Car is a 944

Infinity Kappa 4x6 in the doors.
Infinity Kappa 6x9 in the rear hatch area

Amp is an Infinity 50x4 + 1x150

Question is as follows. Would there be any point in putting a single 8" sub in the car to get some more bass or will the Kappa's produce just as much as the 8" therefore negating it? I've had 10's and 12's before, always as a pair, but never 8's much less a single. I DO NOT want a ghetto boomer at all. Just a VERY nice full system.

Thanks

Why 8"? use a single 10" in a sealed enclosure. That will fill out your system with tight full bass, no boom.

Scott,
It will make a difference! In the right enclosure you could make that 8" sound like a 16". So since it sounds like you just want to add some "lows" and you don't seem like the type who wants to pump out base notes from Public Enemy it will make a difference with whatever you listen to. If your head unit allows you to control trebble and base like most do you will be able to adjust the sound to your liking.

Simply trying to save space in a small car. I felt like an 8 might fill out sound wise without killing my space I was actually thnking an inclosure for a8 would fit on the floor behind the passenger seat.

Love their amps. 8 years on mine so far.

10"DVC Bazooka Tube. I have a hatch back and there is plenty of bass with 400 watts RMS at 2 ohms. Make sure you reduce the ohm value on the amp to 2 (jumper). Add a "cap" to keep the lights bright.

Jason posted this over on NARP today.

These guys could probably help you out

I have two Quart 8's in my car they fill it out good.

"Yo Cracka! Whasup?"

JL audio makes 6.5" subs that can fit in a very small box. Never heard them but everything else JL makes is great so the 6.5s should be too.

Here are some shots of my install.

I had infinity kappas in my protege. the same ones you're talking about. the problem with those speakers is that they are meant to be used with a sub because the main woofers have a filter that cuts the bass off. i took out the crossovers that come with those speakers and whoopie! bass! you have to run a bass blocker to the tweeter, but it's really worth it. it feels like a marketing trick to me the way they set up those speakers.

So, not only does your car have that killer motor, but a killer stereo too, wow.
Did you do the stainless mixing bowl trick for the 8" in the back-pad?

Back on-topic, I'd think a nice box with the right amp for an 8" would work just fine, since it's a hatch and not an enclosed trunk.

Mixing bowls yes, the Subs are meant for sealed enclosures and are very efficient to drive they dont require much power. View of enclosure on firewall.

My setup:

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=59699&

It sounds great and isn't too intrusive.

A sealed 8" would work fine. I used to have a 944 and i had a sealed 10" and it was more than enough. Actaully have thought about replacing the 10" in my 968 with an 8"

Thanks for the input guys. Well most of the input I guess I'll be going ahead with the 8". I used to do a fair amount of car stereo stuff "back in the day" but it has changed SOOOOO much since then I almost feel lost now My first bug ( Baja) had a box I built with 2- 12's in it. Rockford Fosgate punch 75 amp and it would shake your freekin eyeballs Dropped back to 2 -10's, the 12's are now in my Suburban. But as I get older I want less noise and more balance so 8 it is

I know that Polk audio has a 8" sub that has really good sound. I used to run thier 10s" and thier 8s" are just as good and a littel more crisp.

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=23

Check this.

The driver you linked to will work. Although it isn't a really efficient driver at 82db at 1 watt, 1 meter. But thats Ok for this scenario.
The VAS is about a 1/3 of a cubic foot. NOT including driver space of 0.019 CF.

So you would need a sealed enclosure of about 65 - 75 cubic inches of space if ya wanted the driver to go reasonably low. Bout 43hz at a 3db down point.
Thats an internal dimension sans the thickness of the enclosure itself.

The smaller you make the enclosure. The HIGHER the base starts. (In Hz)

The bigger you can make the enclosure. (Within the parameters of the driver)
The LOWER the driver will go. This holds true for all enclosures to a degree.

If you run a properly ported enclosure in the same sized "BOX" as a sealed enclosure. The ported driver will go lower. Then when it hits it's physical and electrical threshold of efficiency. The ported driver will distort before the sealed enclosure will. (With rare exception)

And ya got no room for a real ported enclosure anywhere except the center console area. Also ports WITHIN the enclosure take up room ya need for the proper sizing of the driver. if ya had anything other than a teener or FIAT X/19.

This would be a cake walk. I see two different scenarios that work. Either use the center console like Morphin Spectre sells here on the this site. OR the Salad bowl method. Unless ya want to cut up the car even more than the salad bowl setup....

Ya might want to call up JL audio AFTER you figure out how to build the biggest enclosure you can and still fit within the parameters of your cosmetics and mechanics. They will then tell you what works. As JL makes at least another 100 different speakers that aren't listed on their web site.

Start with a KNOWN enclosure size (Internal enclosure dimension measured in cubic inches).. THEN ORDER THE DRIVER...!!!!!!!!

In that way you will achieve a better result. period....

Ya know why..??????

Would you ever order a cam before you knew how much your heads flowed...?????
NOPE... Cause you will always order the wrong cam. Period end of story.
At best. you would achieve mediocrity. And excellence cost NO MORE MONEY. Just cost ya some time and learning curve. dats all folks...

With the amp you listed. I would order the 4 ohm version of that driver.
Part# 6W04

I would NOT run the sub woofer section of the amp in bridged mode if you like to crank it up. But you can try it. The bridged mode will get you about 3db more speaker output if the amp doesn't cut out. (that doesn't hurt the amp by the way) If it cuts out... Just move the bridge switch to the unbridged mode... SIMPLE.

And I hope your head unit has a separate sub woofer control. Cause it is MUCH easier to tweak your head unit than getting out of the car and turning the sub woofer section of your amp up and down to feed your need for more or less sub base.

Your Base / Treble controls were NEVER made to accurately adjust a subwoofer. That just fucks up your symmetry and sound stage if you do it that way.

By da way. What head unit ya gunna run with this setup...??????

Then again.. I don't know much about this stuff....

Clayton

Yo cracka.....that is phunny sheet.

There is a 5 inch woofer that absolutely rocks. A pair of these in 2 small salad bowls would be sweet. Not too loud... Just about right for me.

Google "Focal Utopia Be 13 WS"

Just thought ya might want to see what else is out there as far as little subs.
SEAS also makes a KILLER 5 inch as well as other larger subs. They work gud in pairs or quads when ya just have NO ROOM to play with. Just another sick ass option.

C

Excellent post and some nice cars with awesome stereos in them. I was just thinking about this too. I am starting to get my 914 on the road again and the last system I had installed was stolen and am searching for some ideas too. I like what others have done. I definetly want some speakers in the doors and the stock kicker panels and a woofer some place where it won't get in the way too much. Cheers

Clayton thanks for your response. Great info for someone looking to incease bass in a 914 BUT you missed something important in my original post bro







































This is for a .............................944 ...........................

hey, I have a pair of door speakers for sale if your interested, check the classifieds

-JON

Scotty..

I R a tard......

Crayton

It am ohkaye. U stil guud gie.

This works great and is cheap !

http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores...p;storeId=10151