So overall my engine is running fine (1.7 djet) but I have a few minor problems.

My AAR didn't seem to be working so I took it out and soaked it in penetrating oil and it still didn't work. I didn't have anything to plug up the AAR hose ports on the intake elbow and on the air distributor (to further look into the AAR on the bench), so I just put the AAR back in but left it's electrical connection unplugged (Since it seemed to be stuck shut anyways).

So now of course when I start the engine up cold I have to manually hold the idle up. I do that for about a minute and drive off. For 30 minutes or so after starting up, my idle stays at 1400-1600 rpm. WTF? Is the AAR suddenly magically working even though I have its electrical lead unplugged?

Next, I'll turn the engine off for 10+ minutes and get back in. Starts up fine and I can drive off. But then from now on the idle is complete shit at under 400 rpm or so. I have to keep my foot in it to keep the engine from possibly dying on me. I figured this was the normal warm start over-richness but the low idle doesn't seem to go away at all within time. Once in a while the idle will set down to normal (800) for a short time but then starts bogging down low again.

So what could this be? Is it possible my idle enrichment (ECU knob) is set too rich? Or do I simply need to bring up the idle on idle screw? I wouldn't want to do something to fix/patch up the problem when the real culprit was something else......My gas mileage seems to be on the low side, and I seem to smell fuel when pushing the engine hard. I checked obsessively for leaks but can't find anything. Thanks - Zack

Bumpage. Any help fellas?

From what I recall Zack. The idle control screw on the T/B controls the amount of air and the nob on the ECU alters the mixture. If your idle screw works you can control the mixture. If it dose not work you may have an air leak below the T/B. Get the car completely warmed up before you try to adjust anything.
The AAR can be tested by hooking it up to a 12 volt source and letting it warm up for about ten minutes, then try to blow through it. It should be closed. If it is in and not hooked up it might never close.

Hook up the AAR to a 12v source, it should be rather warm at the bottom after 5mins.
Spray PB Blaster into it, lots of it and it will work free. The darn things rust inside sticking.

All idle adjustments must be done after the engine is hot.

sounds like a vac. leak.

Did you adjust the idle back down AFTER you drove the car for 30min?

what happens is, everything expands when it's hot and creates a leak. When it cools down things contract and seal.

I would say your likely culprit is air intake man., at the head.

get a can of carb cleaner and start spraying around this area and see if the rpm's go up.

CAUTION, USE THIS SPARINGLY" IT IS FLAMABLE.

it takes a very small amount to see if there is a leak.

You can put you AAR in the oven @ about 150* and see if the piston cycles.

IF it cycles and the 12v connection does NOT work, the engine bay heat is enough to cycle it BUT it takes awhile and you will have a lean miss until it closes.

If you like, you can bring it by on weds and I can take a look.

I have to replace the tranny in my truck, but should be home weds. afternoon.

Keith

As for testing the AAR- Where do I put the - ground lead? On the AAR body/case?
My car is still idling strange but now with zero consistency. I need to go and look through everything.

Keith, I have a ton of errands to do tomorrow (Weds) but if I can fit some time in there I'll give you a call. I haven't tried my car on the freeway yet though.

did you try the carb cleaner yet?

I will be around tomorrow, come by if you can

You can certainly try to get the AAR working...test it etc... but it sounds like you have bigger problems than the AAR.

As one person stated you most certainly have a vaccum leak somewhere. With all that eratic idle you have to. Start checking for leaks and report back.