UPDATE TO OLD THREAD:
Installed the ignition (pertronix...if you are thinking about doing this pull the dizzy out, I can't imagine doing it with it in the car) and timed it to the only timing mark on my 1.8
it's red...7.5 degrees BTDC????
anyway, timed it at 3500 rpm with the vacuum hose disconnected
In general, the engine runs quiter, hums along at highway speeds, the valves seem quiter, and it idles better as well.

However, in first gear it lags until the rpm's get up to 3000...definitive hesitation. It's cured by letting the clutch slip a little longer and really gassing it (clutch is on it's way out anyway).
Any ideas as to why?
thanks guys!


Hey,
I plan on putting the engine position into TDC, removing the dizzy switching out the points for a pertronix system and then replace it in the same position. I'll then use a timing light to re-time the engine (removing the vacuum hose). Will this be sufficient? I don't understand how to adjust the dwell nor do i have a gauge to do so.
Can anyone enlighten me on the subject of dwell and how it might be affected by doing the above procedure?
Thanks in advance.
Pete

Dwell is only for the time the points are open. Pertronix don't need dwell so just a timing light is sufficient. Do yourself a favor and remove the dizzy to install the Pertronix. Just remove the securing bolt on the case and remove the dizzy. Much easier to install on the workbench.

Reinstall the dizzy and time it.

Sweet, I update the thread with how it goes. I know a lot of people talk about doing this.
Thanks

Be sure to keep the points and condenser you remove. Put 'em in a bag in the glovebox. You're gonna need 'em when the Pertronix fails out on the road somewhere ......... The Cap'n

cap'n put everything in a bag in the trunk just in case....

Bet ya a buck your timing is off.

C

What dizzy do you have?

C

I believe it's the stock 009. I'm confused about the proper timing setting. I only have the red mark (factory) and a white mark for tdc that looks to have been placed there by the previous owner (i used that mark for valve adjustment). the haynes doesn't say anything about timing a 1.8L which is frustrating so I used the method for the 1.7L...this could also be the problem.
The car has been switched to a single-carb set-up

If you have switched to a 32/26 single carb and there is hesitation then you need a bigger idle jet. These carbs usually come with a set up for a 1600CC VW . I can't remember the jet size but I bought a couple of drills to enlarge the jet .

28 degrees Btdc. at 3200 RPM. it's the drivers side 1/3 of the fat impellor web.

and then get a bigger jet.

I'm no expert, but doesn't a 1.8 get timed at idle (here)? My Haynes manual indicates that dynamic timing is set at an rpm of 800-900 (page 64).

Your problem is that you have an 009 distributor. Which is made for a Type I engine. NOT a type IV like yours.
It doesn't have enough advance and the curve starts too late. Thats why you can't get it to time right at 3.4K plus RPM irrelevent if you have a 1.7 or 1.8 or 2.0.
By the time you get your timing perceptually correct. Your idle through midrange timing is off a ton in the comparitive analysis to a stock dizzy.
You will Not get proper timing in relationship to your advance curve with that dizzy. Flat fucking period.

I suggest you either get a stock Type IV distributor or a mallory Unilite.

You will be amazed how much easier it is to tune with the proper dizzy. And your performance and head temps will be MUCH better.

Note: You may have wondered why I asked what dizzy you had in my second response.
It is because dam near every time someone is having a tuning issue that never seems to get sorted out.
The problem engine has a 009 that some guy sold the 914 owner as an upgrade.
IT ISN'T an upgrade by the way.

They can be made to work if you have a distributor machine handy and like pulling dizzys apart to tweak them.
Even then.. An 009 is not a robust dizzy as out bone stock type IV units. With or without vacuum advance.

Note 2: I hate 009s like a you wouldn't believe. They are the bane of my existence. Cause ya CAN'T tune around em for shit.

The 009 may not be all of your problem. But I gaurantee it is part of the problem.

Cheers,

Clayton

Wow. I was thinking he same thing. I even noticed my heat was working better which suggests to me that the engine is running hotter now Again the only thing I changed was the points syst@em. I should have checked to see what the engine was timed to before I switched it out. I'm considering a centrifugal advance ditributor. Car was running fine before I did this. If it ain't broke don't fix it!!

http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/ignition.htm

mentions the .009's.... LOL

Dammm Clayton that was good