on the oil filter stand there is a pressure releif passage (spring loaded ball). i have to think this is a bypass for if the oil filter plugs. can the oil bypass ever weaken some over the years and should this bring concern? i have 2 and they seem to take lightly different pressure to push in. anyone ever mess w/ it? makes me wonder if running a good filter may just cause oil to bypass it.
mike
Full Version: oil filter bypass ball & spring
That is one reason it is better to go full flow so 100% of the oil is filtered. The spring is is on the soft side and some of the oil is bypassed from being filtered. I've seen
where someone had a bolt tighten on top of the ball preventing it from opening.
where someone had a bolt tighten on top of the ball preventing it from opening.
QUOTE(craig downs @ Nov 16 2007, 10:45 PM) 
That is one reason it is better to go full flow so 100% of the oil is filtered. The spring is is on the soft side and some of the oil is bypassed from being filtered. I've seen
where someone had a bolt tighten on top of the ball preventing it from opening.
the full flow idea would be duplicated (using o.e. oil passageways of course) if the ball was modified "however" to force a "no bypass" condition. no?? i am building a 2056 presently and kicked the full flow idea around but really didnt see the benifit -to- cost for my stock street d-jet (wouldnt be the first time i've been way wrong).
mike
I haven't done it, but I knew a guy who glued his shut with JB Weld and was successful. I know another guy who did it and blew up oil filters.
If you allow your engine a couple of minutes to warm up then you shouldn't
blow any filters. With the ball not allowed to open would create a full flow condition
but the stock arrangement is restrictive with its small galleys and many turns
blow any filters. With the ball not allowed to open would create a full flow condition
but the stock arrangement is restrictive with its small galleys and many turns
QUOTE(craig downs @ Nov 16 2007, 11:53 PM)
If you allow your engine a couple of minutes to warm up then you shouldn't
blow any filters. With the ball not allowed to open would create a full flow condition
but the stock arrangement is restrictive with its small galleys and many turns
since i'm not re-routing the oil to full flow, i have what i have as far as the stock internal oil passages. do you think this would be more restictive to "jb weld" over the relief than to let the oil bypass the filter normally? i guess with my high volume pump, running a good mahle filter and with warming up the oil i should have no oil starvation problems with better filtation. i would also want to make sure the filter is changed religiously so the oil does not block/starve as i have no bypass... too bad there isnt an adjustable spring/pressure setting on the bypass
by the way when full flow is added which rear passage is elboed? (not at the oil pump) is it one that is behind the flywheel, only acessable with motor out? my passages are drilled & tapped and wonder if it can be done at later date when installed
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