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alpha434
On the wheel side. Driver side wheel. What parts do I need?

Went to Chipotle, made a right turn accelerating, and pop! Engine spins. CV spins. Wheel doesn't.

wacko.gif
Cap'n Krusty
Ahhhhh, yes, Mc Mexican food ....

Enough of the social commentary (Mc Donald's sold the controlling interest last year). First thing you need to do is chack whether it's the bolts or the CV joint. If it's the bolts, you'll need 4 bolts, 2 plates, and 4 washers. If it's the joint, I believe Eric Shea has 'em. You'll still need the hardware.

The Cap'n
alpha434
Yep.

Bad day for my 914 to be my primary car.

I can't see down into the trailing arm. But isn't that a splined shaft, anyway? Bolted in by the castle nut under the wheel???

PeeGreen 914
QUOTE(alpha434 @ Nov 3 2007, 01:12 PM) *

Yep.

Bad day for my 914 to be my primary car.

I can't see down into the trailing arm. But isn't that a splined shaft, anyway? Bolted in by the castle nut under the wheel???


Not at the part where it would break. The most common area for these to go is at the shaft to transmission joint, but there is a reason why some reffer to these as fuses headbang.gif They bolt on at both sides though.
alpha434
It's not at the trans joint. That part is still firmly attached.

The wheel side is where it's broken.

How do I get in there to see it? Or do I have to yank it just to look at it?
PeeGreen 914
No... You just have to look into the hole where it goes into the trailing arm. Jack it up and see if the wheel spins without the axle moving. If so you know what you need to do wink.gif
McMark
You'll have to remove the inner joint from the trans, then undo the castle nut at the wheel, then pull the axle with the splined stub as one unit. Rebuild as necessary, the reinstall. Don't bother trying to remove the axle and leave the stub in place. I tried that for about an hour, gave up and undid the castle nut and had it out in 15 minutes. pinch.gif
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