Here is the full context of that particular reply in the original thread.
QUOTE
Next part in line to have clear cooked on it.
The entire process can be set up to be an assembly line. Some tips:
1. Generally, only metallics require a clear coat.
2. Spray all your base parts. Have a place set up to hang them to cool. DON'T TOUCH them with your bare hands or anything else! Just leave it be.
3. Then, you can cover them directly with clearcoat.
yeah, yeah.. you touched it after the basecoat didn't you, cause it looked all purty?
4. Put some vinyl gloves on. You need to rewash with water soluble degreaser, and then flush with water. Get ALL the water off you can with clean lint-free towels. If you leave ANY water on it at all, the clear will water-spot. Best to pre-heat to 150 or so, as well, then spray clear.
The instruction you are asking about is in reference to what to do *IF* you touched the part applying base coat and *BEFORE* applying clear coat. I did my entire suspension on the brown car, and was on the phone with Rusty prior to and during his work here. Not that I'm an expert or anything, just BTDT.
The metallic powders require a base coat of metallic powder. Then they require a clear coat of powder after the base coatis appied, baked and cooled. Freshly baked powder coated parts will be tacky until the powder gets good and cool. If you touch a powder coated part before it fully cools, it will leave an impression in the still soft, still liquefied (relative) coating.
The parts will look all shiny and purty after baking. You will want to touch it ASAP when you see it all smooth and shiny. You *MUST* resist this urge. Let it cool. Then you won't have to worry about cleaning the part again prior to applying clear.
Make sense? Clear? If you still have a question lemme know.
)