Need some info/help on this one . In removing and replacing the plastic/rubber fuel lines with steel ones .

Does one have to take the engine out of the car or can it be done with the engine in the car ? I realize that taking the engine out of the car would make it a heck of a lot easiier but taking the engine out by ones self is sort of a pain inthe old keester .

Any ideas on this project ?

Chris F. , if you can jump on board this one and add some of your wisdom would be great .

Other than that , Happy Thanksgiving to one and all and your families .

Just checking if anyone had any pearls of wisdom on this subject ?

I just want to do it the easiest and safest way possible .

From what I have heard you can do it all with the engine in the car. I have never done this so I don't really know though.

I did mine recently with the engine in the car. I'll dig up the link and post here in a moment. The trick is to remove the rear right wheel and snake the new lines in at an angle utilizing the space created from the tire being removed.

T

Okay here is the link to my fuel line install.

T

I installed my SS fuel lines with the engine in the car and all of the wheels on. I do have the taller (4 ton?) jack stands. I'm not sure if I could have done it if the car was any lower.

do i have to have the car on stands to JUST remove the old lines? ive got some free time today but no replacement lines yet.

do you pull the old lines out from the back or the front tank area?

and im guessing theres somethin that needs to be disconnected in the engine area to facilitate the lines being able to be pulled through?

Unless you are about 60 lbs you'll need to put the car in the air just to access everything.

You will have to remove the gas tank so you can access and disconnect the fuel lines up front. And, yes, you will need to disconnect the fuel lines from the engine bay (or remove/cut them down below). I have carbs on mine but I am guessing everyone's is different. Pull them out from the rear firewall.

Good luck.

T

I would put it on stands but I guess it, depends on how skinny you are.
You will have to be under the car to do this.
Crawl under the car and have a look. It will be fairly obvious what needs
to be disconnected. Shouldn't be much. A few clamps and possibly a few holders.
Watch out for leftover fuel in the lines as there will definitely be some.

Don't forget about the 2 sets of clips in the center tunnel (at least there were 2 in a 74).
These hold the lines inside the tunnel.
One under the plate that is under the center tray where the wiring harness comes
in and the other under the shifter. The shifter will have to be removed to get to it.
The lines will get hung up on these if you don't loosen them. You will also want
to use them to secure the new lines.

--- bill

ah ok. yea my car is about 2" off the ground so even being 60lbs would be too fat

guess ill have to pick up another set of stands (isnt that like a 914 momentus occasion or something)

so after i disconnect the stuff in the engine firewall connected to the lines, its just a matter of yanking em out from underneath the car? and the steel that sticks out like 2" in the front tank area comes out too right?

and ive got the tank out already, was just thinkin this was some prep work i could do with my downtime but alas, i have only 2 jack stands...

OT: is it better to use jack stands or like 4 ramps?

The steel tips in the gas tank well come out with the lines. I did mine with just the rear on stands, and had both wheels off for access. I think I could have done it with both wheels on. I did the job solo and had no problems, done in less than 45 minutes including hooking up the tank.

I used soapy water to lube up the grommets, and I guess a helper could have saved me a few minutes when negotiating the lines thru the tunnel.

All in all a pretty easy job even with the engine in the car. Good Luck.

Jim

It will be a lot easier if you open up the inspection ports down the center tunnel. If the lines are still in 'as installed' conditions there are tabs holding them in place in the central tunnel. You cannot pull the lines through the tabs because of the bend in the hard line up where it goes through the front firewall. I found getting the lines through that front grommet a real PITA.

I'd be uncomfortable going up 4 ramps. My norm is ramps on the rear and jacks on the front. You may be able to do this job with just the rear end up. In theory in should actually be better because you get more of an angle to work with.

This is true and, for me, the hardest part of the job. I removed the rubber grommet first, fished the lines, put them through the gromment, and then reinstalled the gromment with the help of silcon spray. Still not easy but I got it done.

T

figuring out the entry angle at the lower firewall is the most difficult part. be patient. i removed the tunnel carpet (no center console in my car) and front access. r+ring the soft lines under the tank should be part of the project unless your's are NEW. make sure all of the bendy line retaining tabs are flattened in the center tunnel before you put the ss lines in. if you are running carbs and a pump with no return line feature you need only do the supply line.

k