CHANGED SINCE FIRST POSTED, PLEASE REREAD.


1.7 FI running for years with no major concerns.
Spark good


I filled up with gas 20 miles ago.
Started and drove 3 times 10-15 miles each time.
the 4th trip wont start!

When I filled up with gas This has been the first time in years that I completely filled the tank. I have noticed a gas odor since the fill up, but find no leaks.

It seems like I may be getting to much gas, reason for odor when starting.

When it does start only with out the pump pluged in, it starts quickly and then dies after 10 sec after the fule is out of the lines.

Plug in the pump, and it will start and try to stay running then seems like it loading up with fule and die.So then still a no start and back to unplug the pump again, crank and run fuel out.



In the past if it did not start on the first few cranks, I would fully depress the gas pedal and slow alow it to return back up, and the engine would start. This only would happen sometimes.

Could this be a pump fule return concern?

First, check to see if you have any unplugged wires in the engine bay. There was one person who had his CHT unplugged, and the engine would only run with the fuel pump unplugged. Gravity feed was just enough to get the engine to run because the unplugged CHT made the injectors open for so long...

--DD

Thanks Dave, but its pluged in and everything looks good. I have been driving this car for years, and never had run into this one before.

As you can see I try to keep things in order.

Swaped out CHT no help, checked again for any thing loose. I was thinking maybe the filter or pump. Could the pump fail in some way related to return to a full tank?

I removed injectors 1 + 2 from the intake to check for fuel, cranked it over with the pump pluged in, and it idles on two cly.

Inj 1 + 2 spray just fine.

? now what?

The more I remove fuel, the more it runs?

Do me a favor and post a pic of your plugs. (in good light)

I was just thinking the same thing. Let me pull one.

have you tried monitoring your fuel pressure through the process? if there is a problem in delivery you should be able to see it in the pressure.

I had a similar problem that I chased down for two months. My car would run fine and then inadvertenly die out and flood. Pulled the relay cleared it and then sometimes it would work and sometime not. My problem ended up being the computer. However, go thru the following steps and be patient.

some possible casuses,

1. CHT- replace and possibly disconnect and ground directly to the frame. This will act as if the CHT is hot and run lean. This will tell you if the CHT is the problem/ Sounds like you already did this.

2. Check for injectors stuck open and proper spark.

3. Clean all of the ground. Remove the air cleaner and you will see a bunch of white wires connected to the base of the intake. clean and sand as needed.

4. Check fuel pressure. Buy a gage at Harbor Frieght for 15 bucks and connect it to the fuel rail on the driver side. There is a port on the ceter of the fuel rail. Pull the screw and connect the hose there. If there is too much pressure than it will cause the injectors to possibly stick open and leak. The high pressure is often caused by a plugged fuel return line. The pressure should be around 28PSI. I have seen from 24-32. If this is the problem the gage should read well above these numbers. If this is the problems check fuel pressure gage (On the drive side toward back of car engine compartment), fuel return line and fuel pump.
Fuel Pressure gage:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...temnumber=92699

5. Last think I did was replace the computer. It is a lot earier than you would think. Only takes about 5 minutes. Remove it from the mounts on the car. Then reomove the screw on the circular cable clamp, then slide the grey cover off. All the electrical lines are on one quick connect/disconnect. With this check the lines going to the injectors from the computer. I sure someone on the club can loan you a computer to test.

6. MPS manifold pressure sensor, but I don't think so as it would run a bit and would do the same thing after you disconnected the fuel pump.

7. If nothing else works, Possibly an issue with replay board but doubtful as you are getting fuel.

Hope this helps. It was a rough two months for me until I figure out my problem. Everyone told me that it could never be the computer but it was.

Also check the Cold Start Valve (injector). If leaking or stuck open .... flooded engine.

Cold start could do it but from what I have read it will just cause it to run rich not totally flood out instantly. Either way just disconnect it to rule it out. It is on the throttle body under the air cleaner.

Here is the plug

And I checked the grounds, they were good. The CHT I replaced. Went to start, and NO power to the pump.

Chech the fuse and relay, good. Check the board pin and connector., all good.
Recheck the fuse.....And Look at the pictures.

1 When this fuse is in the holder, it looks good.

2 Tested good.

3 Circuit completed only by the edge of the holdr arcing to the fuse strip.

4 I am sure not a consistant single.

Starts and runs better then ever, I have been chasing a slight chuhing/trailer hitching concern for sometime. It seem to be gone now. I think the poor conection
by this fuse was the cause.

Check out this one.

Quit while driving

More Pictures

if the cold start valve is leaking, it can flood the engine. when you unplug the injection system it starts cause you're not pumping new gas into it, just air, eventually the plugs dry out and fireand it will run till the gas is burned out.

Unplugging the FI is precisely the trick I had to use to get my car going when the CSV was leaking on mine. think how much gas would leak in while the system goes from 30psi to 0.

Well it runs better then ever with the fuse replaced. But I still have the crank no start at times. When I pulled and checked the CSV it did not leak. I pulled it from the intake and left the fuel lines on. under pressure from the pump priming no leak.