74 with FI 2.0, can not get idle down (from 1200 +) . adjustment screw turned all the way in. with a complete turn or a bit more the other way, it will go up. is this a case of worn out needle valve/carb. any help really appreciated.
also any suggestions on a local mechanic in oregon city, oregon area also appreciated.
many thanks.
Full Version: high idle
IS this after the car is warmed up?
If so there is a vac leak somewhere. check all the hoses.
Any mainetenece done lately?
If so there is a vac leak somewhere. check all the hoses.
Any mainetenece done lately?
[quote name='lonnie152' date='Dec 25 2007, 01:24 PM' post='980094']
74 with FI 2.0, can not get idle down (from 1200 +) . adjustment screw turned all the way in. with a complete turn or a bit more the other way, it will go up. is this a case of worn out needle valve/carb. any help really appreciated.
also any suggestions on a local mechanic in oregon city, oregon area also appreciated.
many thanks.
[/quote
It sure sounds like a vacuum leak. Try putting pipe thread sealer tape around the threads of the screw. AA sells a kit for the vacuum lines. Many methods for finding leaks. Although, 1200 is not bad. I remember 2000 for my vaccum leaks...
74 with FI 2.0, can not get idle down (from 1200 +) . adjustment screw turned all the way in. with a complete turn or a bit more the other way, it will go up. is this a case of worn out needle valve/carb. any help really appreciated.
also any suggestions on a local mechanic in oregon city, oregon area also appreciated.
many thanks.
[/quote
It sure sounds like a vacuum leak. Try putting pipe thread sealer tape around the threads of the screw. AA sells a kit for the vacuum lines. Many methods for finding leaks. Although, 1200 is not bad. I remember 2000 for my vaccum leaks...
could also be your throttle valve not seating properly.
did you recently mess with your throttle linkage adjustment?
did you recently mess with your throttle linkage adjustment?
Check the complete throttle linkage (cable, pedal, bell crank bushings) the throttle body, and the return spring to make sure it's all coming back to the correct idle position.
As stated above, vacuum leaks could also be a reason.
You can use a timing light to check the advance mechanism is advancing and returning from advance properly, as it may be sticking.
As stated above, vacuum leaks could also be a reason.
You can use a timing light to check the advance mechanism is advancing and returning from advance properly, as it may be sticking.
gentelmen-want to thank you all for your suggestions and i will following up on many of them tomorrow morn.
the car is new to me by a month or so, however a recent tune up has been done and it is a nice car with 87K miles. i am aware the car sat for many years and the previous owner did a lot of fix up. the motor runs strong (150 in all cylinders) , no smoke or leaks.
just installed complete msd system (box, coil and wires) and while it definately runs smoother, the high idle is definately not right and so needs to be fixed.
if anything else comes to mind pls let me know.
the car is new to me by a month or so, however a recent tune up has been done and it is a nice car with 87K miles. i am aware the car sat for many years and the previous owner did a lot of fix up. the motor runs strong (150 in all cylinders) , no smoke or leaks.
just installed complete msd system (box, coil and wires) and while it definately runs smoother, the high idle is definately not right and so needs to be fixed.
if anything else comes to mind pls let me know.
Could be a bad AAR, or the AAR is unplugged. If it is unplugged, it could idle high for quite some time, if it running in a colder climate.
QUOTE(lonnie152 @ Dec 25 2007, 07:41 PM) 
gentelmen-want to thank you all for your suggestions and i will following up on many of them tomorrow morn.
the car is new to me by a month or so, however a recent tune up has been done and it is a nice car with 87K miles. i am aware the car sat for many years and the previous owner did a lot of fix up. the motor runs strong (150 in all cylinders) , no smoke or leaks.
just installed complete msd system (box, coil and wires) and while it definately runs smoother, the high idle is definately not right and so needs to be fixed.
if anything else comes to mind pls let me know.
Did you have to remove the dizzy for the conversion? maybe there is a vac line that didn't get reconnected.
spent morning installing IMI high torque starter and love the results, a big difference.
checked for vacume leaks with no luck. over next day or some will check vacume advance and will do some research on aar.
going after alternator, heat exchangers and muffler tomorrow.
ps. cleaned and reconnected grounding straps, battery, etc. , yes it does really help. thx to all those who have mentioned it.
checked for vacume leaks with no luck. over next day or some will check vacume advance and will do some research on aar.
going after alternator, heat exchangers and muffler tomorrow.
ps. cleaned and reconnected grounding straps, battery, etc. , yes it does really help. thx to all those who have mentioned it.
this afternoon i spent chasing the removal of the alternator. i can now appreciate why there are tech articles on this daunting task. did not finsh however becasue the rebuilt bosche was not up to par (did not spin freely). tomorrow i will do it and then move on to the SSI heat exchangers and tiad exhaust (which i believe is the first dan has made for a 1.8 application).
wish i could figure out the idle problem... it's 35 degrees here and rig (opps sorry, showing my 4 x 4 distractions) car is hard to start.
ps. with abit of luck will install progressive springs in the back too.
wish i could figure out the idle problem... it's 35 degrees here and rig (opps sorry, showing my 4 x 4 distractions) car is hard to start.
ps. with abit of luck will install progressive springs in the back too.
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.