jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:47 AM
I welded on the AN bung fittings today. I used a AN-8 outlet and AN-6 return. The hole for the return (inside the tank) is about 1/4" so I drilled it out to 5/16". I made a cover to seal the top of the tank out of a large washer and filled the tank with water. I bent the lip near the outlets out of the way a bit.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:48 AM
Then I ground the AN bung fittings to fit the outlets better. Here's the unground AN-8 and the completed AN-6.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:49 AM
Pressed the wrong button.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:50 AM
Here's the completed fittings and the slightly ground down outlets.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:50 AM
Here they are set in place before welding.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:50 AM
After welding.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:52 AM
Other side. After this I capped the lines and let it sit for 8 hours. It didn't leak so I cleaned it up a bit, bent the lip back and painted it (except the sealing surface).
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 03:57 AM
Finished. Now to get the tank cleaned and coated on the inside.
nebreitling
Jan 5 2004, 11:33 AM
cool, this is helpful -- i was thinking of doing the same thing
how did you prepare/clean the tank before welding?
n
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 04:42 PM
My tank was a little rusty on the inside, so I just filled it with water before welding it. I am having it cleaned and refinished now that the welding is done. If my tank didn't need refinishing I probably would have tapped it 1/4 NPT. In fact, that would probably have been easier anyway.
Qarl
Jan 5 2004, 05:13 PM
Next time someone does this, just get an male to male connection (threaded on both ends) and grind of the threads on one side. The remaing part will fit in the hole nicely. The larger gitting may require more grinding.
aufaber
Jan 5 2004, 06:28 PM
Earl's Part number 967108 should be a -8 steel weld on AN fitting.
Chage the last number to a 6 for the -6.
That might be easier too.
jridder
Jan 5 2004, 06:46 PM
>Earl's Part number 967108 should be a -8 steel weld on AN fitting.
That's what I used. I originally planned on cutting off the existing fittings but decided that I wanted them extended a bit to make reaching them from under the car easier.
>Next time someone does this, just get an Female to Female connection (threaded on both ends) and grind of the threads on one side.
I assume you mean a male-male union. Earls lists a -6 in steel (962606) in their catalog, but not a -8.
Qarl
Jan 5 2004, 06:51 PM
Umm... yes... male to male... sorry
Brad Roberts
Jan 5 2004, 11:33 PM
Um.. has anyone checked to see if the tank fits in the hole with 90 degree fittings ATTACHED to the new fittings ?? I personally feel they will hang down too low and not allow the tank to sit properly or the fittings will hit the tub before the tank is set.
So far I only see people responding to this thread that dont have running cars with gas tanks in them.
I would have welded on 90degree fittings.. not straight.. now you have to change direction.
B
scotty
Jan 6 2004, 12:03 AM
I had -6 and -8 male fitting brazed onto the tubes as they came out of the tank -- really long! I then hooked up to them with 90 degree hose ends. It fit fine, but made it a pain to pull the tank because it hid the ends from my wrench. You do have to be careful putting the tank in to avoid a kink in the line -6/-8 hose isn't very flexible.
I've ditched those and gone with the "old" way (clamps and hose).
aufaber
Jan 6 2004, 11:33 AM
QUOTE(Brad Roberts @ Jan 5 2004, 09:33 PM)
Um.. has anyone checked to see if the tank fits in the hole with 90 degree fittings ATTACHED to the new fittings ?? I personally feel they will hang down too low and not allow the tank to sit properly or the fittings will hit the tub before the tank is set.
So far I only see people responding to this thread that dont have running cars with gas tanks in them.
I would have welded on 90degree fittings.. not straight.. now you have to change direction.
B
Hmm, well if the bungs were welded flush with the tank it would only add 1/4 inch or so to the height of the parts since you get a lot of the height back because one screws down over the other.
(My car runs and has a tank with gas in it, drove it last night
)
Eric_Shea
Jan 6 2004, 11:40 AM
QUOTE
So far I only see people responding to this thread that dont have running cars with gas tanks in them.
Brad... that would be everybody on this site with the exception of Mr. "I'm going to stay at home and finish my car because there's an inch of snow today D.D.S. Dave"!!!
jridder
Jan 6 2004, 07:54 PM
I checked the tank in the car and it looks like it will fit fine. If anything you'd want the fittings to hang down lower. I'm also replacing my fuel lines and the routing will be a bit different from stock.
The -8 supply will go forward to a pre-filter and pump in the front trunk. The supply line (3/8 aluminum hard line) will route to the left side of the trunk to connect to the pump outlet. The return line (also 3/8 alum hard line) will go to a 90 degree bulhead into the front trunk then to a -6 hose back to the fuel tank. I will be able to attach the flexible lines to the tank before it's installed and then pull the lines through holes (with grommets) into the front trunk.
I took my tank in today to be cleaned. I found a place in San Jose called J&J Radiator. They quoted a price of $85 to clean the inside and outside and repaint the exterior (the next lowest price was $125 and some people where quoting $200 and up). No interior coating though. It held up pretty well for 30 years so I figure it should be fine for a while longer. When I brought it there they gave me an even lower price ($65). I'll see in a couple of days how good of a job they do.
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