pulled my my filter off today because i figured i would change it and it was damp with oil....?
oil had also collected at the bottom of the filter housing and is obviously coming from the tube running to the oil filler cap.
this is the pcv valve?
what's the purpose of this tube? pressure?
anyway, if anyone knows why this is happening...please enlighten me. i'm looking to switch to an idf 44 and i want to keep that carb running right.
thanks in advance
here's a pic of the setup:

It's a PCV hose, and oil vapor is part of that system. Which basically means, it's gonna be oily like that unless you change something. You can run it to a breather box instead of the carb to keep the carb clean.

The filter looks like a K&N, and if it is, it's not oiled correctly. The major filtration function of the K&N comes from the oil that gets sprayed on the filter element. You can get a refresh kit from most parts stores that comes with a cleaner and replacement oil.

The only question I have is, does the pcv valve go directly to the filter, and when is the last time you changed it.

I'm not really familiar with the set-up you have but it looks like the single progressive set-up.

More details please...

A new PCV valve will not usually decrease the amount of oil vapor. Excess blow by is a more likely cause and a fresh motor or hone-n-rings is the only solution for that.

Time will.

That's why I asked how long it's been since he checked.

Could be 1 mile or it could be 100,000 miles...






You long haired freak!!!

thanks for the replies. I checked to see if there is any valve on the hose and it seems lke there isnt. However sounds like oil in the filter is necessary. Anyway car has been running fine. i do think a new carb would bbetter for the cold weather. I have two huge throttle return springs on the progressive now and it still idles fast sometimes. This is a known problem with these carbs right? Think switching to the weber idf is worth it?

The single carbs is not optimum for cold weather. BTDT! When it's really cold they never get warmed up. Never had a problem when I switched to dual carbs.

I'll 2nd Mark's guess on excessive blow by. Do a leak down and compression test.

Make sure your ignition timing is dead on, this could cause your high idle problem, it could also be a sticking advance plate in the distributor.

FWIS, big throttle return springs will usually only cause future linkage problems, as well as an extra hard throttle pedal. You should only need enough return spring to smoothly pull it back to the idle stop.