i know there is a member that sells the kit both for the center tunnel and the engine compartment, but my dad works on gas lines and has most of the parts already. would anyone that has bought the kit, or even more graciously the creator of the kit, list the specs on it such as lengths, id, fitting types?

for the tunnel lines, i can just measure the plastic tube and cut to length right?

what is the correct id of the SS lines?

fwiw, im all for supporting the member vendors, i just have most of this stuff already, it just needs to be bent. any help is greatly appreciated!

I did the ones one my 2 liter with 3/8" for both feed and return.

If you can give me a day or three, I can get the exact specs of the line I used.

It depends on what year car you have. I believe the later year cars used the same diameter line of the smaller variety for both supply and return, while earlier cars used a larger line for the supply. I remember someone on the forum posting a picture of SS lines they bent and installed that ran all the way from the front thru the tunnel and up into the engine bay in one shot. I'm replacing mine this winter and while I like Racer Chris' lines, I like the idea of not having any fuel line junctions under the engine (no leaks to worry about).

i like that idea too, didnt know that could be done!

i have a 76 2.0L

any pictures of this stuff?

There is a nice technical article about this on the world board:
Stainless Fuel line Install

Also one on the bird board:
Replacing Plastic Fuel Lines

--- bill

Its ridiculously easy. Two 5' lenghts of 5/16" steel brake lines. Run them through the tunnel from the rear, and make the bends in the front with yours hands, and insert through the rubber grommet into the tank area. Good quality fuel injection lines and real fuel injection hose from lines to tank and lines to engine. Replace ALL the rubber lines while your there. Hardest part is emptying and removing tank. Have your tank cleaned while its out!

Here is the link for the guy that ran SS line all the way from the fuel pump in front to the engine bay.

Question: If I run SS line thru the tunnel and end it at the fire wall, is there any reason I can't run FI hose from there up to the engine bay. The hose could be secured to the firewall with Adel clamps

My advice is to purchase them from Chris Foley!

You really have to put some kind of flare on the ends or the hose can easily pull right off, and you don't want that with 28psi of fuel pressure. If you don't believe me, clamp a piece of rubber hose on to that stainless tubing, and see how easy it is to pull off.

I went through the same thing, I've got some nice tubing benders, flaring tool, blah, blah. Stainless is not easy to flare, and much harder to bend.

I've done copper lines, and plated steel line for replacement fuel line. These have worked just fine, and yes copper is more than adequate for this. I'd never try to fabricate stainless fuel lines again, at least as long as you can purchase them pre-made.

Just buy them. I am the same kinda of guy who says. "well I can make that so why buy it" it's worth buying them and saving your time for other projects. They go right in no problem and you'll get them in a few days.


http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainless_fuel_lines.htm

is the 2 piece set just for the center tunnel lines?
and if i dont get the fittings (-6AN or somethin like that) would there be any welding needed once i get them or??

just seems pricey for a semi bent tube of stainless steel.. i have the stuff, might as well do it myself. ill probably stick to rubber hose in the engine compartment as well.

The reason you see conflicting information is that cars are not all configured the
same or have been modified. Some have fuel pumps up front, some in rear.
Some have different sized lines some don't. Some address the different sized lines
with a special short multi sized hose, some use a filter with 2 different fitting sizes.
Some have had the fuel pumps relocated from rear to up front.
There isn't one common configuration.

The best thing to do is look carefully at what you have and determine what
you need for your particular car.

Your tank is out so it should be pretty easy.

Measure the sizes of the tubes poking into the tank area, then
see how they are attached in the engine compartment along the firewall.

Remove them and look at what you have and see if it is something that you
want to make yourself, if not buy the pre-made ones and figure out how to
adapt them to your configuration.

If you don't have a set of calipers, borrow a set or buy a set. It makes measuring
all these hoses and tubes really easy. I have a
set from HarborFreight and use them all the time, they aren't expensive:
6" digital Caliper


You shouldn't need to do any welding. You have a 76 so you already should have
the pump up front and it should be a really easy replacement. Just measure
what you removed and replace the plastic lines with the stainless lines.

Here is a thread I did with a few tips on removing the lines. They do come
out really easy once the 2 retaining clips are loosened.
Here is a link to that thread: Autopsy of Plastic fuel lines

Don't over think this, it really isn't that hard.

--- bill

thanks bill
that thread is great too, now i know what im dealing with (i like pictures heh)

i will try to tackle this project on wednesday! (although i should be studying for finals... academic probation is no joke lol)

To capture the hose on the SS tube ..... run a die over it to cut some ridges (threads) ..... the hose will stay nicely with a clamp.

Gee... I do believe I have heard that somewhere before.....

Oh.. that's right. I did that when I wrote the article a few years back!!!

you really SHOULD relocate the fuel pump to the front while your at it.

I honestly don't know why everyone goes to the trouble of metal lines (except for race rules). To me it's just more fittings and work. Todays fuel injection hoses are very good and will last a LONG time. I ran one solid piece from the fuel pump under the tank to the filter mounted by the oil tank. I also used one piece from the engine to the tank for the return line. After all the inside is the coolest and most protected area of the car.

In the cabin portion I slipped some heat shrink over the lines and in the engine compartment I covered it with Goodridge heat insulation.
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looks like that blue circled line has been replaced already, looks brand new

but thats a pic of where im at. ill look into getting the correct replacement hoses and such. thanks so much for that breakdown there.

you can see where i took those felt pads off.. should i replace those with new felt or some kind of soft padded sticky tape or something?

I'm way older than you and did it first .... na na na na ... but we didn't have paper and pencil then so I couldn't write it up as I was out of charcoal.

Is there any reason you can not use a braided stainless steel line?

What is the type of flare called that is on the end of the fuel rails? Is there a tool one can purchase for making that?

I am no expert on this, but I installed SS lines from Tangerine in my 71 just as insurance when I was replacing fuel lines.

I think you could use SS braided lines, but they are very abrasive to anything they touch so they need to be isolated.

The flare on the ends of the FI tubing is called a bubble flare, and is metric IIRC. Tangerine (Chris Foley) puts them on the SS lines they sell.

IMO, for the price of the SS lines from Tangerine, it is a no brainer for the ease of installation and peace of mind.

Jim

Actually, the term is hose bead. Bubble flares are used on 914 brake lines.
The tooling I bought to form the hose bead cost about $350 from an aircraft tool supplier. That was the cheapest set I could find. I have to ream the ends of the .035wall tubing so the wall is only .025" or the beading tool won't work.
Using braided hose would be more expensive and time consuming than buying and installing my hard lines.