right behind the seat at the bottom. The floor also has pin holes and pitting all along the area that it mates with the longitudinal.

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Its all cut out. I didn't do the section near the front. I will do it after I get this back section replaced.
Lou W
Richard, this is amazing, you're doing a great job. beerchug.gif
Richard Casto
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By using a combination of the metal brake and hammer forming, I create the "hump" that the seat hinge part mounts to. Under the car there is a reinforcement welde over this and it creates a small box section.

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So far this part is just simple straight bends. But at the end that is under the bulkhead it has a complex curve. I don't have a photo of it, but I create an Oak form by cutting it into the proper shape. Then I lay the metal over this and hammer it over the form. I then do a rough trim of the flange. I will do the final sizing of the flange areas (where the spot welding would be) when I do final fit up.

I still need to do some more work on this part, but it is pretty much in the correct shape. So far the hammer forming has gone much smoother than I could have hoped for.
Richard Casto
Thats it for now. Any comments or questions are welcome! smile.gif
michelko
Hi richard,
your metal working skills are amazing smilie_pokal.gif

Keep on the good work.

Gerflag:
jeeperjohn56
Hey Richard, Your doing a great job of metal work, do you have metal working in your trade? keep the pic's coming, I might have to look at this thread some day, your doing a great job keep up the good work. John smilie_pokal.gif aktion035.gif
Richard Casto
QUOTE(jeeperjohn56 @ Feb 27 2008, 10:47 AM) *

Hey Richard, Your doing a great job of metal work, do you have metal working in your trade?

Nope. No metal forming experience prior to the stuff you see here. Everything is self tough based upon reading how other people have done stuff and from this book...

"Sheet Metal Handbook: How to Form and Shape Sheet Metal for Competition, Custom and Restoration Use" by Ron Fournier

http://www.amazon.com/Sheet-Metal-Handbook...n/dp/0895867575

I am learning as I go!

Richard

BenNC
Richard, it looks like your having too much fun with the metal shaping. I'm starting to think that you don't have enough rust on your car to keep you occupied.

I'll stop by with some strong oxidizer's biggrin.gif
Richard Casto
QUOTE(BenNC @ Feb 27 2008, 12:53 PM) *

Richard, it looks like your having too much fun with the metal shaping. I'm starting to think that you don't have enough rust on your car to keep you occupied.

I'll stop by with some strong oxidizer's biggrin.gif


Ben,

You know there is a strong urge to keep digging in deeper. Since I plan to do this just once it is hard for me to decide what to leave and what to fix. How much pitting from is OK and how much is not? Luckily I think I am dealing with the worst parts of the car right now. Since you have seen the car in person, you know I have front and rear trunk issues, but I have replacement parts for those, so less metal fabrication is a good thing. I hope those areas go quickly. All of this is also good practice for when I weld on the metal flares. Hopefully by then my skill at welding sheet metal will be good enough that the flares will look really nice.

I am having fun when it works out right. Not so much when I run into issues. ar15.gif I will have much more fun when I am finished with the body work!

Richard
Richard Casto
I reached a cool milestone this weekend. I actually put something onto the car vs. unbolting or cutting something off!

As always my site has more in the way of photos and text. My signature line should always have an up-to-date link. Here are a few quick links...

Main page...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914.htm

Floorboard repair...
http://motorsport.zyyz.com/project_914_03_18.htm
Richard Casto
First I needed to mostly finish up the replacement floor section. I had to do this in two sections as my metal brake wasn't wide enough to do it all at once. It is a pain, but it is more practice butt welding thin metal.

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Tack welded in place

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Test fit so I can mark up final trim.

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After final trim, but next to the old section.
Richard Casto
Now for the fun stuff!!

I don't want to just weld that floor section in place as I want to finish up inside the hollow bulkhead behind the passenger seat. To do that I need to replace the section that I cut where the bulkhead meets the floor. Once that is in place I can paint the inside of the bulkhead with POR15 and then seal it up!

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Test fit of paper template

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Test fit of actual part

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Tack weld the new part into place. I had to take car to make sure it was flush prior to tacking into place. I used magnetic weld aids to hold in place. Holes on flanges are for welding to floor later.

Richard Casto
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All welded up. What has worked best for me is short 1/4" to 1/2" beads that don't heat up the metal too much. This prevents warping and burn through. I also am using a copper backing/chill plate.

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Mostly ground down. Some work still needs to be done prior to painting. Looks pretty good!

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Here is the home made copper backing/chill plate. I made it based upon a description I read here on the forum somewhere (can't remember who or what thread). It is basically a copper pipe with a wooden handle in one end and then hammered flat on the other. It works well when but welding thin metal. I can put this behind the two sections and as I weld it can help take some of the heat. If I do manage to blow through a section, I can use this a a backing plate to weld against. It has worked well so far!
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