Thought I'd post a few pics of my continuing (what seems like a life long project.)
Pic 1 is of the front corner,I finally got around to painting the Getty Design hood on the front that I bought last Aug.
This past weekend,after the paint had set on it about a month,I color sanded it and buffed it out.
I spent 4 hours sanding & buffing on the hood alone.
Sorry about the dark pic it was taken late in the day.
If ya look towards the cowl area of the pics,you can see the ridge beam of my carport,It's 12 feet up from the floor.
Ron

Sorry for the big pic,
#2 is a front on.
I'll tell ya,color sanding is a P.I.T.A.,but it can make anyone look like an expert painter if ya have patience.All my painting so far has been done out in the yard,with over the counter Dupont centauri signal orange enamel.
Ron

Pic 3 is another front on shot.
I'm gonna get the hang of this adobe program yet.

pic 3 is an engine shot,
I just got the sheetmetal back from the powder coater.It's hard to tell,but I had it done in a dark purple.I wanted something to contrast to the signal orange.
R

Great looking car Ron.

I resized your first pic. I couldn't see but half of it without horizontal scroll bars.

Keep the pics coming.

last pic is another engine shot.
Let me talk about the engine sheetmetal a minute.
There are 3 types of sheetmetal I've seen for doing a 6.
1 in fiberglass,and 2 in actual steel.I have 1 in fiberglass, and the one you see on th 3.6 is one version of the steel.
one steel version is a carbon copy replica,stamped on a press,w/all the contours,indents,notches,holes,etc.Usually sells in the $425-450 range.I've seen them from Patrick,and I think Pelican has the same thing.
I bought that mine thinking I was buying the same thing,and thought I was saving $50.00 as I'd seen these sheetmetal kits listed from several sources for around $375.00.
As many of you may know,I work in a fabshop,and I was stunned at the piece of crap I got when I rec'd my sheetmetal.
Just to let everyone know.That sheetmetal you see on ebay,look at it closely.It literally looks like someone was trying to make it from there garage using common hand tools.It's also a lot thinner than the original factory stuff.
It came in rusty.There were no holes for nothing.
I'll probably replace it in the future w/ the real repo stuff.
Word of advice is,I didn't save anything trying to save the $50.00.You'll be happier w/the better quality stuff.


Ron

Ron,

If I remember right.. this is a painted fiberglass bumper right?

Nice looking car...!!!!!

brant

Tell us about your engine. Looks substantial.

Yes,the front bumper is glass,came from A.I.R.
Major work to get it to look like it fits the contour of the car correctly.I probably had 12-16 hours labor in just that bumper.The spoiler underneath was another horror story.
The hood fit respectfully right outa the box.
Engine.I bought it a couple years ago from a guy out in St.Louis '95 993 engine.Paid 4k for it,He had it in a '70 911.I spent a day driving it.It ran great,nice power,no smoke,no problems.He bought a varioram to replace it,and just wanted it outa the way.Thought it'd be great for my '6r.
All the brackets and conversion hardware I made here in the fabshop,I experimented by doing the cad drawings,and lasering out the parts,all in aluminum.I didn't buy anything from anyone that sells that stuff like Patrick.I polished all the aluminum once I liked the result.
All thats left to get the engine in is the clutch setup.I'll probably call Instant-G for that.And buy a T-B diff for the 915 box.That will probably happen this spring.Engine should be back in this summer
On the clutch setup,I lost an entire year setting the engine up to run a 5-1/2"twin disc Tilton unit,only to learn thru my own ignorance that there aren't any streetable clutch discs to fit it.Ya live and learn.
I am gettin ancy,but I think I'm still a year or 2 away from a fire in the hole.
Anybody w/a/question,ask.I'll share my experiences,maybe they'll help someone.
Ron

Is it wrong to be in love with a car?!? That's very nice Ron! Very very nice! Maybe some day mine will look like that, except yellow. I hear yellow cars are faster.

Ron, Did you flip the plenum tubes to put the intake to the front? I'm doing a 3.6 as well and think it looks cleaner to flip it. I've heard it will fit without flipping, but I think the way yours fits is better. I've looked at mine and am curious how to flip it. Do you cut the webbing between the cross tubes?

Also, I'm going to run a set of 17" wheels similar to yours. What size spacers are you running in the front and rear??

BTW - I dig your car!

The entire intake unit turned around 180 degrees.the throttle body was then flipped over.There is still enough slack in the vacuum lines and wiring for it all to still reconnect.
I saw it done to a car in a magazine,called Patrick's to pose the question,and he said that's how it's done with no cutting to the trunk.This summer when I get it in I'll know for sure,but whatever the result,I'll make it work w/o butchering up my trunk.
WHEELS.
The backs are 18x10's w/a 52mm offset I think.There are 2" spacers on ea.side.
Fronts are interesting.Fronts started out as scrap 18x10s from a local dealership.same 52mm ofset.Sent them to Wheels of America in Dallas.They narrowed them to 18x8,trued them,balanced them,and refinished them for $125.00 ea.They are perfectly backspaced now w/o any spacers on the front,just the stock 914/6 hubs.
Ron

Ron Love the car. Just purchased the Getty glass front bumper and valance. I am going for the chrome stock look, what paint did you use to get that look?? Also did you pain the black?? Also what type of problems did you have in the fitting. I am using the stock appearing front valance. Thanks for all ot the info.
CCCLINCAMP9148

Craig,
The bumper is painted w/ centauri acrylic enamel.silver is 1974 Ford std.silver met.Top section was std.gloss black w/a flattener added,cut at 33%.
The top section had a lot of xtra mat'l where it meets the hoodline and front fender edge.
This had to be filed a little at a time.Bolt bmpr on tight mark w/pencil,area to file,remove bmpr
& file.repeat process over & over til til fit is half assed acceptable.One note,as you tighten the bmpr bolts,bmpr will begin to buckle in middle.I took a hacksaw and sawed thru the buckle to remove the stress.Then glassed over the end of the cut.Took bmpr off when hardened,flipped over and glassed backside completely up.Flipped over again and removed & cleaned up what I added to the exposed area.Nothing I've ever bought has fit as it looks in catalogs.Also,the oil cooler opening was off by about 1"between the bmpr & my valance.I had to fix it also.The getty hood was worth the money though,fine piece of workmanship.
Ron

Oh man that is nice.

