i WILL have the engine out tomorrow dammit!

is there a special tool i need to remove the CV axles or can i "borrow" it from AutoZone or somethin?

also, i have everything in the engine compartment disconnected and everything but the clutch cable, CV's, and the shift linkage disconnected underneath. I have the rear on ramps (should have more than enough clearance) and the front on stands

the pelican how-to does theres by lowering the car all the way down (almost to the rotors).. will i need to do this or can i put the floor jack underneath the tranny and lower slowly?

anything else to look out for?

I got my CV tool from Pelican. You can also get them at other German specialty shops. Not sure if you can find it at Autozone or similar. I've dropped my engine with the rear on jack stands, and also using Pelican's method. Personally, I prefer the Pelican method, but that's only because I was working alone. It's nice not to have to balance the engine and tranny on the jack, especially if you don't have a helper. However, the Pelican method requires two large jacks, instead of one.

To sum it up, no you don't need to drop the car down if you are using the "traditional" method and lowering the engine/tranny out from underneath a raised car.

Good luck, and have fun, just take it slowly and make sure that you've got everything unfastened. Make a list and check it twice. Don't forget the tranny to body ground.

what does the tool look like? and is there an alternative to the "correct" tool?

It's an 8mm 12-point (XZN) socket. Here's a picture from Pelican. I really don't think you want to use anything else. It would complicate things greatly if you stripped CV bolt.

Here's another that's cheaper than Pelican. CV Tool

I like this one better, as it has a longer shaft. The CV boot tends to get in the way when I use the Pelican tool.

They are sold at most parts stores. It's a 12 point or triple square tool. Sometimes they don't have the socket portion, but you can get the 12 point part, and use a hex socket on the end. They're out there.

We have an engine drop article here on the site. Click 914 Info up above and go to tech articles.

When you guys started talking about special tools to remove the CVs I was thinking but now I know what you're talking about, You should go get one of those to keep in your tool collection anyway.

Autozone has them, thats where I got mine.

I bought a set of the 12 point tools at my FLAPS. Just used the largest one the other day to remove the steering wheel on my A4. The one that fits the CV joint boots also fits in the 914 engine fan.

Better yet is to keep one in the CAR. Having your CV joint come loose while away from home is no fun. It's been known to happen.

For that matter, a 4mm allen wrench and a spare cone screw isn't a bad idea either.

The socket 12 point tool is a bit nicer but I never found one locally.
I had to order one online. Cost was about $3-4.
The Bug stores carry them.

If you are in a hurry, you can find a tool a PepBoys and AutoZone.

See these threads:
(The first one has an attached photo of the one I bought at AutoZone)
What sized tool?

CV Joint Tools

One tip, I'd mention is that if you get the version shown in my photo,
use some masking tape to hold it in the socket.

Also, if you haven't already done so. Spray the CV bolts with PB blaster and let
it soak for at least a day to loosen them up. PB blaster is the only thing I've
found that consistently works. WD-40 hasn't worked very well for me.

--- bill

Make sure you use new crush washers and possibly new bolts when you reinstall. Washers are designed as one time use.

got the tool at autozone and the engine is out!!! ill update my progress thread with pics here in a minute!

thanks for the all the help guys

greatly appreciated