I think I have a 1" rear spacer on the bottom of my spring. I would like to take it out to make my car have less rake. My question is how much camber change will 1 in of lowering make? Thanks

Andrew

Damn good question Andrew

I'm going to guess .5 I forget exactly how much the 914 trailing arm changes as it goes into bump.

It would be interesting to put some math to it and find out for sure.

You dont even know how happy I am to hear you ask this technical question. It means you understand that the suspension changes throughout its range (very few understand this)

B

Thanks!

I try to figure these things out.. Hmm math equation you say? Well I guess I'll have to figure it out! Or just do it and then tell you guys.. hmm..

Anyways, heres a pic of my newly finished flare. Im debating on doing more or not.. it would be finishing work, dont want it bigger. It fits 245 on 8in Gotties.. It was my test rim.. What do you guys think?

Andrew

lazy me

more

And reason for question

havent done much on this flare

Man are those oranges on that tree. It sure looks good to me sitting watching the snow come down. It's snowing so hard it knocked out the satelite. I can't even watch the football games

Dave

Ouch, not much of a football fan, but I can say that the oranges taste pretty good

Andrew

May just be the wheel in the gutter, but looks like a teeny little bit of camber on the rear there already.
Speaking of lowering, I was going to lower my car all around 1-1&1/2". Fronts' easy.
I called a very knowledgable very reputable NW Porsche place about the rear and they said "I think you just cut the springs" . . I'm a little suspiciuos about that, and was suprised to hear them say it.
Adjustable spring perches right? I have an old ( old timewise but pretty new mileage wise) receipt for new shocks and 150 lbs springs that came with my car. . .any advice on this next project for me?
TIA
R O

Michigan is getting their butts whipped as usual in the Rose Bowl.....

Good to hear that CAMBER (bite me Brad), will go negative when the butt comes down.

Well my main reason for asking this is because of tire wear, I'll be buying some new tires with my christmas money and I dont want to have them wear improperly. Right now I dont care cus my Yoke A-008's are hard as a rock...

How much would be a good amount of camber for a street car, and ocasional autox? -1? -1.5? -.5? 3?

I think I have 1.75 on the left and 3 degrees negetive on the right.. Dont know why... But that was in the dark with one hand.. Could be wrong..

Andrew

Ok, dad checked it and it showed about 1.5 each side give or take a couple tenths. (there both even)...

Andrew

RO,

Somebody told you to cut the springs ?? LOL Use the threaded coil over setup or run stock Bilstein rear shocks. They have "some" adjustability for height. They have a clip that you move up/down in 13mm increments. Not precise for corner weighting but good enough for a street car.

Andrew,

1.5 is a little excessive and will wear the tires faster than normal. Shoot for 1.2 rear and front. This will be a decent compromise for street/autox.

And yes.. remove the rear spacer.. drop the ass.

B

How will I get camber back when I take the spacer out? Im guessing I'll get a little over -2 degrees with the spacer out.. Do I put in shims to push the outside of the trailing arm down to counter act the camber? Or is there another way... After all is said and done I'll get a proper alignment.

Thanks
Andrew

Adding shims gives positive camber, removing creates negitive camber

You will add shims. You have the concept correct about adding them. Somewhere along the line somebody did the math and figured out exactly how much camber was added or taken away with each shim (each shim is /2/3/4 mm depending on what you have now stacked up.

I'm going to bet that your tires will rub more.


B

Right now I aint got no rub.. I dont think I have any shims in right now.. maybe one

Andrew

You will need to take shims with you when you go to the alignment place (I promise they wont have them) I pull eveything I own out shim wise when me align a car so I have an assortment with me.

The new ones that Engman sells in the vendors area is the hot ticket. Nice new clean ones.


B

Hmmmm, so the rears will go negative when lowered huh? Since Blondie has an issue with rubbing because of the chassis stiffening it....I will have to to put on another 1/4 inch spacer.

What is the minimum number of turns that are recommended on studs to hold a Fuchs on safely? I have that inforation in a race manual somewheres.......in a pile....if I could remember where the pile was.....

Oh yeah...adding shims make it go positive right?

I might get some of those.. I sold some of mine to Scott because he was in need of them. I might see if Jim has any, if not I guess I could spring for some new one's..

Oh and heres what the flare has space wise, My fuch's that I run have about an inch more room than these gotties.. loadsa room..

Math!?! It's easier to just have the car re-aligned after raising/lowering. 'Specially since it has to be done anyway.

Nice job on the flare Andrew.

Thanks, I will be having the car profesionally aligned when I get done with lowering it and stuff..

I have a set of the spacers Brad was talking about, I'll sell 'em for 5 bucks plus shipping.

Those spacers are actually for the Koni's. The Bils have the grooves in the shock body.


B

Thanks for posting this question Andrew. Thanks for all these answers too, guys. I figured I'd need to do something in the way of alignment after getting the Bils but had no idea of why.
Now this IS the real reason this site is so gud

...........b

From the PCA "Wheel bolt/lug nut engagement must be at least one times the bolt/stud diameter. This is nine turns on a Porsche set-up."

Dan, (not Andrew, (but it's my computer))

Ah soo... I was wondering what they were for... just assumed... oh well.