I don't think that engine fits, let's try it in my car for a week.




M

Ron,

I was always under the impression that the stock 9146 engine tin doesnt work with the 3.6 engines (it doesnt fit into the car because the engine is wider and therefore doesnt line up.) Most of the installs I have done are into race cars where we run NO tin.. but my latest 3.6 install is into a stock tub for the street. I know it bolts on but.. I didnt think it would fit into the stock rubber pieces.

Please correct me if I'm wrong (I have already powder coated all the stock sheet metal..and it would be NO hassles for me to use it if I can.. but I didnt think I could)


B

Oh.. and instead of me buying the power steering pump block off and buying the lower pulley from somebody who marks it up 100%.. would you be interested in selling me two sets of each ??


B

your final result of the front bumper/valance turned out very nice!

Do you have a cage or any chassis stiffening?

Did you extend the rear flares to accept the 10's?

I like the look of the bumper for the track car, it looks lighter (weightwise) than black.

Ron. Do you have any more engine pics?? I'd like to see some up close shots of cooling tin, especially around the distributors. I have two sets of sheet metal kits, one steel and one fibreglass. Haven't really decided which to use yet. I figured FG I can add/delete and keep it looking stock and steel will have to be patched in some places which will take a little more work to look "stock". I'm leaning toward the steel though.

When you said you rotated the whole manifold, you mean you loosened the 6 coupler hoses and pulled both plenums and center section as one piece and rotated it? The only other 3.6 I've seen flipped looked like they only flipped the center section.

Like this............

From his pic.. it appears he flipped the center section over. Some of the mounts on the plenum section are in the stock locations.

Here is stock (and the one I'm working with)

B

Here it is with the intake off but the bases still on.


B

...nice sock

Brad, Yeah....mine looks the same. I was planning on just flipping the center section, but when I look at the center tubes it seems like you would have to cut the webbing that joins the two tubes and rotate them to get the alignment correct?? Check it out......maybe I'm being dense or maybe the 964 intake is different than the 993. Mine is a '92 964 motor. I vote for me being dense

Back at work,now I can give some answers.
Yes Brad,the sheetmetal is much modified.
The fit in the area of the fuel lines was about 1"short from reaching the cam chain covers on both sides.
I spotwelded material and folded it over 180 deg.so it has a nice snug fit in the groove in the chain covers.had to do it to both sides across the front.sides fit ok,back pcs.had to have holes for all wiring and such.Expect about 20-30 hours fab'n to make the aftermarket sheetmetal fit a 3.6l
Ron

I have to admit,I had my parts made by one of the machinist's here in the shop.If I had to price out the work,the aftermarket parts.blockoff,single groove pulley,etc.are priced pretty much where they should be.I just had material,and guys needing sumtin to do.
Ron

I did add one of those 10pc.stiffener kits,a roll cage is gonna happen somewhere down the road.
Rear flares are an interesting story.
They 11"glass units,1st set bought a couple years ago from a place listed as rennspeed.The guy on the phone sounded iranian or sumthin.When I gotem,1 side fit nice,the other fit like shit.So I called the guy and complained,asked em if his flares came from A.I.R.He says no,he molds them himself.Any way,I'm stuck with them.So,I called A.I.R.& order another set of 11" flares from them this time.They come in,and guess what?Both sets of flares,side by side are identical w/the same p-poor fit on the same side.It taught me a little lesson.
I do still have that extra set of 11"rs.
I am gonna take the glass flares off when I get a set of repo steel flares,and Ill widen em to fit.

Ron

Webbing was removed,
It did interfere when the t.b.was flipped.
R

Ron you modified the tin to fit the engine... but does the tin fit the car ? Have you physically test fit the engine with the tin in place into the tub ? This was my concern.

Thanks for the heads up on the billet pieces.


B

Haven't gotten that far yet,but I'm getting close.
I still gotta buy a clutch setup so this summer is the target.
One way or another I WILLLLLL make it work.
915 box also needs a T-B diff.
So I'm about 2-3k left from boltin it up and goin after the next hurdle.
Ron

Dont let anyone sell you anything special. The stock 3.2 flywheel for the 915 (and sensor ring) bolts right up with stock 911 components to the 3.6 crank/seal. I think I just spent 1000$ for new everything (PP/Flywheel/Disc/ThrowoutB/pilot bearing) Porsche has a "sport clutch kit for the 915's"


B

OK......Now that's news! You mean I dont need a PMS flywheel?? I would love to run a "stock" flywheel as I've heard of stalling probs with the lightweight PMS unit. Let me make sure I have this straight, I can use a stock 3.2 flywheel ('84-'85?) on my 3.6 engine and use stock 3.2 clutch components??? Is the stock 3.2 emitter ring the same as the 3.6?

Not to snub my nose at Patrick Motor Sports goodies, but they are expensive and I really don't care about a light weight flywheel and the potential stalling problems for a street car.

What do you use for clutch linkage, hydro or cable???